Rotary Cutter 60" or 72" for 27 PTO HP?

[Hipomus]

I'm buying a Yanmar YT235. It will be my first tractor and I would like some opinions on what size rotary cutter/brush hog to buy.

The dealership has Ironcraft(aka Titan) and the 72" is rated for 30-50 PTO HP. The tractor has 27.

My problem is that I'm getting wheel spacers(I don't like how narrow these newer tractors are, especially since I'm getting a cab) so the 60" won't cover the footprint.

I'm assuming these manufacturers are rounding up required horsepower(to cover their butts and for a nice round number), but there's no way to know. Do you guys think I'll be ok with the 6 footer?

Alternatively, I could get a 5 footer and adjust the 3 point to run it to one side. I'd need to get it 4ish inches over to cover the wheel, though I'd like to get it further it possible. I've seen older threads talking about doing this but no one has said exactly how far they've managed to move it over. I know it will vary by tractor, but I wonder what I could reasonably expect?

I'd really prefer the 6' option, but I also want it to work properly.

Thanks!

 

[fidowanttobe]

I have a 28 HP pto diesel manual tranny tractor and it handles a 60" brush hog no problem and if I could I would gladly swap it for a 72" however I don't use it enough anymore to justify the upgrade.
Now I mostly run a 84" finish mower.
Really depends on how tall and thick it is and how fast you want it done.

 

[sea2summit]

General rule of thumb is 5hp/ft of cutter but there are many variables. How thick is the material you're cutting? Tall grass or is there woody weeds or saplings as well? How's the terriain? Hills suck power, you already mention wheel spacers so that's an indicator.

For me, I wouldn't run a 6' cutter on a 27PTO HP machine. But if you're cutting light material (basically just heavy mowing) on mostly flat ground you should be fine if you go slow.

 

[2manyrocks]

I was running a lightweight 6' cutter on a 35hp Mahindra 3525 gear drive, but tall vegetation would choke it unless I raised the cutter up or slowed down.

Got to be careful with what cutter weight relative to your tractor's weight, especially if hills are involved. Even a lightweight 6' cutter is pretty heavy just because of the size of the deck.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

With a hydro trans you have infinite speeds, with gear drive, you don’t, so going to large would then be an issue.

 

[Hipomus]

General rule of thumb is 5hp/ft of cutter but there are many variables. How thick is the material you're cutting? Tall grass or is there woody weeds or saplings as well? How's the terriain? Hills suck power, you already mention wheel spacers so that's an indicator.

For me, I wouldn't run a 6' cutter on a 27PTO HP machine. But if you're cutting light material (basically just heavy mowing) on mostly flat ground you should be fine if you go slow.

My land is about as flat as it comes, I just don't like the height/width ratio with these tractors. I figure it's worth $450 to be on the safe side.

The grass can get pretty tall but I'll maintain it well enough after the first cut. It was a hay field before I bought it. With the little forest area that I can touch(wetland) I'll clear up anything sizeable with a stump bucket or by hand.

I'd think I should be fine, I just don't want something that barely works.

 

[scootr]

A 72" flail would require less power to run and they are easily offset so you only have one tire in the cut. Don't settle for whatever the dealer has in stock. Look around. And enjoy the new tractor.

 

[2manyrocks]

You also want to factor in the amount of acres you plan to cut and how much time it will require based on your ground speed and effective cutting width. Here is a mowing per acres calculator. Mowing Calcuator | How many acres can I mow in an hour

I usually estimate no more than about 5 mph will be possible due to rough fields and obstacles. You also lose effective cutting width due to overlap.

 

[scootr]

Also I'm not sure if the Cab has to figured into the tractors load when determining how much mower it can handle.
I over-faced my Skid Steer (60" bucket) with a 72" brush hog and ended up buying a second 60" to use in thicker brush. The 72 would bog down or stop (hydraulic drive).
This was an expensive lesson.

 

[ruffdog]

The 5 foot one.

 

[2manyrocks]

IMO, there could be less risk in buying a used 6' cutter for $500-900 than buying a new cutter from the dealer because the used one could probably be resold without much loss so long as the OP didn't overpay for a used cutter that needs unanticipated expensive repairs like a bad gearbox or blade carrier that is fractured.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

Used is the way to go… as long as they aren’t asking nearly new prices. When shopping for my tiller, it made sense to buy new… used were abused and 75% the cost of new.

 

[zzvyb6]

Here's my experience data: I can run a 7' Woods finish mower easily on my lawn with my 35 hp tractor. It's supported by 4 gauge wheels so lifting is not an issue. For field high grass, I can set it up for a 6" cut. The 'problem' is side discharge, which soaks up power to shove the grass out the side and gives it extra chopping.

I have a 76" front mower on my 22 hp JD935 with rear discharge. Yesterday, I ran thru an uncut field using a walking speed and the motor didn't even get on the governor. It did slip a little when I waded thru 4" of water that apparently was left over from a heavy rain, but the rear discharge makes all the difference power wise. This mower doesn't make the prettiest lawn care, but I can run it at full ground speed under normal conditions.

I view width as a main player since it's cutting area so time to do the complete job. It should be obvious, but make sure the mower is wide enough to cover your tractor's wheel width, and take into account that overlap occurs no matter how hard you try to stay on course. From that point on, does it fit in your garage, shed, workshop, or yard when not in use.

 

[Hughman]

Here's my experience data: I can run a 7' Woods finish mower easily on my lawn with my 35 hp tractor. It's supported by 4 gauge wheels so lifting is not an issue. For field high grass, I can set it up for a 6" cut. The 'problem' is side discharge, which soaks up power to shove the grass out the side and gives it extra chopping.

