Are diesel conditioners needed for new

[Hay Dude]

I more worried about todays fuels than additives.
Biodiesel is junk and out fuel is too dirty.
Dealers/pump shops busier than ever with todays HP fuel systems and sophisticated injectors.

I ran ATF through my 24 year old 8.3L Cummins and the pump surging stopped. Cost me $24.

 

[cba]

Are any diesel fuel conditioners needed or would be good to use on Subcompact tractors, about 21 hp. Mines new LS122 and mostly sits. It works a few hours a week? Tks

The new low sulfur diesel fuel lacks lubricity. Sulfur was a good lubricant. Older diesel engines were never designed to run on today's low sulfur fuel (that is engines designed early 2000 or before). Hence it is a good idea to add the lubricity back to our diesel fuel for older engines. This can be done by adding a small amount of two stroke oil, at a rate of about 1:200 to 1:300. The very cheapest mineral oil based two stroke oil is perfect for this purpose, no need to spend money on expensive synthetic two stroke oil or even more expensive additives. It only has to lubricate the pump and injectors, nothing else. And it should burn just like diesel fuel does, without adding any extra carbon residue (as it does in two stroke gas engines).

If your engine is a modern design, say designed (not manufactured) after about 2005, it should be designed to run perfectly fine on low sulfur diesel, and the pump may be separately lubricated by engine oil, not just by the fuel itself. It does not need any extra lubricity additives whatsoever.

Now, my tractor drives less than the car. It only does about 60h a year. And I store it's diesel in a dozen jerrycans, enough for about one year. So I also add some diesel stabilizer to keep it fresh and avoid bacteria growth. I use the same treatment that the petrol companies already add to diesel, they just use it in smaller quantities as fuel it is intended to be used right away, not stored for a year as I do. It's called Pri-D fuel stabilizer, and sold by Amazon.

Warning: in the old days, people used to add gas (we call it petrol in Australia, its what goes in normal cars that do not have diesel engine) to diesel in winter to prevent it galling in the cold. That is a very bad idea today, as some gas (aka petrol in AU) nowdays contains ethanol, and you can never be 100% sure if it does or not no matter what the label at the pump station says. Ethanol absorbs water from the air and keeps it in solution instead of separating it out at the bottom of the fuel filter, and you end up with rust inside the old style (not common rail) diesel injectors and pumps that are made of plain steel.

 

[Mot]

Are any diesel fuel conditioners needed or would be good to use on Subcompact tractors, about 21 hp. Mines new LS122 and mostly sits. It works a few hours a week? Tks

I will tell of my experience... I had a B6200 set idle for a few years. The diesel in the tank turned to a black tar-like substance. Nothing that I have found so far will dissolve it. Not gasoline, not toulene, not alcohol, not lacquer thinner. Luckily the fuel filter did stop it before it went farther. I wound up replacing all hoses and I used a small tank from a lawn tractor. I am still using that setup. The main tank is still useless. Anyone have suggestions on how to proceed to clean the mess out of the tank?

 

[Chris In Gallupville]

Upstate NY guy here weighing in. Anti gel additive helped me. Few summers ago I had bought 3 or 4 5-gallon cans of diesel and by the time I got to the last can, the temps had gone waaaayyy down. That can of fuel was basically solid. I thought of what a mess it would have been if it had solidified in the tractor tank. (Warmed the fuel up in my shop, added anti-gel and was good to go.). I change fuel filters often but I still worry about condensed water b/c the tractor often just sits for days (or weeks) at a time and with normal temp fluctuations, condensation occurs and the idle time means the fuel isn’t sloshing around so the water’s there and drip, drip….you know how it goes. The Bio-cide sounds like a good idea, too.

 

[Paystar]

I'm lucky here in northern Ontario. We have really good fuel quality. I buy from Petro Canada, and Shell and have never ever had a fuel or gasoline issue.
The fuels are treated right at the tank farms.

 

[Paystar]

The one thing I am religious about though is I always leave my tanks full. If I use a tractor or the RTV I fill the tank before I park for the night.

