Deep Cycle Battery in Pickup

   / Deep Cycle Battery in Pickup #1  

Mudfarmer

Gold Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2009
Messages
381
Location
Western Washington
Tractor
JD 3005, Kubota B2710, Kubota B2650 (sold the ford 1700 and kubota B7100)
I have two batteries in my 2011 Chev Silverado PU attached in parallel to the alternator. One is for the pickup the other for winch, inverter, etc. The latter is near the end of it's life. My question is can I replace it with a deep cycle battery; will the alternator charge a deep cycle battery without difficulty; if my main battery goes dead can I jump-start the truck from a deep cycle battery?

MF
 
   / Deep Cycle Battery in Pickup #2  
I have two batteries in my 2011 Chev Silverado PU attached in parallel to the alternator. One is for the pickup the other for winch, inverter, etc. The latter is near the end of it's life. My question is can I replace it with a deep cycle battery; will the alternator charge a deep cycle battery without difficulty; if my main battery goes dead can I jump-start the truck from a deep cycle battery?

MF
If they're hooked up in parallel, how do you separate their work load? Is there a battery isolater in there somewhere?
 
   / Deep Cycle Battery in Pickup
  • Thread Starter
#4  
In answer to last two posts: Professionally wired regulator - I don't know anything more about that. Gas engine.
 
   / Deep Cycle Battery in Pickup #5  
I have two batteries in my 2011 Chev Silverado PU attached in parallel to the alternator. One is for the pickup the other for winch, inverter, etc. The latter is near the end of it's life. My question is can I replace it with a deep cycle battery; will the alternator charge a deep cycle battery without difficulty; if my main battery goes dead can I jump-start the truck from a deep cycle battery?

MF
You may need to look up and understand what happens to batteries if they are truly in parallel.

If they are protected between eachother, the second one might not be damaged. If they are not, the other battery is likely already damaged from over charging.
 
   / Deep Cycle Battery in Pickup #6  
You should have two like batteries i.e. Same capacity and health. If one is down it will always drain the other one. Also there is a risk of overcharging a lower capacity battery to bring the bigger one up to full charge.
 
   / Deep Cycle Battery in Pickup #8  
The two batteries are protected from each other.
Then you probably have a battery isolator in there somewhere. In that case, there would be no problems installing a deep cycle for the winch. The other battery will handle the starting. But they aren't exactly in parallel, if that is the case as well.
 
   / Deep Cycle Battery in Pickup #9  
I’ve seen what he’s talking about. Offroaders install a kit so that running the winch, lights, and/or other utilities use a different battery than the starter and other necessities. Generally they also upgrade the alternator.
Most likely what the rest of you are calling a battery isolator? 🤓
 
   / Deep Cycle Battery in Pickup #10  
What does the owners manual say about battery replacement/separation?

Here are a couple basic battery rules. Batteries that are in parallel with no separation; if you replace one, the weaker older one will become a parasitic load on the new battery. In this case, you replace in pairs. A deep cycle battery is not designed for repeated intermittent starting loads. If properly separated and controlled, then you can replace either battery without regard for the other.

My experience is in RVs. These will have an electronic separator (diodes) that will allow charging current from the alternator to recharge the winch battery, but not allow current to flow from the starting battery to the winch. In RVs, there is usually a manual bypass switch on the dash that allows using the deep cycle (winch) battery to start the engine in an emergency.

You really need to dig into this and understand your circuit before proceeding.
 
   / Deep Cycle Battery in Pickup
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I'm pretty sure these batteries are separated (since that's what I wanted from the installer). As confirmation, when the starting battery died a year ago, the winch battery was fine and had plenty of juice to start the engine - I just placed one jumper cable from positive to positive. I'll check with the installer for an opinion.
 
   / Deep Cycle Battery in Pickup #12  
I'm pretty sure these batteries are separated (since that's what I wanted from the installer). As confirmation, when the starting battery died a year ago, the winch battery was fine and had plenty of juice to start the engine - I just placed one jumper cable from positive to positive. I'll check with the installer for an opinion.
then your fine, if the wires go to a box or a solenoid, then they are separated. the deep cycle will be fine, and is what prolly should have been used in the first place
 
   / Deep Cycle Battery in Pickup #13  
IMHO a deep cycle battery wasn't designed for automotive use being continually attached to alternator. Deep cycle were designed for tasks such as operating a boat trolling motor which discharges battery of the majority of stored electricity & repeatedly being recharged.

