Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

   / Let's talk flail mowers #7,911  
Not many have or want to learn the skill. I have tried to teach my SIL but he is impatient. As far as I know I am the last one around close that still can do it and have made several brazing repairs for my SIL's work place, to help him out, when they were told it was going to be months before replacement parts would be available. I actually enjoy brazing but hate to admit I am losing the ability due to nerve damage, hands that shake worse everyday makes holding things steady and hand eye coordination a REAL challenge.
Yeah, it is more likely to appear in someone's Hobby profile than their "day job" skills (-:

As I said, dirt bikers are a likely bunch.
They crack engine and gear cases when they go a' rock hopping.
Bash plates only do so much )-;
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #7,912  
Maybe so, but I don't think dirt bikes have many cast iron parts.....
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #7,913  
I have a Chinese flail mower from around 2008-2012. I think it was known as a Town sunny FL-150.

My drive belt side bearing seized onto the shaft over last winter. In the course of its removal, I broke the cast iron hearing flange/housing and am finding it impossible to find a replacement here in Ireland.

The bearing fits the 40mm rotor shaft and is 80mm o.d., housed in a 4-holed circular cast-iron housing that's 150mm in dia.

Does anyone have any information on a possible reference / part number that I could use to source a replacement?

T.I.A.
Would this one work?

or this one?
 
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   / Let's talk flail mowers #7,914  
Would this one work?

or this one?
That sort of thing is what I was suggesting in post #7909 for Tom in Ireland. It would seem like one of these two could be adapted to your flail by either welding or bolting it on. Shaft length/protrusion has to be considered too, but these look like a good find to me.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #7,915  
That sort of thing is what I was suggesting in post #7909 for Tom in Ireland. It would seem like one of these two could be adapted to your flail by either welding or bolting it on. Shaft length/protrusion has to be considered too, but these look like a good find to me.
I missed this and Louny’s post, musta got sidetracked with the thought of trying to braze the bearing housing :) my apologies to you both
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #7,916  
I missed this and Louny’s post, musta got sidetracked with the thought of trying to braze the bearing housing :) my apologies to you both
No reason to apologize! You found the 'right stuff.' Good work.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #7,917  
Hello I had a question on a rears mfg flail. I have managed to blow to bearings up in the course of 6 months and I have no idea why. I grease it everyday once a day in the morning as I use it during our busy season for mowing in between our orchard rows. When I pulled the first bearing out I found metal fragments but nothing was wrong with the bearing from what I could tell and so I replaced it and when I ran it again I blew the second one. I could really use the help thank you.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #7,918  
Flail mower bearings should always be replaced in pairs.
Metal fragments are always an indication of bearing failure.
I need to know which model rears flail mower, its cutting width,
whether you have hammer knives or side slicers and the year of
its manufacture.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #7,919  
Hello I had a question on a rears mfg flail. I have managed to blow to bearings up in the course of 6 months and I have no idea why. I grease it everyday once a day in the morning as I use it during our busy season for mowing in between our orchard rows. When I pulled the first bearing out I found metal fragments but nothing was wrong with the bearing from what I could tell and so I replaced it and when I ran it again I blew the second one. I could really use the help thank you.
First thing- use the recommended grease. Second thing- give it maybe one squirt per day. Don't overgrease. It'll push out the dust seals and help dust/crud get back in when they go back in place. Three- make sure it's in balance. Missing teeth are hard on bearings and the main mower frame. Four- Make sure you aren't winding grass, string, or whatever around the shaft next to the bearings. That'll cut the seals and cause premature failure.

That said, it's pretty rare to have two factory bearings go out in only 6 months. Tons of hours or only a couple of hundred? Cuttershaft bearing life should be measured in thousands of hours, not hundreds, unless one of the four above issues aren't happening. I wonder if they got a bad batch of bearings or maybe put some cheapos in? Possible improper installation if they've had staff turnover? Just guessing here though. I've never had a Rears though so I can't offer brand-specific experience. Some brands are a lot better surviving harsh use than others, but from what I've read Rears is a good brand.

p.s. One flail manufacturer recommended to me to NEVER grease cuttershaft bearings, but if they've been greased once to keep greasing them. They were getting thousands of hours on ungreased (factory grease only) bearings on their personal machines. They pulled the zerk and put in a plug. I've tried it and didn't magically increase my bearing life but I couldn't tell a difference between that method and normal greasing.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #7,920  
I'm a greaser of bearings and pivot pins. So far 3 or 4 yrs on the flail mower with no known problems.
Bestco 84" HD
 
 

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