My Industrial Cabin Build

   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,531  
Seems that Pex A gets a better rating than Pex B in regards to burst pressure and flexibility. Most who use Pex B are saying to upsize your pipe to the next size to get the better flow. Think i would not have put drywall up, but instead just put up some good one side plywood. The plywood would be more durable than the drywall if you get a water leak or need to remove fasteners or the manifolds. Hope you had a great time with your kids and grandkids....its will let you wind down and have some fun !!
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,532  
Interesting video. I enjoyed seeing that tool that you use for connecting the PEX. I've never seen anything like it. Why didn't you mount your plumbing to a sheet of plywood?

When you apply joint compound, mix it first. That will make it soft and easy to spread. The apply it in long, smooth strokes, then remove the excess. Use a stiff knife, the cheaper ones bend way too much.

When painting with a roller, use a 6 foot pole. It's ten times easier and faster to stand straight up and put the roller in the tray, then while still standing, to roll from the bottom of the wall, to the top of the wall. The only time I take off the pole is when I'm in a tight spot and I can't maneuver it.

Zinnsser 123 is by far the very best primer that I've ever come across for brand new sheetrock. It's on the shelf right next to Kilz, which has always disappointed me.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build
  • Thread Starter
#2,533  
We put up osb then drywall. I wanted to make sure I don’t get dinged by inspectors.
I’ve thought about some plywood when I do the plumbing for the heated floors.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,534  
Make sure get your framing rough in inspections, mech, elec, plumb, before you get too much drywall up...
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build
  • Thread Starter
#2,535  
Yeah. That is the only drywall I plan to put up. The rest will be hired out after the inspection.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,536  
Great progress on your build and getting all the service lines in/run, I applaud your balance of life and work too!

What is the plan/timeline for the electrical service tie in and power to the house panel? Then the well install etc.?
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build
  • Thread Starter
#2,537  
I dropped another video this morning.
Plan for electric tie in is as soon as possible. I have been trying to get an electrician I used previously when I had my camper up here, but everyone is so busy, it is hard to hire anyone. Things just aren’t happening fast. But I’m still working on it.

 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,538  
Gettin' there! You see now what I mean about order of work? Those vents do not care what is in the way, they must go UP! I do hope you sloped the horizontal vent runs too. I couldn't tell from the video.

You need to think ahead a lot when building for the first time. Siding? You did a bunch and then moved inside. It would be highly advisable to get that done by the time winter sets in. The Tyvek is already technically way overexposed per it's specs. I forget what they say but I think it is 90 or 120 days. But I did the same and left it at least partially open for a year and a half. Bad move but that is reality of DIY...

Get your vents/drains wrapped up and poked through the roof. I would also look at getting elec service at least to the point of a main panel and then power up a couple outlets but do not start wiring the entire house yet. Typically people use the bathroom outlets as the temps as they need to be GFI already and temp stuff has to be GFI too. If the outlets get munged up, replace later.

But after that, you should really try to get that siding done before you even think about more PEX or pulling wires. If you are stuck indoors during rain, then it makes sense to do things like placing outlet/switch boxes where you can, but you would be well advised to button up that exterior before another winter. If you have power, you can get heat and other stuff going for winter better (even temporary) and that makes working indoors much easier. Like drywall. Paint. Wiring. PEX. HVAC. You can always temp hack in circuits for heating equipment. They'll get replaced soon enough for good.

You get that siding done and a few other critical items, and all winter can be interior utility work and by spring you might be close to finish work and thinking about when you might move in.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build
  • Thread Starter
#2,539  
Yeah. There’s always so much to be done. We want to get to the point of drywall so we can get them in here doing that, and we can go outside and finish the siding. I need to take another week off from work and actually be working on the house.
I went ip there today after work. I wanted to cut firewood but it was over 90 even with the sun dipping down behind the mountain. I went inside and it was 88 degrees in there. So I put the rotary cutter on the tractor and started cutting the orchard. On a positive note, the trees look very good and seem to have come thru this dry spell without suffering too much. A few have been defoliated by caterpillars. Since I wasnt trying to get a fruit crop, and had thinned the blooms, I only sprayed Sevin once this year so a very light spray season.
This weekend I will be back in there working on the vent stacks. Yes I put a rise in the horizontal stack line. Just over 1/8 inch per foot. The penetrations are already installed. I had to have those in place when the metal roof was put on. Hopefully, between this weekend and after work next week, I can get all the vent stack done. That may be ambitious but I need to try. It feels like things are starting to drag.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,540  
I really admire your attention to detail and how hard you are working.

In the video, are those two small rooms a closet and a bathroom? Why didn't you make one of those rooms have an 8 foot ceiling and create an attic space to run everything through instead of going to all that effort to run all your lines through those studs?
 

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