Disc Harrow Repair

[Gem99ultra]

I have an old disc harrow with a frozen up pilot bearing. This old harrow was built in the mid-1950's by The Independent Mfg. Co., Inc. in Neodesha, KS. They were in operation from 1954 until about 1957. I've only owned it for about 30 years, but have never used it. It did spend the first 20+ years sitting in the weeds out in a pasture. I'd like to restore it just for the sake of prosperity.

I can see no way to remove the 1.6+ inch nut on the end plate to get to the bearing. Socket wrenches won't go into the opening and there's not enough protrusion to get a pipe wrench on it. If you see a way for me to get into it, I'd appreciate the opinion. I'm quite sure that parts for it, i.e. bearings, are un-obtainable, but perhaps you have some suggestions? Pix's attached

 

[Gary Fowler]

First off, that nut should be on the inside of the blades, not on the outside. Is there another nut on the other end of the axle, I cant believe someone installed it backwards.

Perhaps you can grease up the "bearings" (most likely not really roller or ball bearings in that old disk) that may just be made of hardwood or babbit and a good soaking in oil and grease will free them up if you can get it to roll. Try plowing with it after greasing and see if it will start to roll.

 

[DJ54]

Looks like it would be a whole lot easier to remove the two bolts holding the bearing/axle to the bracket, attaching to the frame. Both bearings, inboard, and outboard if necessary, then lift the frame up off the axle, and roll it out from underneath to work on it. Once the bolts are removed, it should come apart, maybe with some light taps with a brass hammer, or brass drift, hammer & wooden block. Bet it won't take much. Just don't hit it too hard.

Spray those nuts with some penetrate, and let them soak. I prefer a 50/50 mix of Acetone, and ATF, but what ever is handy. Once apart, you should be able to see what kind of bearing you have, clean/replace the grease zerks if needed, and clean the grease ports. Clean up inside in needed, and put back together.

 

[MF243RedTop]

First off, that nut should be on the inside of the blades, not on the outside. Is there another nut on the other end of the axle, I cant believe someone installed it backward.

^^^ This . .
If not..torch the end off buy new axles start over.

 

[MF243RedTop]

The only other idea I have would be to put rachet straps or rachet chain binders around the entire length of the disc .. see if they can be pulled together enough to expose the nut.. to be loosened and taken off..
GL with that project.

 

[Jstpssng]

I have a Dearborne harrow which is even older than yours, and for parts I go to Agri-Supply. Disc Harrow Parts
They may need a little modification to fit but I'm not restoring it, just using it to disc my field.

 

[Gem99ultra]

The only other idea I have would be to put rachet straps or rachet chain binders around the entire length of the disc .. see if they can be pulled together enough to expose the nut.. to be loosened and taken off..
GL with that project.

Now THAT'S a good idea to try. I hadn't even thought about it in that way. I'll try that today; Thanks!

I have pulled the zerks and cleaned them. Several had to be replaced, which I've done. All zerks have taken grease except this one stubborn set, and all but this one turns freely. I can fell some drag on this one so I know it's dry. All bolts, nuts etc. have had a good drenching of PB Blaster. I even have tried shooting some into the zerk socket, but no much luck there. Removing the gang and putting the heat wrench on it may be my last resort, short of replacing it.

I'm hoping to salvage the original though. There's probably no real value in it other than for my own satisfaction. Thanks to all for the suggestions.

 

[Tx Jim]

The only other idea I have would be to put rachet straps or rachet chain binders around the entire length of the disc .. see if they can be pulled together enough to expose the nut.. to be loosened and taken off..
GL with that project.

Disk shafts were designed to be operated with end shaft nut very tight. I seriously doubt a tightened ratchet strap will cause nut to extend out of bumper. Back in the 60'-70's I assembled disk shafts with disk/ brgs & spacers AND tightened the nuts utilizing cheater pipes on the wrenches to get the nuts VERY TIGHT.

I agree with DJ54 to remove both bolts on each disk gang hanger then separate each brg halve the remove rust/dirt from white iron brg parts then reassemble & apply more grease to the grease fitting. Then go to disking.

It would be very interesting to see a photo of the opposite end of this disk shaft to see how it is designed.

