Steering and loader work slow and jerky

[nckennedy]

JD5425 3000 hrs really great tractor but last two months have had trouble with the hydraulics. Improves some with higher engine speed. Feels the same in cold or warm conditions. Level is up nice, but have never changed the fluid or filter. Any suggestions?
Craig

 

[Hay Dude]

JD5425 3000 hrs really great tractor but last two months have had trouble with the hydraulics. Improves some with higher engine speed. Feels the same in cold or warm conditions. Level is up nice, but have never changed the fluid or filter. Any suggestions?
Craig

So you have never changed your hydraulic filter/fluid in 3000 hours and wonder why you are having hydraulic issues?
I’d change the fluid and filter right away and hope that’s the only thing you have to do.
Good luck!

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Check for a screen filter also. You just need to clean it out and put back in.

 

[amhicks21]

Hopefully the filter is just so plugged that its causing cavitation. Considering the hydro system service interval is 600 hours, theres a pretty good chance that its trashed.

 

[Hay Dude]

If his hydraulic filter is a magnetic base “donut”, it may be plugged with metal flakes.

 

[nckennedy]

Ok thanks guys, your comments make sense. I see in the manual that there seems to be two or three separate reseviours for the hydraulic oil. Is that correct? one is for the sysciShuttle -10 gals. and one for the power Reverse 12 gal. So that's a lot of oil. Do you normally use the JD HyGuard, or something else like from Tractor Supply? HyGuard seems to be nearly twice as much as others. Is it better stuff?
So I do I find the drain plugs?
Thanks for your help with this.
Craig

 

[rScotty]

Between new oil and cleaning/replacing filters, the filters are the more important element. If the oil can't get through the clogged up filters, it can't get to the pump. When increasing the revs doesn't help any more, the hydraulic pump will be scrap.

On which oil to use, look at it this way: The original oil was probably HyGuard. It's not only twice as expensive, it's probably better. The original oil lasted 3000 hrs. How can you argue with that?
rScotty

 

[5030]

Between new oil and cleaning/replacing filters, the filters are the more important element. If the oil can't get through the filters, what good is it?

On which oil to use, look at it this way: The original oil was probably HyGuard. It's not only twice as expensive, it's probably better. The original oil lasted 3000 hrs. How can you argue with that?
rScotty

I wonder if it lasted 3000 hours or if it's totally shot and destroying the system? I'd never, never consider running any lube oil that far, motor or gearbox.

 

[5030]

If it was mine, I think I'd spruce it up and trade it in.....Why change the oil when you can change the tractor instead....lol

 

[rScotty]

I wonder if it lasted 3000 hours or if it's totally shot and destroying the system? I'd never, never consider running any lube oil that far, motor or gearbox.

I don't think we are talking about running the same oil 3000 hrs, more about whether to replace it with Tractor Supply generic or HyGard. He's in NY. I'd use Hy-Gard in their winter viscosity.

 

[5030]

I don't think we are talking about running the same oil 3000 hrs, more about whether to replace it with Tractor Supply generic or HyGard. He's in NY. I'd use Hy-Gard in their winter viscosity.

I think we are..... From the op's original post...."but have never changed the fluid or filter. " Stuff has to be NASTY. Kind of puts me in mind of the Forrest Gump line 'stupid is as stupid does'... I wouldn't use Tractor Supply generic hydraulic fluid for anything but fire starter.

 

[nckennedy]

Hi Guys I changed the HyGuard, filter and cleaned the long screen cylinder next to the PTO. Everything looked fine. Filter didn't seem heavy, just a few metal fillings in the screen. Have starting it up it seems to act about the same as it did before I changed the oil and filter. Some think it is cavitation problem, but I do not hear any load banging or popping, etc.
Could there be a small air leak in the suction side of the system? Not sure how to check for that though!

 

[rScotty]

Hi Guys I changed the HyGuard, filter and cleaned the long screen cylinder next to the PTO. Everything looked fine. Filter didn't seem heavy, just a few metal fillings in the screen. Have starting it up it seems to act about the same as it did before I changed the oil and filter. Some think it is cavitation problem, but I do not hear any load banging or popping, etc.
Could there be a small air leak in the suction side of the system? Not sure how to check for that though!

