Kioti LK3054

[CoyPatton]

I measured the clutch free play incorrectly from the step to the bottom of the clutch pedal (ï½½ inch). Today, I found in the manual the correct way. It was a little over an inch. Now it's about 1.2 with the end of the rod about ⅛ inch inside the yoke.
When I drive the tractor and increase the rpm's, it does not go any faster, the engine just revs up.
I did grease all the fittings on the tractor and the FEL liberally. I sprayed all the various cable linkages.
I will change the coolant today. I cannot change any of the other fluids because I do not have any filters.
I was hoping that the free play adjustment would take care of the clutch slipping problem.
But I knew going in that the clutch probably need would need replaced and had that figured in the budget.
Again, thanks to all for your advice and help!!

Photo of tractor:

View attachment 665028

Nice looking tractor!
If you find yourself wanting a wider rear stance for the tractor, your rear wheels appear to be on the widest narrow stance.
I know, clear as mud. I’ll try to explain. Your wheel dish is dish in not dish out. Simple to change but a bit of work (even more if tires are fluid filled), jack yo the rear axle and support (jack stands should do the job). Then move the wheel/tire from one side to the other (L to R and R to L). They are dish out. Also your centers can be repositioned on the rims (notice the tabs and bolts at the rim ends of the wheel center.
As for your clutch, I too was hopeful thar free travel would correct the clutch issue.
But there were concerns when you said your nephew had an inspection plate off. If you have a manual, try to determine how the lever should be oriented. Also look for grease or oil on the flywheel surface—if either are present they are on the clutch plate as well.

 

[CoyPatton]

Another thing you need to realize is that a tractor is not like a car/truck with a manual transmission. While you may experience a slight speed increase, it will be slight with engine rom’s very unlike a car!
A geared transmission tractor is designed to provide a fairly consistent ground speed in a given gear. If the tractor continues to pull consistently, you may have corrected the problem. Best way I know to check this us to attach a ground engaging implement, if the tractor bogs down with a load, but still pulls or pulls till tires slip then the clutch is engaging in good contact.

 

[dantaylor]

On Monday 3 August, I took the tractor to the Jonesboro Kioti Dealership for clutch repair, oil change and filter, change air and fuel filter. They are changing front axle fluid, the oil and all filters for $65.00.
Dealer said when I got it back, it would be ready to use. I already changed the coolant and greased the tractor and FEL. I thank all members who have offered advice and assistance.
About tractors, I know nothing!!!

 

[K5lwq]

Congratulations Dan on a fantastic deal! I hope it serves you well for many years to come! Keep us updated on your projects!

Thank you for your Service!

 

[m1garand762]

The hydraulic power of the loader is week at best on lk 3054. There is not enough flow for 2 functions and lifting is limited

 

[K5lwq]

There is an upgrade pump available for the Lk3054. The original was 7GPM and the upgrade is 10GPM. Your pump could be worn. Does lift the front end off the ground? Does everything move with the engine at idle?

This is what the 7GPM pump looks like.

This is the 10GPM pump.

 

[K5lwq]

I should add that even with the higher flow you most likely will not be able to do two functions at the same time. The valve is a series valve. A parallel/series valve would let you do multiple functions although very slow and you would have to feather the valve make it work.

 

[JoelD]

There is an upgrade pump available for the Lk3054. The original was 7GPM and the upgrade is 10GPM. Your pump could be worn. Does lift the front end off the ground? Does everything move with the engine at idle?

This is what the 7GPM pump looks like.

View attachment 666334
This is the 10GPM pump.

View attachment 666338

Can you post part number for 10gpm pump?

 

[K5lwq]

Can you post part number for 10gpm pump?

The correct Kioti part number for the 10 GPM pump is T2567-76041.

Here is a link from when I did mine. Hope that helps! :thumbsup:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/392647-lk-2554-lk-3054-hydraulic.html

 

[CoyPatton]

On Monday 3 August, I took the tractor to the Jonesboro Kioti Dealership for clutch repair, oil change and filter, change air and fuel filter. They are changing front axle fluid, the oil and all filters for $65.00.
Dealer said when I got it back, it would be ready to use. I already changed the coolant and greased the tractor and FEL. I thank all members who have offered advice and assistance.
About tractors, I know nothing!!!