I agree. If all you are doing is cutting grass on a flat field, consider a 72" RFM. I'm running a 72" landpride RFM rear discharge on a 33 hp hydro tractor (about 28 PTO hp) with no problems at all, and I'm all hills.

 

[fidowanttobe]

My 84" RFM is rear discharge also. Very pleased with it.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I'm buying a Yanmar YT235. It will be my first tractor and I would like some opinions on what size rotary cutter/brush hog to buy.

The dealership has Ironcraft(aka Titan) and the 72" is rated for 30-50 PTO HP. The tractor has 27.

My problem is that I'm getting wheel spacers(I don't like how narrow these newer tractors are, especially since I'm getting a cab) so the 60" won't cover the footprint.

I'm assuming these manufacturers are rounding up required horsepower(to cover their butts and for a nice round number), but there's no way to know. Do you guys think I'll be ok with the 6 footer?

Alternatively, I could get a 5 footer and adjust the 3 point to run it to one side. I'd need to get it 4ish inches over to cover the wheel, though I'd like to get it further it possible. I've seen older threads talking about doing this but no one has said exactly how far they've managed to move it over. I know it will vary by tractor, but I wonder what I could reasonably expect?

I'd really prefer the 6' option, but I also want it to work properly.

Thanks!

I have the same 6' cutter (Titan) with a Branson sticker on it (Titan made them for Branson). I've owned it for 6 1/2 years. I'm using it on a cabbed 37 hp tractor, with 32 hp at the pto. I do have a hydro trans, and that is really what makes this combo work well for me.

Yours will probably look strikingly similar ( other than color maybe). You are correct that heavy, thick grass will cause you to need to slow down (not the grass in pic, that was "easy" and ran at "full speed"). If you are mowing your own pastures only, it will be fine. Especially once you knock it down once or twice. I think even your 27 hp at the pto will do just fine. Especially if you can take your time the first time or two.

If you're soft headed like me, and mow other people's pastures for hire, it's going to get beat up. It's just not designed to take a beating. The deck metal is on the thin side, and the gearbox is pretty small. Regardless of what Titan calls it now (it was listed as "medium duty" I think when I bought mine), it is strictly a light duty cutter. This first upper picture is actually on the first "hired" job I did with mine. Note how "pretty" it is? When I mowed my own pasture only, it was easy to get it (pasture), and keep it free from debris. The funny thing is, when folks are "hiring" their fields mowed, they seem to have an amazing assortment of debris, rock piles, concrete piles, pallets, car parts, old rolls of fence wire and posts, piles of rotten wood and tree stumps (I'm probably forgetting a few things).

Lets see if I have a recent close up:

Not as recent as I'd hoped. See the sides? Top of deck? If you can zoom it in, you can see the "character", lol. It's got more character now. But it has mowed through some impressive junk to date (one of my favorite pics):

The weeds above are 10' high, towering over my cab. I'm mowing through this in a full width pass, with the bucket down in front of me and just pushing it over like a bow wave and mowing it. This pass was done at a fast walk, which was as fast as I was comfortable in knocking down that solid wall that I couldn't see into.

This pic was same job, just a little sooner around on the same pass. You can see my first pass cut on the right side of the tractor. That was also taken as a full width pass, and at a fast walking speed.

This was with 32 pto hp. You may have to slow down a bit more frequently when it gets thick than I would have, but if it's your own land, once you cut it down, it should be much easier to maintain.

Most of my customers only want cut once a year or two, so you won't have to deal with the same out of control weeds once you get going.

As to the cutter itself? I can't believe it still runs. When I bought it originally, it was ONLY going to be used on my own land, and maybe one neighbor. So I figured this light duty cutter would be fine (and it was). But I have to give it credit, I have not broken one. single. thing. on this cutter. I've been through fists full of shear pins, to be sure, but never broken the cutter itself. Still on original blades, and I've never (and don't intend to) sharpened them either.

My 2 cents running the identical 6' cutter you're considering.

 

[oldnslo]

I run 60” woods on my Branson with 18 - 19 PTO HP. Tall grass it grunts but never been a problem. I am also on flat ground so never connect top link or try to lift entire unit. It will but barely

 

[Torvy]

If people work harder than they are capable, they tend to get stronger (to a point). When you run equipment beyond its rating, it might work, but you are putting long term stress on the components and they would be 100% justified denying warranty claims if you exceed the parameters. There are better options.

 

[jaxs]

If people work harder than they are capable, they tend to get stronger (to a point). When you run equipment beyond its rating, it might work, but you are putting long term stress on the components and they would be 100% justified denying warranty claims if you exceed the parameters. There are better options.

^^Words of wisdom, I recommend you heed them and add years to the usable life of your tractor. I'll make it so you can use common sense and your judgement in making this decision instead of letting strangers make important decisions for you. Beg,borrow,rent or steal a flail mower to mow your place or at least part of it. Do the same with a rotary cutter the same width. You will notice tractor handles flail much easier and mowed area looks much nicer. If for some reason you are hell bent on buying a rotary mower,stop worrying about covering your tracks and don't exceed 48". It isn't important for mower to be wider than tire tracks? Grass pushed down by tires doesn't have time to stand back up before mower passes over 1.5 seconds later. With a little practice you can skip strips with tracks in them equal to mower width as you make rounds. In the few minutes it requires to circle field grass will have stood up some so more is clipped off than if cut 1.5 seconds after being pushed down.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I have two 6' rotary cutters, IF I put a 27 pto tractor in front of either one, and got into any taller grass, the tractor would overheat.

Been there tried that!

SR