Will this hold or crack over time? Do more passes?

[Tractor Seabee]

Hard to tell thickness of the parts but assuming the verticals are 1/2" or more then welding like was done , just piling on the surface is iffy. Working with this heavy a sections requires more amps. Adjust so beads are relatively flat. I would start at about I would do the root pass each side alternatively to minimize distortion (same with other passes). The rebar spacer, as the op found did not stop distortion.

This would be my process:
Bevel both sides of the verticals leaving a center land same width as rod diameter
Tack up with flat bar spacers at the top like OP finally did
Set amps as hot as you can control the weld puddle by trying on scrap same thickness. Bead should lay relatively flat.
For those not experienced in fillet welds. keep work in a flat position, verticals at a 45 degree angle
Use 6010 for the root pass for its fast freeze character
Fill out with rod of choice, probably 3-4 passes, depending on depth of bevel with slight weave. Width of final pass should be same as the material thickness plus a little with no under cutting
Each pass clean slag out well ,leave none at the edges as next pass will overlap that edge

Practice Practice the average person who does not weld for a living will not get real proficient. Heat can be either your friend or your foe. The better you get the hotter you can set the amps to get thicker flatter beads

LOL Ron

 

[Hersheyfarm]

No, the rebar kept it perfect for first pass. It wasnt til I started putting extra second pass without bracing I experienced warping. Bottle jack got me back to perfect.

 

[950deerehunter]

These plates should be beveled both side and I don't see much penetration. More like a metal glue gun.

 

[LD1]

When I stuck weld, I always make small circles as I 'push' forward.

You shouldn't push stick or flux core mig

 

[5030]

You'll know pretty quick if your welds are serviceable or not....lol. When I do butt welding like that, I always grind a 45 degree (or close to) bevel on the vertical part prior to fitting up. SOP for me. I gage weld penetration by noting the discoloration of the metal on the opposite side of the weldment. Never failed me yet and I repair a lot of loader buckets that owners have abused.

Depending on the thickness of the material to be joined (and the chemical makeup of the material), sets the parameters for how many passes and what kind of wire I use as well as the amperage applied it.

 

[5030]

Fitment and prep is everything, always.

 

[Hersheyfarm]

These plates should be beveled both side and I don't see much penetration. More like a metal glue gun.

No doubt beveling is good practice, I wonder why manufacturers dont. Seems its just sop for the home craftsman. Plus manufacturers all use mig. How does penetration from .35 gsaw compare to stick?

 

[5030]

All depends on amperage and weld speed ( how fast you advance the nozzle as you apply the wire), wet out and other factors.

 

[rangerfredbob]

your red line sketch should work with 3/8" plate, I'd be tempted to leave the original brackets there for structure, and if I'm understanding right you plan on putting a gusset outward, I would gusset from your bracket to the original bracket and add some more plate to the top side otherwise it will taco over time...

 

[Hersheyfarm]

Landed some steel. Local shop cuts pieces for people, odd shapes and the plates just sit there.

64 x 8 x 1/2, plus a peice of 3/16, the newer looking 3/8, and the rusty 3/8(its over 4sqft and paid $50) all for $250. The rusty 3/8 i paid $50 for will do all i need for this bucket.

Works good. Just one more piece to cut tomorrow and put on that will be the backbone for it. Got my template ready.

Wonder how many rattle cans it’ll take?