 

[Bob64]

Are any diesel fuel conditioners needed or would be good to use on Subcompact tractors, about 21 hp. Mines new LS122 and mostly sits. It works a few hours a week? Tks

Depends how cold it gets in the winter where you live. I'm in Vermont where it frequently gets below 10 above zero and frequently below zero in the winter. I definitely do not want gelling of the fuel so definitely use a diesel fuel conditioner. As for addition lubrication or whatever I don't know but it would take a very good reliable chemist to give you an honest answer because a salesperson will tell you whatever it takes to make a sale. Good luck with that.

 

[Robert walker]

I have had two instances. My kubota L3400 quit on me while mowing pastures. After a few seconds it would fire right up. Run a minute or two and die again. I pulled the fuel one off the tank and fuel was trickling. Poked a zip tie in it and it started pouring out. Took tank off and there were several black globs of gelled up stuff that were clogging the outlet on tank. Last winter my truck, 2012 Ram 2500 would would fire and die. It was 10 degrees here in east Texas For a few days. I won’t go through that again. The anti-gel stuff works. As for the truck, when it warmed up it fired right up, luckily i didnt have to have it.

 

[strykerAKAmack]

I run Lucas Oil 10013 injector and fuel conditioner in all my diesel rigs along with Sta-bil Diesel all year round .
For my on road vehicles I use the small sta bil bottles that have the measuring cup built in So whrn I fuel up
its ez to add correct amount to tank .

 

[ruffdog]

I will tell of my experience... I had a B6200 set idle for a few years. The diesel in the tank turned to a black tar-like substance. Nothing that I have found so far will dissolve it. Not gasoline, not toulene, not alcohol, not lacquer thinner. Luckily the fuel filter did stop it before it went farther. I wound up replacing all hoses and I used a small tank from a lawn tractor. I am still using that setup. The main tank is still useless. Anyone have suggestions on how to proceed to clean the mess out of the tank?

Search asphatenes in diesel fuel

asphaltenes in diesel fuel - Google Search

 

[John0829]

The one thing I am religious about though is I always leave my tanks full. If I use a tractor or the RTV I fill the tank before I park for the night.

I do the same for all powered equipment diesel or gas. It only takes a few minutes to top off the tank to prevent hours of headache from fuel issues. Plus when you start work there is no concern about do I have enough fuel or not, just saddle up and go.

 

[sequoyah101]

Just like about anything these days you'll get a lot of answers but in this case there are only two options; treat or not but then with what?

If you store fuel for very long the treatments are probably more indicated. As for boosters and cleaners and such I don't use them. My son has an older high mileage Dodge and he thinks one of the better treatments gives better mileage and has cleaned his injectors. You look long enough and you'll find the support you want for about anything.

Water dryers, maybe but I have yet to find free water from my 500 gallon tank in years and I drain the filter each time I fill a machine. However, I know there is some water present as the filter has developed pin holes before I replaced it. If you get a dryer you usually get a booster of some sort.

Last, if you store fuel any length of time the one additive I would not fail to use is a bactericide. One tank of fuel, one bottle of bactericide. One bad experience with the little black bugs will make you a believer in prevention.

The bugs are the result of the ultra low sulfur diesel I think because I never even heard of them before. If you buy bulk you can ask for the fuel to be treated but it is not normally. Bugs seem to get worse in steel tanks with little bits of water in the bottom. I guess the rust and the interface of diesel and water make a great petri dsh.

A friend with a construction company and large ranch got bugs right after I did and it nearly shut him down. The clog everything. Just hope you can keep them on the tank side of all the filters.

 

[Shady oak]

No.

