Manual Hydraulic Multiplier for snowblower

[Eugene Savoy]

Hey guys, if this has already been discussed I do apologize, I just couldn't find exactly what I was looking for in the search function.

I am getting a rear mounted snow blower with a hydraulic shoot. My tractor has a front end loader but no rear remotes. I was told I could add a diverter valve from my front end loader to supply the snowblower.
I have seen manual units and electronic ones, obviously the manual one is cheaper and feel like this would be an economical way to fit my needs as I do not need to use the fel very often when dealing with the snow.

 

[oldnslo]

Will you be using the loader during the same snow events as the blower? If yes would manually switching from loader to blower be a problem?

Will mounting the diverter so you can access it with out getting off the tractor or out of the seat be a problem?

 

[WinterDeere]

I ran a rear-mounted snowblower for many years, a 2011 Woods SB64S on the 1986 Deere 855 shown in my avatar. My recommendation is to not bother with hydraulics for the snowblower, unless you have a cabbed tractor, they're really total unnecessary.

I went through the same thought process as you, thinking of ways to divert the loader controls or even adding SCV's to my Power Beyond loop, but decided to just try the manual chute crank first. Glad I did, as it's quick and easy to manually adjust the chute the few times it's needed, while operating the thing. It would definitely NOT be worth losing or even delaying (with additional valving) loader functionality, as the loader is your best friend while using a snowblower. I would use the loader to drag snow away from garage doors, prep edges, etc. In tandem, a loader and snowblower work quite well, if you have room to swing that long rig around in the area you're working.

 

[LouNY]

Do you need one or two functions for your blower?
Myself if it was just for chute rotation I'd be tempted to mount an electric diverter valve on my loader dump curl function. Tou could mount it so that it could be used with any loader attachment and then run a pair of long hoses back under the tractor tucked up good to the blower. Then your loader curl left and right could correspond with the chute left or right. And your loader is still fully functional. Also the hoses going back could be just 1/4" or 3/8" hoses to keep them easily managed.

 

[Eugene Savoy]

Thanks for all the input.
I will need a left and right function for the blower and diverting it/mounting does not seem to pose a problem. Also, I would not be needing the loader nearly as much in the winter time.

Honestly, I like WinterDeeres idea and just switch to the manual operation since adding valves and mounting seems like a headache with only a slight gain. Since the blower is hydraulic, would it be pretty straight forward to make it a manual?

 

[WinterDeere]

They're usually sold one way or the other. But if you bought this second-hand with hydraulics installed, you could likely buy the manual crank "kit" and sell your present hydraulic chute kit for a nice profit. I think Woods got something like $800 for that hydraulics kit, whereas the manual kit was only 25% that cost.

 

[Eugene Savoy]

Sounds like a good idea. The hydraulics were already installed on the second hand machine.

You have any idea where to source the "manual crank kit"?

 

[MossRoad]

Every time I've used a snowblower what I remember most is either the wind changes direction, or I change direction, and either way I get a face full of snow until the chute direction is changed.

You already have a hydraulic chute. As others have mentioned, all you'd need is an electric diverted valve, some long hoses, maybe some short hoses where you tap in, some fittings, and a switch mounted on the joystick to switch between bucket dump/curl or snowblower chute left/right.

 

[WinterDeere]

Sounds like a good idea. The hydraulics were already installed on the second hand machine.

You have any idea where to source the "manual crank kit"?

Do note that I came into this assuming you did not already have hydraulics installed, as was my case, and were looking to do that. My take on it, from that perspective, is that I wouldn't bother until after I'd tried the manual crank, as I didn't find the cost of the upgrade to be worth the effort. I also liked not having to switch a diverter each time I wanted to use the loader.

However, as Moss already rightfully pointed out, you already have the hydraulics installed. So in this case, the diverter may be the path of least resistance, or at least worth more consideration, than it was for my situation.

That said, if you wanted to source the mechanical chute rotator kit, you'd want to contact the snowblower manufacturer or any dealer for that manufacturer.

 

[RjCorazza]

I don't claim to know a lot about installing hydraulic connections, as I ordered my last tractor with a 3rd function up front and two remote rear valves.
I will say that if you decide to add hydraulic remotes on the rear, go with at least 2. Someday you may want to add a hydraulic deflector to the chute, which comes in very handy to put snow exactly where you want it. You will also stay drier on an open station machine.