Egon
Epic Contributor
There may also be a thermistor involved. About ten dollars.
I assume that you have a connector that is used to hook the solenoid up to the tractor's wiring harness. Which side of that connector did you hook the test lights up to? What I'm getting at is if the connector was being tested also. I believe that the hold-in coil only draws about a half amp. You mentioned warm wires, and a half amp probably wouldn't warm up a wire. A poor connection or a bad crimp might. I might also be inclined to bench test the solenoid my itself to see how it performs long term.
I misread your earlier comment. I would take the solenoid out and apply voltage to it and let it set to see what happens. The more I think about it, the more I think it's doubtful that both solenoids would have identical performances.
The graphic below questions your bulb hookup. One way will check the connector and one way won't. It sure would be nice to have a diagram to see if other connectors are involved.
Since I'm not there and don't have a schematic, I'd be inclined to see if I could activate the injection pump manually so it's set to always run and see the the problem disappears or not.
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Is your fuel filter clear or is it the metal type? If it's the metal type when it dies I would quickly unscrew it and see if it's full of fuel. I had a similar problem on my backhoe and the tractor would just suck the fuel out of the filter. Once empty it would die. If it sat the fuel would slowly fill it back up. The fuel tank is a part of the frame and is tall so when it's half full or more the level is above the filter and when it was empty it's below. When empty the filter wouldn't fill back up. It turned out to be a bad fuel hose.