DIY Bridge

   / DIY Bridge #31  
Designing bridge that goes over a creek has been changing its bed exceeds my pay grade. Good luck!
 
   / DIY Bridge #32  
I hate doing things twice myself, especially when there’s money involved. Those culverts aren’t cheap. I’m too old and out of shape to enjoy the exercise I’d get.
The water does turn at my drive. I know the first thing I’ll need to do is have the creek bed dredged out & straightened to help with the flow& possibly use some rip rap to shore up the banks.
Thanks for commenting.
I can have a bridge built to span a 10-12 foot stream for around $3-4000. That's a few hours with an excavator, 4 waste blocks for abutments; a load of stone for rip rap; and three "skidder mats" to span the stream with. If you need to go higher than 2 feet it will cost a bit more; another $300 for blocks, Geotek or something else to use as a "deadman", and a bit more time for the excavator. You may also need a load or two of gravel. That is the route I would take based on the pictures you posted. Do that and be done with it.
 
   / DIY Bridge #33  
Designing bridge that goes over a creek has been changing its bed exceeds my pay grade. Good luck!
looking at his pictures it appears that he is crossing at an angle. If so that is part of the problem.
 
   / DIY Bridge #34  
24”X20’ culvert cost $550.00ea
36”X20’ culvert cost$1300.00 ea
Nothing’s cheap or affordable,
Remember that at saturation the 3 foot culvert allows more water through than (2) 24" culverts. [1017 sq ft vs (2x 452 sq ft.)]

Based on the pictures you've posted though, they both will blow out at saturation.
 
   / DIY Bridge
  • Thread Starter
#35  
FWIW, creek beds usually wash out to a size that naturally handles the flow of water including seasonally heavy flows. I'd be very cautious about putting anything into a creek bed that obstructs the natural channel because one has to assume that the creek bed is the size it is because of the water flowing through it over time.
I’ve followed this dry creek bed about 5 miles. Above me there are 3 places where this creek & smaller creeks feeding into it cross the road. Each crossing has a low water concrete slab. The largest crossing is maybe 30 ft. The reason it’s so wide at my drive is because of it jogging west, east and then west again. I think just cleaning up the creek bed and taking the turns out will help tremendously.
What is FWIW mean? Thanks for commenting.
 
   / DIY Bridge
  • Thread Starter
#37  
I can have a bridge built to span a 10-12 foot stream for around $3-4000. That's a few hours with an excavator, 4 waste blocks for abutments; a load of stone for rip rap; and three "skidder mats" to span the stream with. If you need to go higher than 2 feet it will cost a bit more; another $300 for blocks, Geotek or something else to use as a "deadman", and a bit more time for the excavator. You may also need a load or two of gravel. That is the route I would take based on the pictures you posted. Do that and be done with it.
I’d be very willing to have the work done for that amount of money. I figured 40 tons of rock and maybe 20 yds3 of concrete. The culvert pipe is $2600, for the two pipe. Do you do this kind of work or know someone in my area that does?
 
   / DIY Bridge
  • Thread Starter
#38  
I had a similar problem to yours. Not quite as big, but similar. Ended up doing it 3 times before I got it right.
Totally agree with Spike56 to get your county storm water dept out there to eyeball it, and see what they say.
If the water gets to 4' deep, in 2"-3" rainstorms, then a bridge may indeed, be a better and cheaper (long term) solution.
The question I need to ask is, how did you do it the last time to solve the issue?
 
   / DIY Bridge #40  
A map of the county road, your drive, the main creek and feeder creeks would be helpful. (an areal view, Microsoft Paint drawing, or a sketch on the back of a napkin.
 

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