GFCI Wiring Issue

[yooperdave]

Is there someone who can explain how to correct a GFCI outlet in a bathroom which was initially wired to ALSO remove power from the adjacent overhead light if tripped? Home inspector noted as a non-conformance and a safety issue. The overhead lights need to remain energized if the GFCI trips. TIA Yooper Dave

 

[not2old]

I built a new house in 1996 that I wired myself. The inspector allowed the GFCI to also remove power from the light as the switch was reachable while in the tub/shower. Otherwise, it would be behind the door

 

[34Willys]

On the back of the outlet, there should be a 'LINE' and a 'LOAD' connection point. The supply circuit from the panel is installed in the 'LINE' terminal. To continue power to the lamp not controlled by GFCI, attach lamp wires to other terminal of 'LINE', or double up if only one terminal is provided. The GFCI protects the outlet circuit and others that are connected to the 'LOAD' side only.
Hope this helps.
Patrick

 

[etpm]

On the back of the outlet, there should be a 'LINE' and a 'LOAD' connection point. The supply circuit from the panel is installed in the 'LINE' terminal. To continue power to the lamp not controlled by GFCI, attach lamp wires to other terminal of 'LINE', or double up if only one terminal is provided. The GFCI protects the outlet circuit and others that are connected to the 'LOAD' side only.
Hope this helps

I am holding a GFCI receptacle in my hand right now and looking at it so I can be accurate. It is a typical unit. In order to power a lamp that is not protected you will need to use a pigtail. This means you will need to connect the power wires to two other wires, such that wires go to the GFCI and the lamp. For example, if you are using wire nuts, the black power wire , another short black wire, and the black wire that goes to the lamp all need to be connected together in the wire nut. The short black wire should be connected to the LINE HOT screw terminal on the GFCI receptacle. The white wire, at least in the USA, should be connected to the LINE WHITE screw terminal on the GFCI. If my answer is confusing I am sure youtube has plenty of videos showing what I just wrote. Your problem is an easy one and I am sure you can wire it correctly.
Eric

 

[MossRoad]

If you get one like this, you won't need pigtails.
(click to enlarge)

 

[4570Man]

The back of the GFIC outlet should have stickers labeling the line and load side. Put both wires under the line side of the screw to avoid killing the lights. Or get a wire nut and a short piece of wire. Pigtails the 3 conductors together then put the jumper to the outlet. When I’m installing a GFIC I always install it not to protect the down stream wires unless that was the intended design. It saves a lot of dead outlet calls.

 

[hiddentacocatneddih]

Get an extension cord and run it from the light to a non gfci outlet in another room

 

[workinonit]

Just remember if you bypass the GFI if there is another receptacle downstream that needs to be protected you will have to add GFI(s) to those outlets.

 

[not2old]

Just remember if you bypass the GFI if there is another receptacle downstream that needs to be protected you will have to add GFI(s) to those outlets.

I've always used another GFI for each location as I've found it to be a pain in the butt to go search out the problem when an receptacle doesn't work.

 

[MAX-24-Dean]

Get an extension cord and run it from the light to a non gfci outlet in another room

Please don't.
The reason for the spacing of receptacles in the NEC is to eliminate extension cords in residential applications. Extension cords at one time where a fair percentage of the cause of fires and people getting shocked.