TYT494H Lowering ROPS

[jima60]

I'm trying to figure out how to lower the ROPS bar on my 494 so I can pull it into a garage. I haven't found any instructions on how to lower it. Can someone give me some guidance?

 

[ptsg]

Doesn't it have some pins that you remove and let it pivot down? Most are that way.

 

[jima60]

I has pins but no pivot point. See Pic

Its almost like you have to lift the whole bar off.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Ok, I don't have an open station myself, but looking at your pic, isn't one of those pins on each side the latching pin and the other pin on each side the "pivot" pin?

 

[ptsg]

I has pins but no pivot point. See Pic

Its almost like you have to lift the whole bar off.

The bottom pins will let it pivot backwards, while the top pins are meant to lock it in place. Looks like you can also lock it at about 45 degree position.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

The bottom pins will let it pivot backwards, while the top pins are meant to lock it in place. Looks like you can also lock it at about 45 degree position.

Yeap.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

Odd setup. This is the 4820 ROPS. It has a large pivot bolt. And one removable pin.

 

[halfBaked2024]

Reviving this post… top and bottom pins are trapped and cannot be removed without removing the light bar plates. Unless I had too many beers today?

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

Holy cow. They need the Kukje engineers.

 

[5030]

..... Or Kubota engineers, both my open station and my F20 diesel mower have foldable ROPS.

Think I'd relocate the light bar brackets and call it good.

Of course I don't have the garage issue anyway. I keep mine in a barn with a 14 foot overhead door.

 

[halfBaked2024]

..... Or Kubota engineers, both my open station and my F20 diesel mower have foldable ROPS.

Think I'd relocate the light bar brackets and call it good.

Of course I don't have the garage issue anyway. I keep mine in a barn with a 14 foot overhead door.

TYM’s drawings showed it being foldable near the top. ASS-U-ME demons got me again, but four bolts later… no big. Saw this post and the comments and thought I should highlight this design flaw for the OP’s sake since there seemed to be a misunderstanding in the commentary.

I was mentally working on a relocation bracket design that would expose the heads of those pins, but tbh, I think I’m going to lose the lights at that location altogether - my tractor will never see public road ingress/egress and Ill just put the AUX forward and reverse illumination lights elsewhere.

I got the tractor to build the pad for the shop it will call home (sounds kind of like a nursery rhyme ), but was hoping to keep it protected during that process and the only place I have right now is a smaller shop with a lower entrance header. I looked at a “portable” garage structure, but they’re $400 - $800 and I’d rather have money go toward the permanent bigger shop. I believe with today’s Biden/Harris economy, that amount money could get me a couple 2x6s for the concrete form work.

 

[5030]

I bought one of those Harbor Freight covered shelters for storing my 'toys' in and while the build instructions are somewhat cryptic, I've had it for 3 Michigan Winters now and it's still like new.

 

[ptsg]

Reviving this post… top and bottom pins are trapped and cannot be removed without removing the light bar plates. Unless I had too many beers today?
View attachment 1631827

Time to take the light bracket off, flip the pins around and bolt the light bracket back on. Replace the lynch pins with the hairstyle cotter pin so you can pull it out and put it back in. Or even put a zip tip on the cotter pin so you have a "tail" to pull it out easier. Looks like a very tight place to sneak fingers in.

Since the tractors come in "crates", the ROPS is put on the tractor at the importer or at the dealers. One would imagine they would've figured this out by now.

 

[halfBaked2024]

I bought one of those Harbor Freight covered shelters for storing my 'toys' in and while the build instructions are somewhat cryptic, I've had it for 3 Michigan Winters now and it's still like new.

Thanks for recommendation… I might do this as a last resort. I basically have six weeks to get good enough at grading to level out a 20x35 area. I know additives are amazing these days, but the way I learned it, anything you add to tamper with the curing rate ultimately weakens concrete. Subsequently, I don’t pour concrete in Winter.

 

[halfBaked2024]

Time to take the light bracket off, flip the pins around and bolt the light bracket back on. Replace the lynch pins with the hairstyle cotter pin so you can pull it out and put it back in. Or even put a zip tip on the cotter pin so you have a "tail" to pull it out easier. Looks like a very tight place to sneak fingers in.

Since the tractors come in "crates", the ROPS is put on the tractor at the importer or at the dealers. One would imagine they would've figured this out by now.

View attachment 1640450

Great idea and telling picture! I was first reading your post and was going to jump in and say it’s too tight of a space for the flip spring clips, but those bobby-pin style clips might work! Easy peezy.

I can see this is an engineering design afterthought - in South Korea, some engineer is saying “WTF these wide eyes want lights and speakers on the sides?”

I was going to take another look and see if I could drill some 5/8” peek-a-boo holes in the side of the bracket to pull those pins through.

For this sunny day ahead, I’m just going to pull them off and get that ROPS back up, but looks like I have my first tractor project tonight.

 

[ptsg]

Great idea and telling picture! I was first reading your post and was going to jump in and say it’s too tight of a space for the flip spring clips, but those bobby-pin style clips might work! Easy peezy.

I can see this is an engineering design afterthought - in South Korea, some engineer is saying “WTF these wide eyes want lights and speakers on the sides?”

I was going to take another look and see if I could drill some 5/8” peek-a-boo holes in the side of the bracket to pull those pins through.

For this sunny day ahead, I’m just going to pull them off and get that ROPS back up, but looks like I have my first tractor project tonight.

To be fair, that bracket with the lights and speaker (?) seems to be an extra just for the NA market. Most likely assembled once the tractor arrived in the US. I even wonder if those are made in South Korea or in the USA.

The ones here in Europe don't have those. Probably a good thing too. Those things wouldn't have lasted long at all working around trees.

 

[halfBaked2024]

To be fair, that bracket with the lights and speaker (?) seems to be an extra just for the NA market. Most likely assembled once the tractor arrived in the US. I even wonder if those are made in South Korea or in the USA.

The ones here in Europe don't have those. Probably a good thing too. Those things wouldn't have lasted long at all working around trees.

Definitely an afterthought. I’m betting US dealers are required to put all that DOT stuff on every tractor. Problem is when it interferes with basic functionality.

And I can see some desk-bound US DOT administrator saying, “So what? Why would you ever need to move a tractor with the ROPS folded down?”

Dude, we have woods with trees and parking clearance heights to obey.