FEL plow vs. rear blade for 1 mile of infrequent chipseal road snow removal

[agiardin]

I live at the end of a 1 mile private road, which is chip sealed. We get anywhere between 0-3 "problematic" storms per year, usually between 4-12" of snow at a time. This doesn't seem like a lot, but it's a nightmare every time. The road has some steep parts and camber to it, with deep ditches on the side, and folks with lesser vehicles or lesser judgement always get stuck. Sometimes very stuck. After a day, the snow turns into ice and then everyone gets stuck for days and days until it melts.

Last year was particularly bad, and I used my loader bucket to clear out the worst sections of the road where people were getting stuck. This was very time consuming, and not the right tool for the job. I had to scoop it up one bucket at a time and dump it over the edge of the road. I was unable to push it anywhere, because it all clumps together and often freezes onto the inside of the bucket. It would take me all day to do the whole road.

I'd like to set my L2501 up to be able to clear these occasional storms, and I'm torn between:

• 7' rear blade with adjustable angle. Replace metal cutting edge with polyurethane strip. Let the "tilt" link on the 3 point hitch float, either by removing the link entirely or adding hydraulic top/tilt and floating the tilt valve, so that it can follow the contour of the road. Easy to find a rear blade used for $500.
• 7' quick attach snowplow attachment for front end loader, with either hydraulic or manual angle adjustment (I do have the 3rd function hydraulics). Hard to find used around here, would likely buy new.

The rear blade is definitely a cheaper option, and I get to keep my loader bucket or grapple attached for other tasks. I'm worried though that by not having my backhoe or chipper on the rear of the tractor (both at least 1200lbs) I'll be losing a lot of ballast/traction. The rear blade also doesn't have the springs of a snow plow, to give it relief if I hit an obstacle. There aren't many potential obstacles on the road, but these things happen. I'm also a little skeptical of how well the tractor will steer when pushing snow with the loader. The front end of this tractor is not particularly heavy, and I've noticed that when I'm pushing things around with the loader (stumps, piles of dirt, big rocks) it doesn't steer very well. It seems like the loader has too much leverage on the tractor, being so far out in front of the steering axle.


Thoughts? Similar experience? Any input is appreciated.

 

[sea2summit]

Rear blade 100%. You'll just destroy your FEL doing that much "plowing" with it. They are pretty good at lifting things, okay at pushing things, but horrible with any lateral forces.

 

[oldnslo]

Rear blade will also potentially push tractor sideways especially if wet heavier snow. I have frame mounted plow than drop with two pins and then hook up loader if want to push piles back. Being closer to tractor it pushes front less but will push sideways with heavy snow.

 

[TerryR]

I'd go for the rear blade, no doubt. But 12" is a bit much for your rig I think, it would be happier with 8-10". But as oldnslo says, a rear blade will definitely turn you into the ditch very quickly if you hit something too firm, like a block of frozen snow.

I run a rear blade on a JD 870, which seems to be near the weight of your tractor without the backhoe. An 18" snowbank threw me into the ditch a couple of years ago, and I broke a seal on the FEL trying to work my way out.

 

[m5guy]

Snow plow 100% better than a back blade. I've done both ways. A snowblower on the back would be better.

 

[Thomas]

Combo of both...there times front plow will load up from wet heavy snow glide above what you want to remove,drop rear plow should scrape to ground surface.

 

[TractorTYMe]

My 86'' dozer blade is not too far up front from the pins of FEL, so I do not get pushed sideways quite as bad as some that stick out further. But for this reason I also keep chains on front.

 

[Jims1025R]

I was reluctant to put a front blade on the loader of my JD 1025R, but it has worked out well. My previous JD 650 loader would not have tolerated it, but the 1025R loader seems much more stiff. I suggest looking to see if the original FEL manufacturer offers a blade for the FEL, that way you'll have an idea what they are thinking about doing that.

Blade on the front, and blower on the three point works perfectly. Blowers are not so desirable on the rear of standard transmission tractors (poor choice in blowing speeds) but with hydrostat they're fine. I plow a windrow, then blow it. The plow run is quick, the blower run is slower, but cleans up very well.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

We are in about the same boat as you. My in-laws live on a crooked and steep chip-sealed road. I use their big old Alice Chamlers 170 and a rear blade. It's heavier than yours and I still have to have a good head of steam or it will just spin the tires. I would say back blade for sure, but maybe a little narrower one. The metal edge will be fine. The one I use is pretty heavy and it just slides and does no damage to the road.

 

[nybirdman]

I have and use both a front plow and rear blade;for your use a good heavy medium duty rear blade should work.Get one with off set.Three point has no down pressure and will ride up when going forward,do NOT push back-wards(if you turn the blade around),no give and something expensive could break.

