My tractor is a Yanmar YT359C and I am looking for a heavy duty rear blade 8’ long. Does anyone manufacture a rear blade that is set up for hydraulic but can be purchased without the cylinders. My plan is to use it manually at first and then I want to talk to Brian at Fit Rite about purchasing the cylinders for offset, tilt and angle. Also I would like a blade weight of approximately 800 pounds give or take! Thanks
Rear Blade Rear scrape blade
- Thread starter Andy64
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jyoutz
Super Star Member
Bison blades. I have one, 1000# but it’s category 2 pins. I really like my blade because it tilts and offsets but it’s a lot to muscle around by hand. I do it but am careful to be on level ground when adjusting because the weight will pull the blade when you remove the pins. It’s currently selling for $2700 in 8’ length.
Last edited:
warrendeere
Silver Member
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Everything attachments has some very nice options as well
gasman1075
Bronze Member
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Where are you located ? I am in upstate NY and have an extra 8' Land Pride that is very heavy and in good shape
jyoutz
Super Star Member
Yes, but 6-9 months waiting list
CADplans
Elite Member
The BIGGEST problem with deleting the hydraulic cylinders (as mentioned by jyoutz)
is the DANGER in changing blade position.
When you pull a pin, if you are not on perfectly level ground,, that blade starts to accelerate its repositioning!!
Once it starts to go,,, that weight can really surprise you!! It just wants to KEEP GOING!!
You think you can stop it,, but, that may not be true,,
On a slight grade, you could quickly loose a finger, hand,, or worse.
When I re-position my Bush Hog 7 foot blade, it can get away from me,,
and I doubt it weighs 1/3 of what that 8 foot blade weighs.
I am 6'7",, so I am not a little guy,, I would never consider repositioning that 8 foot blade,,
unless the machine was in the shop, on known level concrete.
When that blade is not moving, it is easy to pull the pin,,
once it starts moving, it is crazy hard to control,, inertia is a VERY strong force multiplier!!
is the DANGER in changing blade position.
When you pull a pin, if you are not on perfectly level ground,, that blade starts to accelerate its repositioning!!
Once it starts to go,,, that weight can really surprise you!! It just wants to KEEP GOING!!
You think you can stop it,, but, that may not be true,,
On a slight grade, you could quickly loose a finger, hand,, or worse.
When I re-position my Bush Hog 7 foot blade, it can get away from me,,
and I doubt it weighs 1/3 of what that 8 foot blade weighs.
I am 6'7",, so I am not a little guy,, I would never consider repositioning that 8 foot blade,,
unless the machine was in the shop, on known level concrete.
When that blade is not moving, it is easy to pull the pin,,
once it starts moving, it is crazy hard to control,, inertia is a VERY strong force multiplier!!
jyoutz
Super Star Member
Very true. But I’m able to make it work by being on level ground or with the tractor facing slightly uphill. I am just careful to not do this when the blade is side sloped. Also, it’s not a matter of deleting hydraulics, the blades are sold for manual operation with the brackets attached for conversion to hydraulic if you choose that. Of course hydraulics are better, but I don’t have rear remotes and adding them plus hydraulics to the blade is over $3500. A future wish list item, but not today. If I used the blade every day, I would think differently.The BIGGEST problem with deleting the hydraulic cylinders (as mentioned by jyoutz)
is the DANGER in changing blade position.
When you pull a pin, if you are not on perfectly level ground,, that blade starts to accelerate its repositioning!!
Once it starts to go,,, that weight can really surprise you!! It just wants to KEEP GOING!!
You think you can stop it,, but, that may not be true,,
On a slight grade, you could quickly loose a finger, hand,, or worse.
When I re-position my Bush Hog 7 foot blade, it can get away from me,,
and I doubt it weighs 1/3 of what that 8 foot blade weighs.
I am 6'7",, so I am not a little guy,, I would never consider repositioning that 8 foot blade,,
unless the machine was in the shop, on known level concrete.
When that blade is not moving, it is easy to pull the pin,,
once it starts moving, it is crazy hard to control,, inertia is a VERY strong force multiplier!!
What model blade do you have and could you send me some pics of it please. I am in Virginia. My email is shiff3@gmail.com
Thomas
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Check out Woods products.
gasman1075
Bronze Member
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I just emailed them to you.
I still don’t have them. Can you try again please
jyoutz
Super Star Member
Another reason why I keep my blade manual. When plowing snow or grading my gravel roads, I like to turn the blade 180 degrees and work with the back of the moldboard. Not easy to do with hydraulics.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Have you been in contact with Brian about building the cylinders?
I guess I'm not sure why you want him to build them rather than the exact ones the OEM uses. And it is probably gonna be cheaper to just get the blade from the MFG with them already set up.
But, quite a few heavy duty blades are indeed setup for cylinders already. The just use a telescoping mechanism or ratchet mechanism in place of cylinders.
I guess I'm not sure why you want him to build them rather than the exact ones the OEM uses. And it is probably gonna be cheaper to just get the blade from the MFG with them already set up.
But, quite a few heavy duty blades are indeed setup for cylinders already. The just use a telescoping mechanism or ratchet mechanism in place of cylinders.
JohnnyMX
Gold Member
On my EA landscape rake, it has the same mechanics when adjusting it. I just adjust the tension on the rake so it is somewhere between won't budge and fidget spinner so I can use it without worry. Common sense always prevails.
MechanicalGuy
Platinum Member
A couple things;
1. Brian is very high on his cylinders imo. Bad plan to for go the cylinders and then get him to make them later.
2. I have an 8' land pride and I unpin it constantly, and unless I'm on a very steep angle, it's super easy to turn and position because it seems to be perfectly balanced.
3. I use my hydraulic top link with it, and then I use a switch between offset and blade angle for my 2nd remote, and then I use the third remote for angle depth into the ground.
Just buy a land pride at 0% interest and get it the way you want it from day 1.
1. Brian is very high on his cylinders imo. Bad plan to for go the cylinders and then get him to make them later.
2. I have an 8' land pride and I unpin it constantly, and unless I'm on a very steep angle, it's super easy to turn and position because it seems to be perfectly balanced.
3. I use my hydraulic top link with it, and then I use a switch between offset and blade angle for my 2nd remote, and then I use the third remote for angle depth into the ground.
Just buy a land pride at 0% interest and get it the way you want it from day 1.
MechanicalGuy
Platinum Member
For what reason? The cylinders are sized so they don't damage the blade. They are appropriately sized.
You're not doing yourself any favors. You're making things hard on yourself.