 

[rocco611]

I managed a motor pool , we had two 1000hp generators with 10,000 gallon diesel fuel tanks. the generators ran 15 minutes a month for generator testing. The fuel in the tanks was already ten years old when I got the job. After having problems with algae, condensation, etc, We contracted with a fuel specialist He came out , tested the fuel and put in additives, from 55 gallon drums. He tested the fuel, put additives as needed once a month per the contract. no more fuel problems with the generators after that. Diesel trucks ,buses, firetrucks, tractors that we had on site, never got any fuel additives, but we never had any fuel related issues with them. it would have cost a fortune to treat all the diesel we went through in a month. When I was a Dodge drivability tech, the only diesel fuel related issue I saw was Bosch fuel injection pump failures on a Dodge diesel truck. The customer was a crop duster, he was fueling his truck with the jet fuel he used for his helicopter. I can see using additives if it gives one peace of mind and the cost of the additives doesnt exceed anticipated related repair costs. I use the Diesel Kleen from power services in my Kubota, though its probably not necessary. I only go through about 20 gallons of diesel a year.

 

[sequoyah101]

It seems the truck stops are more prone to running a little bio diesel around and I hate the stuff. It truly is a box of chocolates.

I buy offroad red diesel for the equipment. It was still the good old higher sulfur diesel and you didn't expose to lubricity problems. I agree with some, a little oil in the fuel never hurt a thing. Used ATF is good for about anything. ATF has anti corrosion additives you don't get in other oils. I use it for cutting oil, way oil, corrosion inhibitor and a little in diesel.

 

[organ grinder]

I use Power Service year-round. More importantly, I use only #2 diesel, not bio-diesel from the local gas station. Experience is a good teacher, but she gives the test and then the lesson. I learned the hard way that bio-diesel gels when the temperature is not really that cold. #2 does not. It is worth driving out of my way to get the real thing.

 

[jrsavoie]

I would. It's not about how new the tractor/technology is, it's the fuel. Condensation naturally forms in fuel tanks, and any water in the fuel can lead to bacteria forming. When that bacteria coagulates instead of passing through, it will eventually affect the flow of fuel through the pick up, or the system. I treat our fuel tanks with a maintenance biocide.

What products do you use for biocide?

Especially important for a machine that sits frequently.
And for biodiesel.

I've been running B11 since the 1990's.

For some reason the new diesel doesn't seem to be as bio friendly.

Bio provides plenty of lube,
But seems a lot more bug and water friendly.

I also use biocides and whatever additive I find.
Schaefer's, Amsoil, Optilube, Hotshots, John Deere

I only add White Power Service when the temps get low.

 

[jrsavoie]

Something I wish I could get around here (Nova Scotia), nothing available. Guess the goobermint figures we're going to drink it LOL.

I always used to add straight gas - no alcohol 1-500 ratio.

But that was before we had a CP4 injection pump on the Ford.

Gasoline is a natural biocide

 

[jrsavoie]

Present day Ultra-Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD) has 3 common problems
1. Low lubricity
2. Gelling at low temps
3. Absorbs moisture from the air

Lubricity was lost when the sulfur content was reduced, some fuel pumps are more sensitive than others. The Bosch on VW's tended to scar and self destruct. If your pump needs more lubrication, use an additive.
Gelling is the nature of diesel at low temp. Easy solution is to not use when its cold out Easily done in Mississippi, not as easy in Vermont. Common additive was an addition of kerosene, basically a "lighter weight" diesel.
Absorbing moisture from the air can cause microbial contamination (algae). This can be minimized by keeping your tanks full, no room for "wet air". Addition of a biocide is also a remedy.
A decent additive will attack all 3 problems.

Can you recommend a good lubricity additive that's also a biocide?

 

[jrsavoie]

Like Forrest Gump would say, diesel fuel is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're gonna get. I bought brand name fuel at a big exit of the freeway last winter and tested it by putting some in a bottle and leaving it outside. That stuff was the worse I have seen as far as gelling and I was wondering about those trucks filling up.
That is why I always test some before I throw it in the equipment.

A good sized local truck stop, that's particular about their fuel got a bad load or 2 in.
I don't remember what happened, if bio was added instead of antigel or what, but there was gelled up trucks all over the place.
It cost them a lot of business and it wasn't even their fault.