Tractors and wood! Show your pics

   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #17,241  
Yes. Fir with a couple Spruce mixed in. I feel like I'm trying to make a silk purse from a sows ear. :)

It's cut them or let them die or blow over in a couple years.

View attachment 687308

gg

`So explain that notch front center of that stump, did you do a plunge cut?
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #17,242  
For you guys logging or just needing to get traction in the snow ice and frozen woods. I'm looking at tractor chains for the rear tires. I'm not sure where to start I do not need the most aggressive set I just need something that will help the tractor make it up the incline I have to get out of my woods and in the woods moving logs and firewood. Once the path gets frozen over with ice and snow it is difficult to get up. Any suggestions where to start or recommend. I'm also looking for something to not completely destroy the yard to get where I'm going but I do know that the chains are harder on the grass/yard.

There are some good threads about chains here and in the "Snow Removal" section with discussion on the pluses and minuses of various styles. Here's one:

Chains... Age old question... need some advice


To make a long story short (as is explained in more detail in the linked thread and others): I started with studded Ladder-Style chains, then went to Duo-Grip style, each time think these would be "good enough" for my needs. They weren't. I should have gone with the Euro-style from the start. They cost more, but are well worth it. See the link above and some of the other threads for more in-depth description.

You may not need to go all the way to the Euro-style. That depends on your usage and your terrain. I did fine with 4 link ladder style chains for a couple of seasons, but the more I worked in the woods and on side hills, the more I recognized that they were not the best fit for me. The Duo-grips would have been OK if I didn't need to drive over smooth, hard surfaces for long distances at speeds higher than a walk. On the other hand, I have never met a single person who regretted going with the Euro-style chains. I have met plenty who regret their other choices, particularly once they've actualy used a tractor with the Euro style chains installed
 
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   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #17,243  
`So explain that notch front center of that stump, did you do a plunge cut?

Long wedges work better in the winter because they have a shallower taper. Short fast tapered wedges are prone to squirting out on you when the wood is frozen and icy. But a long wedge might bottom out on the hinge before it is fully set. So you bore a slot thru the center of the hinge as a passage for the wedge. Or if the tree has to small a diameter to get a wedge in after the back cut is started then you can put the wedge in before starting the back cut with this method.

Cut out the notch. Lay or hold the saw on the flat of the notch and bore straight back and out the back of the tree. Set the wedge in the back slot. Then make a back cut on each side of the tree slightly over lapping and above the bore cut. Drive in the wedge to tip the tree over. The small sections of vertical grain above the bore cut split very easily.

Tongue and Groove Cut so called very handy here in the frozen north - the land of smallish trees.

tongue_and_groove_0.jpg

Edit:

20_3_9-1.JPG

gg
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #17,244  
Long wedges work better in the winter because they have a shallower taper. Short fast tapered wedges are prone to squirting out on you when the wood is frozen and icy. But a long wedge might bottom out on the hinge before it is fully set. So you bore a slot thru the center of the hinge as a passage for the wedge. Or if the tree has to small a diameter to get a wedge in after the back cut is started then you can put the wedge in before starting the back cut with this method.

Cut out the notch. Lay or hold the saw on the flat of the notch and bore straight back and out the back of the tree. Set the wedge in the back slot. Then make a back cut on each side of the tree slightly over lapping and above the bore cut. Drive in the wedge to tip the tree over. The small sections of vertical grain above the bore cut split very easily.

Tongue and Groove Cut so called very handy here in the frozen north - the land of smallish trees.

View attachment 687325

Edit:

View attachment 687327

gg

:thumbsup: Thank you for the lesson Gordon.

Scott
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #17,246  
I was all over the place this weekend getting firewood thats been cut down since last summer, these trees broke my cable because for some strange reason the tops was frozen to the ground, so I used the loader to loosen tops, then hook back and drag down back and cut limbs off, while winching trees they just missed the 6x6.
L34OO and Fransgard winching - YouTube
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #17,247  
^^^^
That was a pretty good hitch. Did you need the electric winch on top to lift it, or was the 3 pth able to do the job?
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #17,248  
^^^^
That was a pretty good hitch. Did you need the electric winch on top to lift it, or was the 3 pth able to do the job?

3-point lift was just enough, maybe the oak has lost some weight since August.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #17,250  
I was all over the place this weekend getting firewood thats been cut down since last summer, these trees broke my cable because for some strange reason the tops was frozen to the ground, so I used the loader to loosen tops, then hook back and drag down back and cut limbs off, while winching trees they just missed the 6x6.
L34OO and Fransgard winching - YouTube

So what do you do with those twigs once you get them pulled up tight to your tractor?
 

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