Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[Yogi05]

I found some kind of tack or small nail with the sawmill today too. Painless. Was over with in a flash and no discernible damage.

That brand new chainsaw wouldn't start again today. It's going back for a refund this time. 2 in a row is not a fluke saw, it's a
crap product.

Stopped on the way home and bought another new chain for my Homelite saw (that needs some convincing but at least
it starts).
Also bought one of the Oregon chain files with the clip thing that John_Mc referred to.
I didn't really want to buy another new chain but I don't have time to get proficient at sharpening, and tomorrow is tree cutting
day to replenish my beam stock. I likely need 7 trees to finish off my supply.

I'm hoping to get done by the end of the week then I can find a way to get the supply home and start tearing down my old wall.
Can't wait to see what's in store for me while doing that.

I've put the small logs aside for now. The ones I misjudged and can't get 6x6" out of. I can mill them to 4x4 for another task I
have on the books.

I have decided my log dogs are definitely a hindrance due to not holding well enough. A work around today was to jam part of a wll-rounded slab
under the log while using the dogs too. Worked well. I think I'll cut some wedges tomorrow from the small stock I have and see how that
works for me.

I mentioned I was consistently getting a 6x 6 1/4 while milling. I was changing things each time I did a cut today and I think I stumbled on
my problem. Pilot error. I changed the way I was marking and measuring my cuts and turned out perfect 6x6s after a while. Embarrassing, but
as you've all seen I'm willing to share the not so proud moments too .

Can sawdust building up on the rubber of the drive wheels cause them to slip and burn the rubber a bit? I am getting a rubber burning smell
and a squeal once in a while and the blade won't power through stuff like it did a week ago. I can't hear the source over all the noise and I
don't see any smoke so I don't know if it's drive wheels or the belt off the clutch. There's very little rubber left on the wheels and they will
eventually have to be replaced I guess. All I could see that struck me as out of place was a layer of sawdust on the wheel rubber.
In the mean time I have to go a little slower at times.

That huge log I cut down the middle to get 2 cants from was beyond my, and the saws capability (too big and heavy for the dogs to hold safely)
and I set the second half aside till I get better at this stuff.

Glass half full - I'm getting there. 35 something logs done out of 56 needed. More than half way done and rolling right along.
But man, am I feeling it at the end of the day But I've lost 4 lbs doing some physical stuff for a change instead of sitting for 10 hours
a day when I had a job

 

[BackRoad]

Mr. Yogi, almost hesitant to post this with the 1000 years of combined experience on this thread, though you've mentioned hard starting saws.

Generally with a cold saw - Choke on till it false fires (tries to start the first time), stop pulling and turn the Choke off...

It should then start within another 2-3 pulls.

It's a common starting process for lots of 2 cycles, and I know my Husqvarna 346XP and 572XP always fire right up when using that sequence.

Key is shutting the Choke off after the first sign of life from the engine to prevent flooding it.

Maybe you're doing it that way already. I also run No-Ethanol gas in the 2 cycle mix, which I perceive helps, but not critical as long as the corn-gas is fresh.

 

[deezler]

Generally with a cold saw - Choke on till it false fires (tries to start the first time), stop pulling and turn the Choke off...

It should then start within another 2-3 pulls.

It's a common starting process for lots of 2 cycles

Key is shutting the Choke off after the first sign of life from the engine to prevent flooding it.

Yeah hopefully he knows all this, but I just wanted to second how important this sequence is for most 2 strokes. Well described.

If my Stihl MS310 has been sitting for a few months or more, it will take 10-15 pulls on full choke to get gas pulled into the carb. Then it goes BRAaammmmp and dies. Then on half-choke, only 1 or 2 more pulls will get it racing hard.

 

[Yogi05]

Mr. Yogi, almost hesitant to post this with the 1000 years of combined experience on this thread, though you've mentioned hard starting saws.

Generally with a cold saw - Choke on till it false fires (tries to start the first time), stop pulling and turn the Choke off...

It should then start within another 2-3 pulls.

It's a common starting process for lots of 2 cycles, and I know my Husqvarna 346XP and 572XP always fire right up when using that sequence.

Key is shutting the Choke off after the first sign of life from the engine to prevent flooding it.

Maybe you're doing it that way already. I also run No-Ethanol gas in the 2 cycle mix, which I perceive helps, but not critical as long as the corn-gas is fresh.