 

[Tinhack]

... Spray those nuts with some penetrate, and let them soak. I prefer a 50/50 mix of Acetone, and ATF, but what ever is handy. Once apart, you should be able to see what kind of bearing you have, clean/replace the grease zerks if needed, and clean the grease ports. Clean up inside in needed, and put back together.

I see that a lot on forums. I'm leaning toward that being an old wives tale. I could never get Acetone to mix with ATF. It would separate within seconds. And I've seen the same on YouTube. (So it's got to be gospel.) Maybe my/our Acetone was old and absorbed water or my/our ATF was different than others but it just didn't mix.

I've had good luck with PB Blaster. Even keep a little in a small squeeze bottle so it's not wasted on small bolts or screws. It's hard to get just a dribble out of those spray cans.

 

[Gem99ultra]

Disk shafts were designed to be operated with end shaft nut very tight. I seriously doubt a tightened ratchet strap will cause nut to extend out of bumper. Back in the 60'-70's I assembled disk shafts with disk/ brgs & spacers AND tightened the nuts utilizing cheater pipes on the wrenches to get the nuts VERY TIGHT.

I agree with DJ54 to remove both bolts on each disk gang hanger then separate each brg halve the remove rust/dirt from white iron brg parts then reassemble & apply more grease to the grease fitting. Then go to disking.

It would be very interesting to see a photo of the opposite end of this disk shaft to see how it is designed.

Here's a picture of the end plate:
oops - internet is totally bogged down - I'll add the pix later.


And here's the (trunion?) housing:
oops - internet is totally bogged down - too many shoppers today I think.



After taking the entire gang off of the harrow and soaking it overnight with PB Blaser, I find there's a good bit of play. I'm wondering if I get it to take grease and tighten up the end nut, if it'll be okay. Otherwise it looks like I'll need to replace the entire assembly.

By the way - the Agri Supply looks like they'll have just about anything I'll need. Thanks for that tip jstpssng.

 

[DJ54]

It will in fact separate after a short while, but a quick shake mixes it up. I've used PB Blaster, Kroil, and many others, but this mix beats them all.

I now buy Acetone by the gallon, and ATF from Rural King in 2 gallon jugs, just to make sure I don't run out.

For those who haven't tried it. you do need to put it in a sealed application bottle. I use a dish detergent bottle, with a snap lid. I have a small one, and a large one, so it's easy to get in a tight spot.

If trying to get penetrate in a horizontal hole, like these zerk fittings are in. Clean the hole, then take a dab of grease on the end of your finger, and make a dam at least half way, filling in the hole, at the very end. put some liquid penetrate of choice in the hole, then screw the zerk in, hopefully without the penetrate running out. Put the grease gun on the zerk, and apply pressure. Most guns produce 10,000-12,000 psi. That pressure will force the liquid in, and push dirt/debris out. Some go easy, some take a lot of pressure. The only time that did not work, is when the grease hole in a bushing, had spun away from the hole. Otherwise, 100% success. Did this a lot on dozer's, when the bushings on the push arms, and angle pins would get worn, and fine dirt would get packed in. This worked very well in this application. An old mechanic showed me this years ago, when greasing the front end of a big truck, and the king pins would not take grease.

 

[Gem99ultra]

TX Jim, Here are the Pix's of the other end plate and the housing.

 

[Tx Jim]

Remove the 2 bolts in brg halves then seperate halves & clean rest/dirt. Lubricate parts & ressemble disk.

If you still desire to disassemble disk shaft which I'll advise against doing then follow these instructions. My eyesight isn't great but I think I see a thin piece of metal bent over square nut to lock nut in place. If I'm correct with aid of a cold chisel bend tab away from nut then loosen nut

 

[Gem99ultra]

Yes, that's a 'lock plate' as such. No problem with heating that and flipping it out straight.

I am inclined to take your advice and simply grease, tighten up adjustment and re-install it. I'm afraid that if I actually do the job right, i.e. disassemble it, clean it, and re-assemble it I'll have a handful of ball bearings fall out. I really just wanted to clean it up, but ran into this dry gang problem. Couldn't resist trying to fix it, but I wasn't prepared to spend a pile of money on it.