I agree 12 volt batteries attached in parallel need to be equal in size & age. I've had experience with this type battery arrangement on JD tractor since 1993 when I purchased my JD 4255 tractor
 
   / Deep Cycle Battery in Pickup #14  
there is no difference between a starting and deep cycle battery other then plate design, one is designed to give large bursts of energy for short durations, the other last longer at lower usage rates. DOD or Depth of discharge determines the life cycle of a battery, 1000's of short discharges is better then a couple deep discharges, being hooked to a charging source does not hurt it, although it becomes sulfated. this will also occur with a starting battery.
 
   / Deep Cycle Battery in Pickup #15  
One question I’d be asking is if an alternator charges at the correct voltage for the deep cycle (or an AGM type if you went that route).
I think the alternator puts out a voltage slightly lower than the deep cycle wants to ‘fully charge’ and does not have the smarts to properly cut off when it’s charged properly. You can get a DC-DC charger but they tend to be a bit pricy.
 
   / Deep Cycle Battery in Pickup #16  
I'm pretty sure these batteries are separated (since that's what I wanted from the installer). As confirmation, when the starting battery died a year ago, the winch battery was fine and had plenty of juice to start the engine - I just placed one jumper cable from positive to positive. I'll check with the installer for an opinion.

OK, so that answers the basic question. You have a separate battery system which is isolated as far as load goes.

So the answer to your original question is "yes", You can mix and match batteries without any problem.

The only downside is a slight one, and involves common charging systems. And only happens when one battery is a flooded cell and the other is an AGM. In that case, because most OEM voltage regulators are set to so that their output charges a flooded cell battery most efficiently, then then there is a chance that the AGM battery will not ever be fully charged.
But it will be close. Very close. My bet is that you'll never notice the slight loss.
rScotty
 
   / Deep Cycle Battery in Pickup #17  
My service truck uses 3 deep cycle starting batteries. 2 exclusively for the inverter and and one for engine start that can be switched for inverter use. They get switched out every 3 years.
 
   / Deep Cycle Battery in Pickup #18  
My service truck uses 3 deep cycle starting batteries. 2 exclusively for the inverter and and one for engine start that can be switched for inverter use. They get switched out every 3 years.

That's a good way to do it. In fact, I do it the same way.
Plus there is a manual over-ride to start it with all batteries if needed.
rScotty
 
   / Deep Cycle Battery in Pickup #19  
One question I’d be asking is if an alternator charges at the correct voltage for the deep cycle (or an AGM type if you went that route).
I think the alternator puts out a voltage slightly lower than the deep cycle wants to ‘fully charge’ and does not have the smarts to properly cut off when it’s charged properly. You can get a DC-DC charger but they tend to be a bit pricy.

Never make that assumption about alternators/generators on vehicles or tractors. They generally output 13.8V-21V, very few put out a rectified 12V or less than 12V (if they did they would never recharge the battery, they would only keep up with the vehicles power demand, or in the case of less your lights start flickering).

Older tractors are slightly different in that they usually have almost no power draw unless the lights are on. Had one tractor that needed to be disconnected after starting because it would happily boil the battery dry.

Alternators are not intelligent charging devices, they do not have the capability to properly charge or maintain batteries, and that is not what they are there for. Propper battery charging is not voltage based, it is current and temperature based.

Myself I use an inverter-charge controller inline on my RV deepcell batteries, it controls when to limit current due to battery temperature or capacity, when to shutoff supply to protect each of the batteries, and when it needs to balance.

When the batteries are out, they live on a charger that has the capability to exercise them. One could use a trickle charger, but I feel that shortens the life of deepcell/high discharge batteries.

The average, generic, non-regulated, alternator output is supposed to be around 14.5-14.8V I have always been told.
 
   / Deep Cycle Battery in Pickup #20  
Check your isolator/combiner to see what the voltage loss is. In boats, which often run deep cycle & starting batteries side by side for draws/joined for charging, the isolators tend to lose some voltage on the charge side due to the diodes whereas the combiners run full voltage from the alternator using a solenoid set-up. Isolator can result in undercharging & shorter life on the deep cycles & may limit the type of replacement battery you should look at (lead acid/gel/AGM). Combiners can fry your starting battery by overcharging when the Deep cycles are significantly lower in charge status unless they have monitoring & switching capabilities for the two banks. Chances are you have an isolator since they are cheaper & if you can live with reduced battery life on the deep cycle side, go for any size that will fit the space & won't overtax your alternator. You can desulfate/recondition as necessary with a good "smart" battery charger to try & extend deep cycle battery life.
 

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