My exact procedure, but thanks.
On the brand new saw I referred to, that has only worked a couple times. And in my frustration I have tried every combination of your reminder with no success.
My old saw starts as you described but lately takes a lot more pulling. When I first fired it up a month ago it had been 4 yrs since I used it. I expected ethanol to
have melted all the hoses (I didn't worry about fuel grade last I used it) but it fired on the 3rd pull.
My problems started after that, and admittedly it needs a couple parts (that are hard to find - not made anymore).

 

[fruitcakesa]

My exact procedure, but thanks.
On the brand new saw I referred to, that has only worked a couple times. And in my frustration I have tried every combination of your reminder with no success.
My old saw starts as you described but lately takes a lot more pulling. When I first fired it up a month ago it had been 4 yrs since I used it. I expected ethanol to
have melted all the hoses (I didn't worry about fuel grade last I used it) but it fired on the 3rd pull.
My problems started after that, and admittedly it needs a couple parts (that are hard to find - not made anymore).

Try a new spark plug in the old saw, might help the 10-15 pull routine

 

[John_Mc]

But man, am I feeling it at the end of the day But I've lost 4 lbs doing some physical stuff for a change instead of sitting for 10 hours
a day when I had a job

Weekend Warrior Syndrome. Been there, done that. Lost 10 lbs this summer clearing for new trails at some jointly owned forestland down the road from my own property. It would be nice if I could keep it off. At least the local supply of Advil is now safe again.

 

[aeblank]

Try a new spark plug in the old saw, might help the 10-15 pull routine

I'd run copious amounts of sea foam through it too.

 

[4570Man]

Mr. Yogi, almost hesitant to post this with the 1000 years of combined experience on this thread, though you've mentioned hard starting saws.

Generally with a cold saw - Choke on till it false fires (tries to start the first time), stop pulling and turn the Choke off...

It should then start within another 2-3 pulls.

It's a common starting process for lots of 2 cycles, and I know my Husqvarna 346XP and 572XP always fire right up when using that sequence.

Key is shutting the Choke off after the first sign of life from the engine to prevent flooding it.

Maybe you're doing it that way already. I also run No-Ethanol gas in the 2 cycle mix, which I perceive helps, but not critical as long as the corn-gas is fresh.

That’s how I start my saws. Except my 372 XP won’t start worth a flip if the gas isn’t topped off first. My theory is it pressurizes the gas tank and since liquid doesn’t compress it takes less time to build pressure on a full tank. But that’s just my theory.

 

[Hilbilly]

I'm just a home firewood guy and cut about 6 cords a year for the last 25 years. I've always hand sharpened and I like the roller guide mentioned before. I also have a few other hand sharpening guides, from simple to clamp on and I find the simplest ones seem to work well. The clamp on one sucks and takes too much time to set up for my liking. I also bought an electric sharpener from Princess Auto (Canadian version of HF) about a year ago just because it was on sale for $30. I just recently tried it for the first time and find it is quick and easy to use especially when I accidentally rock my chain (which hardly ever happens because I hate hand sharpening a chain that badly damaged). But I still hand sharpen in the field if the need arises. The one concern I have is that after using the electric sharpener I end up with a square cut tooth and that will mean a lot more work hand sharpening next time or I will have to carry a spare chain and only use the electric sharpener. I will need some time to see which method I prefer.

The one process I hate is hand sharpening the rakers. Maybe I need to get another cheap electric sharpener and set that up just for rakers. In any case firewood gathering is over for this year so I will need to wait until next year to see which process I prefer.

 

[4570Man]

I'm just a home firewood guy and cut about 6 cords a year for the last 25 years. I've always hand sharpened and I like the roller guide mentioned before. I also have a few other hand sharpening guides, from simple to clamp on and I find the simplest ones seem to work well. The clamp on one sucks and takes too much time to set up for my liking. I also bought an electric sharpener from Princess Auto (Canadian version of HF) about a year ago just because it was on sale for $30. I just recently tried it for the first time and find it is quick and easy to use especially when I accidentally rock my chain (which hardly ever happens because I hate hand sharpening a chain that badly damaged). But I still hand sharpen in the field if the need arises. The one concern I have is that after using the electric sharpener I end up with a square cut tooth and that will mean a lot more work hand sharpening next time or I will have to carry a spare chain and only use the electric sharpener. I will need some time to see which method I prefer.

The one process I hate is hand sharpening the rakers. Maybe I need to get another cheap electric sharpener and set that up just for rakers. In any case firewood gathering is over for this year so I will need to wait until next year to see which process I prefer.

I don’t like hand filing the rakers. I usually just give them a quick bump on the bench grinder. Once the grinder marks wear off I give them another bump. About the square grind it sounds like you’re using the wrong wheel. Probably the one made to grind rakers.