OK. What you did means you don't have a cavitation problem. That's real good to know.

Yes, it could still be an air leak in the suction side. Or it could be a suction leak in the pump drive seal.
Look for a suction leak on the line from the sump to the pump inlet first. It's easiest.

Two general clues to a suction leak somewhere in the suction side are:

1. In the suction line, when the engine is off, you will find a few drops of oil accumulating on one of the suction line joints. Check the suction line between sump, filters, and intake to the pump. It should be dry. If oil is escaping when it isn't running, then it is sucking air when running. Look especially at any rubber hose to metal fittings.
2. A suction leak will often cause new hydraulic oil to look cloudy instead of transparent. If yours is cloudy after it runs for a few minutes then you may be seeing micro bubbles from a suction leak either in the suction line or the pump. Suck up an oil sample and put it into a jar for an hour to see if the cloudiness goes away. If so, it was micro-bubbles. ALL systems will have some cloudiness, and an otherwise good hydraulic system can handle some air. So this is not a real good test.

About the only other ways a hydraulic system can be weak and need full throttle to perform are all mechanical:
It could be a bad/stuck/broken spring in a pressure relief valve - usually found on the loader control. Or the same on the proportional valve that regulates power steering vs loader pressure. .
Or it could be a worn hydraulic pump.
None of those are the end of the world. Some cost more than others, but all are easy to replace.
You find those mechanical things by making up a pressure gauge and checking pressure at various places.

Look for a suction leak in the line first. Then a bad relief valve second. A real bad relief valve will squeal or rattle.
good luck,
rScotty

 

[duffer]

You might want to try disconnecting each of the hydraulic lines, cleaning the ends and reinstalling them. Might have an air leak on one of them. If that doesn't work, then I'd start checking O rings on the connections, or the tightness of the fittings to the valve controller, as well as the other end of the lines.

 

[xrjohndeere]

Does the tractor have multiple inline filter screens and maybe missed one? Sounds like a flow issue. You could be sucking air or you may have a weak hydraulic pump not flowing/pumping to spec. I think if you where getting air in the system you would find a leak somewhere on the suction side.

 

[LD1]

Did you buy the tractor new? Did you really go 3000hrs on the same oil and never change it or is that just a misunderstanding that hasnt been addressed? Like say you bought the tractor with 2500hrs on the clock and you havent changed it "yet"?

Have you ever changed the engine oil and filter?

Proper maintenance is pennies compared to lack of maintenance in the grand scheme of tractor ownership.

If you indeed went 3000hrs and never changed the fluid or filters.....who knows whats wore out or trashed that is causing your issues. If this is just a misunderstanding, please add some information to clarify.

 

[nckennedy]

Thanks guys for the input. I bought the tractor second hand and then added a loader. The hours were under 1000. After destroying the drain plug at the bottom of the transmission I am thinking that the oil and filter were changed at some point. Everything looked great. I change the engine oil and filter at least once a year which is normally under 500hrs. We only use the tractor to handle big round bales, some fire wood, and clipping pastures with a 8' 3pt rotary mower. It really is on light duty. Air conditioning still works well, etc. So I am surpized that we are having trouble with hydraulics.
So finding a leak in the suction side, I think would be difficult! Since air would be sucked into the pipes, right? Any suggestions other than laying your hand on each connection?
Thanks

 

[rScotty]

Suctions air leaks that happen when the engine is running become oil drips when the engine is off. So crawl under and just look at the suction line when the engine is off. If a suction hose or fitting has even a tiny bit of clean oil leaking out - and a film of oily dirt on it from the leak....then that leak means it is probably sucking air somewhere nearby when the engine is running. Usually it is where a rubber suction hose attaches to a steel line or fitting.

For more info read #13.
rScotty

 

[nckennedy]

Wow, great tip. I will take a look today.

 

[rScotty]

Wow, great tip. I will take a look today.

Yeah, I learned it from the JD mechanic. I asked him about why I had oil on the 310's big suction hose even though the hose looked good and the ends were tight with double hose clamps. He told me about the way that the hose splits internally on the ends due to the hot oil. Then he pulled it off and showed me. Sure enough.....
rScotty