Removing / unscrewing a broken off pvc male adaptor

[Ford850]

There are hydrants in the $45 - $65 range at Rural King, TSC, Home Depot. I would go with new and use a brass elbow on the bottom. That elbow takes the stress and I've never have one fail like I have with PVC.
If you do get that PVC out of the hydrant, now would be a good time to rebuild it with a kit.

 

[CH4Ohio]

How much much to replace the unit?

Honestly, that was my initial thought.

We broke one down at the barn a while back. Granted it was older, but since it was buried over 3' deep, I wanted to put a new one back in. Opening the hole and fixing the water line was the harder part of the fix.

 

[plowhog]

At this point it is obvious that rational, economic considerations matter not. The satisfaction of removing the pesky part is priceless.

That's where I am. I could replace it and never notice a blip on my balance sheet. But, I want to overcome the ^$%^$&*# .49-cent part fouling up $100+ device.

At first it seemed so simple. But, now-- I either get it out, or destroy the whole thing trying ...

 

[plowhog]

use a brass elbow on the bottom. ... now would be a good time to rebuild it with a kit.

Good advice, thanks.

 

[kentrodngun]

I also cut with a hacksaw blade, soften with a propane burner and pick it out. It works.

 

[vagem55]

These work well when you have to remove a pipe that's glued into a fitting and save the fitting. It's possible you could use this to drill out the pvc from the male fitting, then glue another piece of pvc back on, either to remove the old male fitting or just to replace what broke.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/EASTMAN-3-4-in-Pipe-Fitting-Saver/1002951698

 

[abcwade]

I have one of these but not with a removable bit. It's the tool that could not be inserted far enough otherwise it bottomed out first.

Many good ideas-- I will try them, and I will look for this same tool with a larger auger. Thanks!

cut the tapered part in half and then it shouldn't bottom out

 

[Diggin It]

That's where I am. I could replace it and never notice a blip on my balance sheet. But, I want to overcome the ^$%^$&*# .49-cent part fouling up $100+ device.

At first it seemed so simple. But, now-- I either get it out, or destroy the whole thing trying ...

If you'd have used a moto-tool (Dremel type) or a small rotary grinder in a drill to grind the plastic bits away, then a wire brush to clean the threads out, you'd have been done in less time than it took to type out the initial post.

Do we need to send Kando over there to get this stuck plug out?