paulsharvey
Elite Member
97% passing the 3-1/2"; max 10 plasticity, min LBR100. I dont know if that meets your terminology, but thats the spec for "limerock" road base.Which is a size call out.
Any Excavation Professionals Feel Like Giving Advice?
- Thread starter The-AJ88
- Start date
OP here, I plan to make a decision this week on a contractor. Another contractor stopped by with his idea. He recommended geotextile fabric, #1 and #2 limestone, asphalt millings, then top with #57 limestone (to match the existing driveway). He said the asphalt millings will pack very nicely.
Will asphalt millings hold up overtime with the cold winters and hot humid summers in Ohio?
For reference - pricing I have recieved has ranged from $1,800 - $4,500 for this job
Will asphalt millings hold up overtime with the cold winters and hot humid summers in Ohio?
For reference - pricing I have recieved has ranged from $1,800 - $4,500 for this job
LD1
Epic Contributor
Never used asphalt millings. But if they are similar to 411's with alot of dust and fines I dont see any issue.
The reason for putting 411's on top of the base of 1-2's.....is that alot of the fines from the 411's filter down and fill the voids of the 1-2's and lock them together to stabilize the base.
IF the millings are mostly uniform in size and dont have a range of fines ranging from dust up to 1/2" or 3/4" chunks....I dont think it will lock the base in very well
The reason for putting 411's on top of the base of 1-2's.....is that alot of the fines from the 411's filter down and fill the voids of the 1-2's and lock them together to stabilize the base.
IF the millings are mostly uniform in size and dont have a range of fines ranging from dust up to 1/2" or 3/4" chunks....I dont think it will lock the base in very well
rScotty
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Most roadbase textbooks all the way back to McAdam's original patents agree that the fines, dust, moisture content, and compaction are keys to locking the crushed rock into place.
It's researchable online.
Amazing how long it took mankind to figure out how to make a durable road surface.
Learning how to build roads that stay in place took until he early 1800s. Up until then, everything from farm carts to cannons used a wheel base measured to fit the ruts.
rScotty
paulsharvey
Elite Member
"OP here, I plan to make a decision this week on a contractor. Another contractor stopped by with his idea. He recommended geotextile fabric, #1 and #2 limestone, asphalt millings, then top with #57 limestone (to match the existing driveway). He said the asphalt millings will pack very nicely. "
Asphalt millings will pack nicely, and provide a good surface, resistant to water and turning movements.
"Will asphalt millings hold up overtime with the cold winters and hot humid summer. "
They will hold very well is heat, can't say anything about freeze thaw, don't have that around here.
"For reference - pricing I have recieved has ranged from $1,800 - $4,500 for this job."
Low end isn't unreasonable; I would say; roughly 6 hours at $150/hr for mini hoe or mini ex; and roller or heavy plate tamp. Between $600-900 for 20 tons of material (thats asphalt millings, hauled, locally); plus profit. The $4500; I would rather have 6" thick concrete, with WWF, at that price. Still have to excavate atleast 4" down, around here you won't find topsoil deaper then maybe 2 or 3" max; we wouldn't put gravel under concrete, but you have a different geology, do I dont know.
6" concrete, 30ft x 30 ft, is only 17 yards; or 2 truck loads; at around here I think $135/yard, maybe 2 hours to excavate and form; then pour and finish; 3 men at 8 hours. So, let's say, 2 guys, 1 mini hoe; forming, I'd say $450; let's go crazy and say $3000 for concrete; and let's say $750 to $1250 for pour and finish. Looks to be like $4500.
Your mileage may vary.
Asphalt millings will pack nicely, and provide a good surface, resistant to water and turning movements.
"Will asphalt millings hold up overtime with the cold winters and hot humid summer. "
They will hold very well is heat, can't say anything about freeze thaw, don't have that around here.
"For reference - pricing I have recieved has ranged from $1,800 - $4,500 for this job."
Low end isn't unreasonable; I would say; roughly 6 hours at $150/hr for mini hoe or mini ex; and roller or heavy plate tamp. Between $600-900 for 20 tons of material (thats asphalt millings, hauled, locally); plus profit. The $4500; I would rather have 6" thick concrete, with WWF, at that price. Still have to excavate atleast 4" down, around here you won't find topsoil deaper then maybe 2 or 3" max; we wouldn't put gravel under concrete, but you have a different geology, do I dont know.
6" concrete, 30ft x 30 ft, is only 17 yards; or 2 truck loads; at around here I think $135/yard, maybe 2 hours to excavate and form; then pour and finish; 3 men at 8 hours. So, let's say, 2 guys, 1 mini hoe; forming, I'd say $450; let's go crazy and say $3000 for concrete; and let's say $750 to $1250 for pour and finish. Looks to be like $4500.
Your mileage may vary.
Last edited:
paulsharvey
Elite Member
As a bit of a range; there is locally a guy who would probably quote $12-16000, and happily turn you down if he was busy; and another guy who would probably do it for $2500 and you buy the materials. Lot depends on how busy contractors are in your area.
rScotty
Super Member
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- 8,298
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- Kubota M59, JD530, JD310SG. Restoring Yanmar YM165D
They sure did. Roadbuilding has a fascinating history. The Romans used fitted flat blocks of stone - but didn't do any compaction. Maybe the should have used cubical blocks, but still their lighetweight system worked OK as long as they were around to maintain it. The Romans were nuts for good roads & spent a lot on them. After the Romans left, the local people tended to find other uses for those paving blocks - they make dandy castles - and so the Roman roads turned into mud tracks.
The British and French gov'ts posted a reward for a solution, and along about 1800 a Scottish civil engineer named John McAdam figured out how to make a strong weatherproof road surface using compacted crushed stone & fines. In fact, his patent application talks about using broken up paving blocks. He got the patent and was offered a knighthood. Later on the same technique was used with the addition of asphalt, and so here we are today.
The Americanized spelling is "macadam".
You can download his patent and read it if interested.
John Loudon McAdam: The Father of the Modern Road
John Loudon McAdam changed the world of road-building forever.
interestingengineering.com
rScotty
Streetcar
Veteran Member
asphalt milling would be closer to a 304 mixture with some larger chunks
paulsharvey
Elite Member
I know we are all trying to be helpful, but one Huge problem with internet research and opinions is Paralysis by Analysis. Theory is good, but most gravel/rock/stabalized drives work pretty well, even with little over thinking. In all honesty, and even too ghetto for me (which says a lot), if you lay an old carpet on top of relatively stable sand, it works...
Good luck with your drive, hope you get what you want, and I think you will be pleased.
Good luck with your drive, hope you get what you want, and I think you will be pleased.