 

[Topzide]

I homebuilt a manual front plow that I can slip on the bottom of the bucket and is held on with a chain binder. That way if I need to move some snow, unhook plow and bucket it out of the way then reattach blade. Use this on a Bolens [Iskei] G1502. Not a factory FEL, come from a Mitsubishi 200/2000. Bought off Ebay many years ago and built subframe for it. Works for me.

 

[DK35vince]

Hands down a power angle front snow plow.

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[RjCorazza]

Adding on to nybirdman's post, if you adjust the 3 point lowering speed faster, the rear blade will float better. There is no need to alter the toplink, other than to get the frame level so that the angled blade remains level to the surface.

I also prefer front and rear plows, or a 3 point blower for larger snows. As far as the edge, a poly edge is going to wear faster on a tar and chip surface, but likely still doable. I would likely use a steel edge if pavement marking were not an issue. The polyurethane edges will wear the fastest, and UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) polyethylene will wear much better. I run the UHMW polyethylene edges front and rear to avoid complaints about pavement marking.

 

[dodge man]

I think a front plow is better. With trip springs and some care I don’t think your FEL will be ok. The rear blade does ok but if you get deeper snow they don’t work as well. The advantage of a rear blade is it’s cheaper.

 

[duffer]

For a mile of road to clear, I wouldn't even think about a rear blade. Not because it won't work, but because I'd have to go to the chiropractor after every snow plowing session. Your neck will be killing you to look backwards for that amount of time.

Also unless you mount a rear light bar, you'll have trouble seeing your "guidelines" for the road in heavily shaded areas, or at dusk or later, and you could be the one getting "stuck".

 

[stumblinhorse]

You are gonna get lots of opinions. I have moved a lot of snow with a back blade. I have never thought that I missed having a front plow. We get 20’ average of snow in winter. Only issue, but is same with both your options, is when the piles on the side get too much. I have had a rear blower now for 2 seasons after 20 years of a back blade.

I really like having the bucket on the front so I don’t get stuck. I can get myself out of everything rolling the bucket. I have done that with a neighbors front plow, but wasn’t as effective, but still got it free.

 

[oosik]

I have a mile long gravel driveway. For the first 27 years I had a Ford 1700 with a rear blade. On rare occasions I'd wait too long - the snow would get too deep - the rear blade would tend to push the rear of the tractor around.

Now I have a Kubota M6040. FEL with grapple - Rimguard in the rear tires - 1000# Rhino rear blade. In this configuration the tractor weighs - 10,000 pounds. I offset - angle the rear blade and go down the driveway like smoke and oakum. It takes two passes to clear the driveway. Sore neck and shoulders - NEVER. Once the blade is set - it's just - - go like the wind.

Now - you want to talk about a REAL PITA. I had a 3-point blower for the Ford. Used it when the snow got really deep. At least four hours to clear the driveway and mailbox area. Another hour or so to clear the yard.

My neck and shoulders would take two or three days to "heal" after using the blower. That's one of the major reasons I went to the Kubota. Bigger, heavier tractor with a HD rear blade could handle the deepest snows.

This is my snow machine..........

 

[ddbackhoe]

Hands down a power angle front snow plow.

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8 foot ? How much snow before it bogs down?

 

[camshawn]

I like the front mounted plough. I built my own and it works very well. Takes about 20 min to remove the FEL and put on the snow plough. I use an angle blade on the rear with a hydraulic offset to clear the shop doors and places I need to pull the snow from. This also lets me push the snow windrow off the edge while keeping the tractor on the driveway.
Edit: Power angle and raise lower are driven by the loader valve. Power angle is great. I can plow deep snow to both sides of the driveway going downhill And cleanup around obsticals is really easy.
Cam

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/dsc_6288-jpg.491229/

 

[dstig1]

You need is not heavy or frequent so in your case the rear blade would be the economical solution. I use mine a lot and it becomes a problem once the mounds start to build up on the sides of the drive, but I doubt you will have that issue. When that happens, snow tends to fall back in and it takes many passes and some occasional bucket pushing to fix it. But for a rare use like you have, where I am assuming it often melts before the next one, this will be the cheapest way to get it done decently well. Also, if you are going to get a big dump, plow part way through so it doesn't overload the blade so much and then come back for a second pass later.

Since you use it driving forward, you don't need to look back a ton. I have a cab with outside mirrors, and those work great for double checking while driving with minimal turning around. Now if you were using a blower in reverse, then your neck would be killing you. If you catch on something, it will turn the tractor but unless you are flying down the lane or live on the edge of a thousand foot drop-off, that should be a non-event.

But what I would STRONGLY suggest to add to this is chains. Assuming you have 4wd, get front chains as they are much easier to install, and then plow only in 4wd. This will help a ton with traction if you have hills, and especially since you mentioned ice being an issue. Just remember to take it out of 4wd on dry pavement so you don't tear up anything expensive in the drive line...