Wooden Fence Posts
- Thread starter Medic6340
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jigs_n_fixtures
Veteran Member
Cedar, redwood, black locust, white oak and treated Doug fir make good fence posts
CalG
Super Member
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- Hurlimann 435, Fordson E27n, Bolens HT-23, Kubota B7200, Kubota B2601
I recently put in a small number of tee posts around the vegetable garden (wife's idea to keep the deer out).
I used a 5 foot pinch bar to make a hole. Maybe four or five "plunges" went as deep as required. Stepping on the plate to get it into the dry ground (sturdy shoe soles) and a few hits with a 3 pound hammer and all was well..
We have way to much stone here in Vermont. about half the holes hit something less than a foot down that reqired a two handled post hole digger to ferret out. One location, after a couple of strikes with the point, had the bar go down 3 and 1/2 feet . Must have been a rotted tree stump or the like. I'll remember to keep equipment off there! ;-)
I used a 5 foot pinch bar to make a hole. Maybe four or five "plunges" went as deep as required. Stepping on the plate to get it into the dry ground (sturdy shoe soles) and a few hits with a 3 pound hammer and all was well..
We have way to much stone here in Vermont. about half the holes hit something less than a foot down that reqired a two handled post hole digger to ferret out. One location, after a couple of strikes with the point, had the bar go down 3 and 1/2 feet . Must have been a rotted tree stump or the like. I'll remember to keep equipment off there! ;-)
oosik
Epic Contributor
You have hundreds of wooden posts to install. You will soon learn if the auger or a pounder is the way to go. This will NOT be a small project.
I installed a four wire - barbed wire fence around my 80 acres. It is one and a half miles of fencing. Some 665 T-145 steel posts. All driven in with a manual pounder. Up the hill - down over the cliff and into a valley - around many meadows - - it WAS NOT all flat, level ground. It took me the better part of a year - working every evening. Fortunately my 80 acres is a pure rectangle - 1320 x 2640.
That was in 1982 and it is still standing - straight, tight and true. I check it twice a year and do any required maintenance.
Good luck ...............
I installed a four wire - barbed wire fence around my 80 acres. It is one and a half miles of fencing. Some 665 T-145 steel posts. All driven in with a manual pounder. Up the hill - down over the cliff and into a valley - around many meadows - - it WAS NOT all flat, level ground. It took me the better part of a year - working every evening. Fortunately my 80 acres is a pure rectangle - 1320 x 2640.
That was in 1982 and it is still standing - straight, tight and true. I check it twice a year and do any required maintenance.
Good luck ...............
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oosik
Epic Contributor
Your posts will be Eastern Cedar. If they are or can be pointed - I would definitely try a manual pounder. From reading many posts here on TBN there are, at least, two difficulties with the auger method.
1- getting the auger to go in straight( using PTO driven auger). Not so much a problem if its a hand operated gas driven auger
2- if its a PTO driven auger - getting the tractor/auger properly placed
If I had to use a PTO driven auger to install all my T-posts - - I'd still be working on the installation. After more than 40 years.
For that matter - there are numerous locations along my fence line where it is not possible to get a tractor. This is why I went 100% manual pounder. The tractor was used to transport the steel posts to areas - as close as possible.
1- getting the auger to go in straight( using PTO driven auger). Not so much a problem if its a hand operated gas driven auger
2- if its a PTO driven auger - getting the tractor/auger properly placed
If I had to use a PTO driven auger to install all my T-posts - - I'd still be working on the installation. After more than 40 years.
For that matter - there are numerous locations along my fence line where it is not possible to get a tractor. This is why I went 100% manual pounder. The tractor was used to transport the steel posts to areas - as close as possible.
oosik
Epic Contributor
Iman - The primary purpose of my barbed wire fence is to keep cattle out. Secondarily - it's to establish the perimeters of my property. Because I choose EverSharp barbed wire - it does a pretty good job of keeping people out also.
fuchifarm
Bronze Member
Check facebook marketplace for an old Danuser 3pt post pounder. Search for post pounder and or post driver. Usually go for $800 to $1500 around me. Their 3pt pto powered driver can drive 6" post into soft ground in a few hits. Right now my soft clay/sand ground is concrete hard due to the lack of rain this summer. I have to auger out with a 4" drill prior to pounding them in and its still slow going. When you are done putting in posts sell it on facebook and get your money back. Any cat 1 tractor will be able to handle to the old danuser no hydraulics required. Just check the rubber wheel to make sure it is in good shape and will lift the sled. Parts are still available from danuser.