B2650 stopped and won’t start

[Jhawker23]

It was probably mid 20’s when it stopped. About the same when I replaced the filter and fuel. Yesterday was 30 and sunny and it was fresh fuel pumped 30 mins prior. I also tried 50% fuel and 50% 911 in the filter reservoir with no change.

This has never happened before and I’m in NW CO and have used it often in cold temps, colder than the past few days. However, it has been ridiculously cold here the past 2 weeks, lows in single digits to -20. But the fuel has been changed twice.

There are no pumps between the tank and the filter.

The symptoms are still exactly the same as prior to filter and fuel change. Cranking with WOT and then 1/4 throttle gets it sputtering for a few seconds. Also, when it does start, the engine sounds “smooth” and quieter, not the usual running sound.

When I was bleeding it at the bleeder bolt, if I had it turned out enough I could get it to start and run for about 5+ seconds. It would take about 3 full turns out and spewed a lot of fuel but it ran longer than any other option. I was able to repeat this procedure with the same results. As soon as I closed it, it wouldn’t start. That’s when I bled it at the injectors. No change.

I’m stuck on the fact it died while running and still has the same symptoms. This seems to point at a component failure. Are certain parts likely to fail while running?

I have very little time available and it’s worth buying a few prime suspect parts to replace all at once. Fuel pump and solenoid?

Any reason I shouldn’t eliminate starter as it dies after starting?

 

[TractorTech]

Injection pump isn't under the frame.

Actually, that answered the question as that is a picture of a mechanical lift pump, so it doesn’t have an electric pump underneath.

 

[TractorTech]

It was probably mid 20’s when it stopped. About the same when I replaced the filter and fuel. Yesterday was 30 and sunny and it was fresh fuel pumped 30 mins prior. I also tried 50% fuel and 50% 911 in the filter reservoir with no change.

This has never happened before and I’m in NW CO and have used it often in cold temps, colder than the past few days. However, it has been ridiculously cold here the past 2 weeks, lows in single digits to -20. But the fuel has been changed twice.

There are no pumps between the tank and the filter.

The symptoms are still exactly the same as prior to filter and fuel change. Cranking with WOT and then 1/4 throttle gets it sputtering for a few seconds. Also, when it does start, the engine sounds “smooth” and quieter, not the usual running sound.

When I was bleeding it at the bleeder bolt, if I had it turned out enough I could get it to start and run for about 5+ seconds. It would take about 3 full turns out and spewed a lot of fuel but it ran longer than any other option. I was able to repeat this procedure with the same results. As soon as I closed it, it wouldn’t start. That’s when I bled it at the injectors. No change.

I’m stuck on the fact it died while running and still has the same symptoms. This seems to point at a component failure. Are certain parts likely to fail while running?

I have very little time available and it’s worth buying a few prime suspect parts to replace all at once. Fuel pump and solenoid?

Any reason I shouldn’t eliminate starter as it dies after starting?

It sounds like a blockage and the only thing that seems to be consistent is the bleed screw open, it will start. I’m wondering if there isn’t a particle in the bleed fitting somehow causing the line to the injection pump to be blocked.

I once had a tractor that had a small piece of sawdust blocking a fitting that couldn’t be seen until the fitting was removed and inspected off of the tractor.

 

[JWR]

It was probably mid 20’s when it stopped. About the same when I replaced the filter and fuel. Yesterday was 30 and sunny and it was fresh fuel pumped 30 mins prior. I also tried 50% fuel and 50% 911 in the filter reservoir with no change. What is 911?

This has never happened before and I’m in NW CO and have used it often in cold temps, colder than the past few days. However, it has been ridiculously cold here the past 2 weeks, lows in single digits to -20. But the fuel has been changed twice. Is it possible that you had a section of gel that just never quite converted back to free liquid when the temperature rose? Is it in a warm building or can you put it inside one for a day ?

There are no pumps between the tank and the filter.

The symptoms are still exactly the same as prior to filter and fuel change. Cranking with WOT and then 1/4 throttle gets it sputtering for a few seconds. Also, when it does start, the engine sounds “smooth” and quieter, not the usual running sound.

When I was bleeding it at the bleeder bolt, if I had it turned out enough I could get it to start and run for about 5+ seconds. It would take about 3 full turns out and spewed a lot of fuel but it ran longer than any other option. I was able to repeat this procedure with the same results. As soon as I closed it, it wouldn’t start. That’s when I bled it at the injectors. No change.

I’m stuck on the fact it died while running and still has the same symptoms. This seems to point at a component failure. Are certain parts likely to fail while running?

I have very little time available and it’s worth buying a few prime suspect parts to replace all at once. Fuel pump and solenoid?

Any reason I shouldn’t eliminate starter as it dies after starting?

My comments are added in red above...

 

[JWR]

It sounds like a blockage and the only thing that seems to be consistent is the bleed screw open, it will start. I’m wondering if there isn’t a particle in the bleed fitting somehow causing the line to the injection pump to be blocked.

I once had a tractor that had a small piece of sawdust blocking a fitting that couldn’t be seen until the fitting was removed and inspected off of the tractor.

Yeah, but he bled it at the injectors too ! This is weird. Maybe when he bled it at the injectors it was not enough to get the obstruction to move along to a point of blockage ? Didn't he say "the fuel only ran at a drip into the bowl?" Doesn't that say there is a blockage somewhere prior to the bowl?

 

[TractorTech]

Yeah, but he bled it at the injectors too ! This is weird. Maybe when he bled it at the injectors it was not enough to get the obstruction to move along to a point of blockage ?

He bled at injectors with the bleed screw out and that is when it would run is how I read.
Very weird, but it is the last point before the inj pump

 

[denchen]

On the first picture, just below the oil filler plug, there looks to me to be a cam operated fuel pump. I think I would take the pump off, remove the short rubber hose going to the pressure pump, and work the cam manually to check it's pumping. I've known on cam operated pumps for the pump lever to break and if that is the pump, the top bit might be a filter.

 

[beckmurph]

Is the fuel filter housing bad?

When you remove the glass bowl to replace the fuel filter the fuel stops flowing.
After replacing the filter, when you screw the bowl back on, the fuel starts flowing.

So, could the housing be bad?
Or the filter bowl is not tight?

 

[ruffdog]

I would remove the supply line to the mechanical lift pump and see if you are getting a good flow there. Let it run for a while into a glass jar so you can inspect for water, gel, or debris. If you don't get good fuel there, try blowing low pressure air back toward the tank (loosen the tank cap first). Once you get flow there, then, bleed it at the bleed screw.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Actually, that answered the question as that is a picture of a mechanical lift pump, so it doesn’t have an electric pump underneath.

It may have. Won't hurt to check. Some had both. I worked for Kubota and saw both used at times.