Installing a 12” strike plate for security

   / Installing a 12” strike plate for security #51  
You might want something that secures your door to the floor, and not just the jamb. Useful when someone is home, as they can't be used when no one is home.

Saw a movie a long time ago, "Burglar" staring Whoopie Goldberg. She had some sort of bar that "locked" in place into the floor. I've never been able to find it available online.
German Shepherd or Rottweiler are both GREAT dogs (I've had both). The "in floor" device is a great idea. I did the DIY "reinforce the heck out of the door jams" when I was in Illinois. Shooting a burglar will get you/her in loads of legal issues!

I have a loaded 12 ga (turkey loads - 00 buck has a real small pattern) and 9mm at hand, but they're not really needed out here in rural Iowa (Chicago/Illinois carryover habit). Dogs are wonderful.
 
   / Installing a 12” strike plate for security #52  
I suggested practice using a handgun.
I do think, for my wife, a shotgun is a better choice. Still need practice, but don't have to be as accurate. Also, handguns can penetrate from room to room etc. I know a shotgun will make mincemeat out of sheetrock, but less penetration.
 
   / Installing a 12” strike plate for security #53  
I know a shotgun will make mincemeat out of sheetrock, but less penetration.

For the doubters, I would suggest shooting birdshot and 00 Buck at scrap sheetrock to dispel a lot of myths and false information out there on the "error'net". Also, lead versus copper or nickel buckshot makes a difference in penetration and breaking bones. If in doubt, talk to someone who has killed deer with a shotgun about the effectiveness of copper/nickel buckshot versus pure lead buckshot.

Also, please pattern your shotgun at household distances if you are using one for self-defense. There are a lot of myths out there about the patterning of a shotgun at close range.

For what it is worth, my best patterns were with an Improved Cylinder 12 gauge when using Buckshot with fewer "flyers" than with a smooth bore or other choke options. Modified was the second best pattern for me. Whether this holds true with your shotgun and ammunition can only be determined by you at the shotgun range.
 
   / Installing a 12” strike plate for security #54  
I prefer #4 buck, in my 2 3/4 12 gauge that get's 27 .22 balls going down range with each round.
I switched to that decades ago after having coyotes run through 00 buck with just a yelp and limp at times, after the switch none ran away.
 
   / Installing a 12” strike plate for security #55  
In Canada our houses are pretty solid because of our winters. I remember hearing that in many warmer places you can cut your way through a wall with a box cutter knife and not bother with the door.

My buddy bought a house a few years ago. He wanted to re-side it with new vinyl siding. When we tore the old siding off, there was no plywood on the exterior walls except for the corners. The rest was 1/2” foam. Needless to say, we replaced the foam with plywood.
 
   / Installing a 12” strike plate for security #56  
My buddy bought a house a few years ago. He wanted to re-side it with new vinyl siding. When we tore the old siding off, there was no plywood on the exterior walls except for the corners. The rest was 1/2” foam. Needless to say, we replaced the foam with plywood.
I had a GF once that bought a townhouse built like that. rats would chew right through the vinyl siding and then it was easy chew through the sheetrock.
Thankfully it wasn't her place. But, she told me she saw this happening across the common area to another townhouse.
 
   / Installing a 12” strike plate for security #57  
I’d rather deter a thief rather than shoot or catch him. Dog or several VISIBLE big ugly Pelco cameras, working or not.
View attachment 919488
Oh look at this, a sign that says, cover my lens, come on in and use the bathroom for two hours. Bring all your friends.

:ROFLMAO:
 
   / Installing a 12” strike plate for security #58  
Don't forget aout the hinge screws. 'They' usually detect the reinforced lock side, then kick in the hinge side because they generally have 1" screws in them. Use screws long enough to penetrate beyond the double studs of the door frame.
Also install a double keyed deadbolt (keys) needed on both sides with the inside 1 usually kept in there. This prevents 'them' fron breaking door or side glass and reaching in to turn the bolt. Yes it can be a fire danger if the key is not there and you are trapped. so park the key nearby ad out of sight.

There are knob hangers that 'bark' like a mad dog when jostled. Also hang some or one bell from the top of the inside of each door so when it opens or is kicked, it rings a specific tone. Different tone for each door. And don't get shot by your wife if she doesn't recognize you coming in late at night. Who then is going to fix the wallboard ?
There are door lock sets that have a long dead bolt which unlocks when the inside handle is turned. You can't lock your self out and in case of emergency (fire) the panic response is to just turn the handle and forget the dead bolt and then everybody dies of smoke. If you disagree, ask your FD and see what they say.
I installed one on the two doors we commonly use to go in and out for that reason. Mine are 'Baldwin' brand and while expensive I think their worth it, 50 years ago these were $50 - $60 each, now $585 ea. ouch! still worth it though buy once cry once, or for the rest of my life.
 
   / Installing a 12” strike plate for security #59  
As a former contractor and hood rat... I'm sorry to say that with most construction practices in the last 50 years there isn't much you can do but slow them down. The frame is the issue, not the doors but what the door/jamb(doors are crap too) is mounted too. There are ways around this if you want to partially rebuild, putting in a steel frame with a drop in steel jamb but... what do you want to spend? You can also add a "glued" on mesh the entire length of the frame and jamb that will make it harder to break the wood, even an angle iron cap will help with that if mounted well. 3-1/2" screws can help to a point but most snap easy enough unless you are talking ledger locks or something of that type (not pretty but can be concealed) . Now the magnetic seals are great for keeping drafts out if installed properly but keep an eye on the sweep too. With modern day audio playback quality an motion activated dog snarl/bark might help. Wireless security is easily defeated as is wired. Even cell based, there are "jammers" readily available. All depends on the level of dumbass you are dealing with and how many of them there are. Some of the organized gangs are fairly tech competent. Guessing the police were notified?
Now, what I do isn't for many people so there is no use going into that.
 
   / Installing a 12” strike plate for security #60  
Forget the gun advice. Sounds good but look what happens when the cops do their job with a gun. They are indited. Besides, what would you do with the body? A big dog that barks is safer and better than a manslaughter charge. A neighbor has a picture by his door that says " Property protected by guard dog" and a recording that sounds like a dog barking that turns on automatically like a light sensor. Avoid the lawsuit.
 
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