Generally I'm not inclined to do a half-a** job on anything, but the value of this harrow is pretty low. I found one that went on auction on the internet for $121. And since correct manufactured parts are no longer available, mine will never be a collector item.

There's nothing like experience, and we have plenty on here with a bunch of that. Thanks again all, for the very good advice.

 

[Tx Jim]

The disk shaft brgs have no ball brgs to fall out. No need to heat locking tab to straighten. I've straightened/locked several locking plate when they were as cold as my ex-wife's heart!! :laughing: If you free up brg halves to spool you will have no need to disassemble disk gangs.

Shown below is a photo of a similar JD disk with very similar white iron brg housing halves. These type brgs will last a very long time if greased on a regular schedule!! I drove a tractor in my youth pulling a plow with similar brg halves plowing many acres!!

 

[Gem99ultra]

The disk shaft brgs have no ball brgs to fall out. No need to heat locking tab to straighten. I've straightened/locked several locking plate when they were as cold as my ex-wife's heart!! :laughing: If you free up brg halves to spool you will have no need to disassemble disk gangs.

Shown below is a photo of a similar JD disk with very similar white iron brg housing halves. These type brgs will last a very long time if greased on a regular schedule!! I drove a tractor in my youth pulling a plow with similar brg halves plowing many acres!!

Dang Texas Jim! Wish you'd have told me that 2 days ago I found that out yesterday when I decided that there was no way I would stick it back to together not fixed. Mine turned out to be made exactly as you described above.

I split the two halves, cleaned it up, drilled out and taped the two broken off zerk fittings. Put in new zerks, coated it down with molybdenum, packed it down with axle grease and buttoned it back up.

The original problem was obvious when I discovered that someone in the distant past had broken off both zerk fittings and just left it like that. It hadn't had grease added for a millenium it seems. Bone dry and no sign of grease at all, but fortunately it wasn't damaged.

So, I went ahead and cleaned up the other carrier, have it all ready to put it back on and do some discing. Of course, the rain is now setting in for the next couple of weeks...

Your help and encouragement is most appreciated. Being of the curious type, and being from Texas myself, thinking that I had been to every town in Texas in my 70 years there, I had to look up Coyote Flats. Coyote Flats! That's just past the middle of Nowhere, Texas!!! Population of 312 in the entire county. You sure don't have a problem with traffic grid. Nope - I had not been to every town... (Just joking with ya, but thanks again for the help.)

 

[Tx Jim]

You're very welcome. I'm glad I could assist you.

I did state that 2 days ago BUT it ZOOMED over your head. If you will re-read the reply(#8) I made 2 days ago it states to remove the 2 bolts & seperate the two 1/2's. Your & my reading comprehension could use some HELP !!!:drink:

I'm glad you're making progress on your disk.

In 2010 my neighbors voted in Coyote Flats to keep town to North from getting them into it's ETJ. So far(???) CF has no city taxes or city ordinances BUT have discovered roads must be maintained & trash picked up. I live on a Farm to Market highway that was designed for 60 mph that the people think is a speedway(80+).

 

[DJ54]

I did state that 2 days ago BUT it ZOOMED over your head. If you will re-read the reply(#8) I made 2 days ago it states to remove

Yeah, I think someone mentioned that way back in post #3 also...

 

[Gem99ultra]

I did state that 2 days ago BUT it ZOOMED over your head. If you will re-read the reply(#8) I made 2 days ago it states to remove

Yeah, I think someone mentioned that way back in post #3 also...

yep, you both were right. It's that comprehension thing that got me.

I had preconceived notions that it was surely pretty much like a car axle with races, bearings, seals, etc.. And of course, I was dead wrong and you were dead right. Now I'm a believer!

 

[DJ54]

Don't beat yourself up too bad. I've had more than several apart over the years. My Massey-Ferguson 22 disk has wooden bearings. Didn't have a clue, until I took it apart. That was long before major manufacturer's had online parts books you can see exploded views of things like that. In fact, it was long before the internet. What a great way to share info on things like this.

Now that you've done it, you've got experience, and can pass that info forward someday. Glad it worked out for you.