My Tanaka chainsaw stopped running so I realized that no fuel was getting through the carb so I took it apart and found that it is clogged and I can't get it cleared. I'd appreciate help if you have experience with this sort of thing. I posted a video to show the situation on Youtube. The link is below. Thanks.
Tanaka clogged carb
- Thread starter Hogarth
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5030
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New carb time and let me give you a hint, when you are done using it for an extended period, run it dry as in run it dry and choke it to suck every last drop of weasel pee gas out of it.
I use Stihl pre mix in mine (have the same saw you do) and the bottles of Stihl pre mix have stabilizer in them but I still take no chances. All my saws (1 Tanaka and 3 Stihl's) get run dry when I store them over a month.
You might get it unclogged with Berrymans B12 chem tool, maybe, but gasoline is a non starter in more ways than one.
I use Stihl pre mix in mine (have the same saw you do) and the bottles of Stihl pre mix have stabilizer in them but I still take no chances. All my saws (1 Tanaka and 3 Stihl's) get run dry when I store them over a month.
You might get it unclogged with Berrymans B12 chem tool, maybe, but gasoline is a non starter in more ways than one.
Thanks for the tips. For a few bucks I think I'll try the B12 before springing for the new carb.New carb time and let me give you a hint, when you are done using it for an extended period, run it dry as in run it dry and choke it to suck every last drop of weasel pee gas out of it.
I use Stihl pre mix in mine (have the same saw you do) and the bottles of Stihl pre mix have stabilizer in them but I still take no chances. All my saws (1 Tanaka and 3 Stihl's) get run dry when I store them over a month.
You might get it unclogged with Berrymans B12 chem tool, maybe, but gasoline is a non starter in more ways than one.
Roadworthy
Elite Member
When I don't plan to run small engines for a bit - like over winter, I'll either run them dry or empty the fuel tank and then try to start it to run the last fuel out of the lines. To prevent problems I run an ounce of Marvel Mystery Oil per gallon of fuel though I've had good luck with Sea Foam as well. Depending on the model, the carburetor (new) for your chainsaw can be $15 and up on eBay.
RandyT
Elite Member
Does this carb use a primer bulb(two fuel nipple on carb) or just a single fuel line setup. If it has a primer bulb then just go ahead and get the new carb, because at this point the check valves will either be stuck open and not prime, or stuck shut and won't allow fuel through the main fuel jet.
Thanks.
It has a primer bulb, yeah.
RandyT
Elite Member
That is the main reason why repair shops just replace the carb most of the time. Your chances of getting it cleaned, and reassembled with new repair parts and not have a check valve stick is about 50/50 if using just soap and water to clean it. If carb cleaner is introduced then the chances are about 10/90 because carb cleaner swells the rubber disc in the check valves.
I can't find this carb anywhere. I don't know if I am looking for the wrong number or what. If you can figure this out and tell me where to get one I'd appreciate it.
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RandyT
Elite Member
Looks like everywhere I would normally looks for parts is showing it out of stock. Found prices from $78-154 so I would be attempted to just try installing a repair kit K27-WAT and see what happens.
Wow. I was not aware of that. Lesson learned. Hopefully the Berrymans B12 will do the job.
RandyT
Elite Member
Do not use any time of solvent that is not rubber safe. Doing so will swell the check valves and make the carb unrepairable in most cases.
5030
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I use B12 in my heated ultrasonic cleaner for all sots of stuff. I really does the job with coagulated e-gas in a jug. I here the 'Gunk' stuff is pretty good too.
You still have to strip the carb apart and 'dunk' it minus the rubber parts.
You still have to strip the carb apart and 'dunk' it minus the rubber parts.
What is a good brand?
Tanaka is not chinese junk. It is a high quality japanese product.
Not properly taking care of equipment will wreck the best made stuff out there. Leaving fuel to go bad in a small engine is hardly the manufacturer's fault.
5030
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I'll respectfully disagree with your comment. Tanaka is the Chinese offshoot of Makita. Makita uses Tanaka to build second tier equipment in China copying Makita's lines. IOW, Tanaka is the lower cost alternative to Makita.
A quick google search indicates we are both right. Some Tanaka parts are made in China and there have been some ownership buyouts. Hitachi was listed as one. Did not see anything about Makita.
5030
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I happen to have the same saw the OP has and it's a nice trimming saw but the one thing I do with all my saws (have 4 of them, mostly Stihl) is, I drain all the gas out when they are sitting idle, drain out the gas and then start them on choke to suck them completely dry. Don't drain the the bar oil out, just the gas. I can let them sit for years, refill the gas tanks, couple pulls and they run just peachy.
I too have a Tanaka saw, a pole saw, as well as a Stihl which extends. Much prefer the Tanaka. It is a very high quality saw. Tanaka is not popular in the US and they only make smaller saws, 50 cc is about it. I cut a lot as I have an outdoor wood furnace and a sawmill. I have Stihl, Husqvarna, Dolmar, Echo, Solo and Efco saws. Mostly the pro models. I had saw fever for several years!
Agree the best aproach is to drain them and run them dry. I also use Non-Ethanol fuel exclusively.
Agree the best aproach is to drain them and run them dry. I also use Non-Ethanol fuel exclusively.