Did you ever get the tractor home from Jobesboro?

 

[dantaylor]

No, I haven't gotten it back from Jonesboro Kioti Dealership yet. I am anxious to get it home and work on a few projects.

 

[TapRackFire]

Dan, did you ever fix your "Clutch" issue? I'm having issues with my LK3054 not moving once i put it into gear and let the clutch out. Hopping you have a great answer to solve this problem.

 

[Patches]

Dan, did you ever fix your "Clutch" issue? I'm having issues with my LK3054 not moving once i put it into gear and let the clutch out. Hopping you have a great answer to solve this problem.

Be sure you haven't knocked the high/low range shifter out of engagement. I have done this getting on/off the tractor as the lever is adjacent to the left fender entry point

 

[TapRackFire]

NO sir. The high low shifter is not in neutral. It seems way worse when operating in the high range. ANY incline will make the tractor come to a stop. Throttle increase has no effect. If I use the low range i can get it to start moving, but it is very slow. Like it is spinning up and then begins to slowly move. trying to make the clutch adjustment, but i cant see how to get to the locking nut on the adjustment screw for the clutch.

 

[rodneyn]

NO sir. The high low shifter is not in neutral. It seems way worse when operating in the high range. ANY incline will make the tractor come to a stop. Throttle increase has no effect. If I use the low range i can get it to start moving, but it is very slow. Like it is spinning up and then begins to slowly move. trying to make the clutch adjustment, but i cant see how to get to the locking nut on the adjustment screw for the clutch.

Sounds like your clutch lining is gone or immersed in oil. If you are in gear whatever gear high or low range you should be moving at idle slow and with more throttle faster.

If moving in what ever gear with a little throttle while applying both brakes the tractor should die. If not you have clutch issues. Good clutch the will stall out the tractor. It could be adjustment if you’re lucky. My case in the past was wet friction plate from hydraulic oil leak. LK3054 Kioti in 1996. Takes a lot to Tear up tractor clutch they are robust. In proper adjustment will cause issues if the you don’t have any pedal play.

 

[TapRackFire]

Thanks Rodney!! Looking for some instructions on how to adjust that clutch. The manual is kinda informative, but i removed the two inspection plates down my right foot and could only see the top or bolt head of the adjusting screw and it is WAY out of adjustment. Looked like a 1/8 or .25"gap and should be no more than .039. The instructions mention the need to loosen the lock nut on the adjusting screw, but there is no way to reach it. I could not find any videos of my LK3054 to review.

 

[Patches]

Thanks Rodney!! Looking for some instructions on how to adjust that clutch. The manual is kinda informative, but i removed the two inspection plates down my right foot and could only see the top or bolt head of the adjusting screw and it is WAY out of adjustment. Looked like a 1/8 or .25"gap and should be no more than .039. The instructions mention the need to loosen the lock nut on the adjusting screw, but there is no way to reach it. I could not find any videos of my LK3054 to review.

I believe the adjustment of the pressure plate "fingers" can only be made when the tractor is split, as in replacing the clutch plates or the pressure plate. One of the finger adjusting bolts broke on my tractor necessitating splitting the tractor. They replaced all three of the fingers along with the adjusting bolts and then adjusted the clearance

 

[TapRackFire]

Thanks Patches. If I understand this correctly, I'm not trying to adjust the fingers. I'm trying to adjust the clearance between the travelling pressure plate and the adjusting screws. The gap they call for is 0.039" at the most. The gap i saw last night was .25. My problem is i believe i can see the head of the adjusting screw through the inspection plate i removed. But there is no way to reach the lock nut.

 

[Patches]

Those adjusting bolts you refer to are threaded through the pressure plate "fingers". You can see the fingers with the adjusting bolts in the graphic just below the one you've outlined. These bolts adjust the clearance between the throwout bearing and the release fingers of the pressure plate

 

[34Willys]

I had a 92 3054, and if I recall, the adjustment through the inspection plate was only for the PTO clutch. It's a dual clutch system. Partial movement disengages the PTO and full movement disengages transmission and drive gear. There was no 'external access' to the traveling clutch adjustment. My PTO would not disengage, and the adjustment bolts were impossible to get to through that access plate. Your year may be different. I rarely used the PTO, so I would just take it out of gear when I wanted to stop augering.
Patrick