Which bearing retaining compound (Loctite) ??

[fidowanttobe]

Gentlemen,
Has anyone had success with using a retaining compound on bearings to keep the race from rotating in the housing? Rear auto wheel bearing is loose in the hole after I had to slide hammer the old one out, new bearing is correct in size and number, old bearing is correct number but is .007 larger than specs say it should be !!! So, no way of finding a bearing that will friction fit so I need to Loctite it in with a "retaining compound". Only trouble is there are dozens of them. Any suggestions? Thanks.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I think Loctite makes great products. Recently, I had to call their tech line and get advice on a particular application. Got the right product number and ordered it from a local jobber. If in doubt, ask.

 

[ericm979]

I've used the gap fillers on parts in carbon fiber bicycle frames so I can't help with a specific recommendation for this application.

The specs for each compound are published and relatively easy to understand. I.e. the size of the gap it fills, the strength of the bond, etc.

Get it really clean (I use acetone as a final cleaner) and use the primer.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Also what medium it will be exposed to, what may happen if it gets loose into the system, how hard it gets, how it cures and stuff like operating temperatures.

 

[ruffdog]

To retain a bearing race, use one of the green locktites. One of them will fill voids up to .015"

 

[oldnslo]

680 is a retaining compound meant for cylindrical parts.

 

[i7win7]

the race is the metal cage that keeps the bearing separated right? If so it needs to rotate. If bearing is loose in the casting, what about JB Weld?

 

[ruffdog]

the race is the metal cage that keeps the bearing separated right? If so it needs to rotate. If bearing is loose in the casting, what about JB Weld?

No, the cage is not the race. Most bearings have an inner and outer race.

 

[ericm979]

The races are the inner and outer tracks that the balls roll in. The cage is the cage, or rolling element separator if you're being formal.

The right loctite compound will work much better than JB weld. It's tough to get a good layer of JB weld in a 7 thou gap. I you get JB weld in the bearing, it's toast, while the Loctite just won't set up so it's safe. With Loctite you can heat the part to get it loose again (unless it's in a carbon fiber bike frame, then you use a compound that can be disassembled without heat). Heat works with JB weld too but the temps required are higher, potentially damaging the parts.

 

[otlski]

As mentioned above, a gap-filling green is the right stuff. Be certain in this particular application to properly degrease and use primer. The gap filling stuff wants to be clean and primered to cure correctly.

 

[Ehanson]

I have seen a fix in the past where you take a "prick" punch all around where the bearing race rests, each dimple raises the metal slightly tightening up the race in its bore once installed. You can also use loctite as well to get a reasonable fix.
not as good as welding and boring, but good enough!

 

[The Fred]

.007" MY GOD don't be ridiculous, find the right bearing.

 

[def38]

I agree with Fred. Your replacement bearing is the wrong OD. I would speak with a bearing expert.

 

[5030]

I have seen a fix in the past where you take a "prick" punch all around where the bearing race rests, each dimple raises the metal slightly tightening up the race in its bore once installed. You can also use loctite as well to get a reasonable fix.
not as good as welding and boring, but good enough!

Exactly what I always do. Old school is still as good as new school.

I'll back that up with Detroit Diesel anaerobic sealant just in case.

 

[5030]

All bearings have an etched in catalog number you can cross reference using the Internet or a bearing catalog like SKF or Timken.

 

[The Fred]

Find the correct interference. Loctite works well but constantly in oil not so.

 

[fidowanttobe]

Did all that. Motion Industries and Interstate Bearing systems actually told me to call Loctite after I also checked with every local auto parts store.
So I did and they told me to use 680.
So, . . . then find that locally that is not in a pint bottle for $40 that is a one year life date that I will never use again. Motion Industries came to my rescue with 2 single serving capsule type thingies for $2 each !
Tapped them in and within a couple minutes I could tell it was setting up. But the tiny bit left over that is just exposed to air never stiffened up even the next morning.
Anaerobic. Weird stuff.
Haven't been able to get back to that project since Friday night so I'm curious if the left over ever did thicken. I guess this is not an uncommon scenario, just that I never had to "glue" a bearing in. Loctite and the 2 suppliers were completely confident that it will work.

 

[rScotty]

Did all that. Motion Industries and Interstate Bearing systems actually told me to call Loctite after I also checked with every local auto parts store.
So I did and they told me to use 680.
So, . . . then find that locally that is not in a pint bottle for $40 that is a one year life date that I will never use again. Motion Industries came to my rescue with 2 single serving capsule type thingies for $2 each !
Tapped them in and within a couple minutes I could tell it was setting up. But the tiny bit left over that is just exposed to air never stiffened up even the next morning.
Anaerobic. Weird stuff.
Haven't been able to get back to that project since Friday night so I'm curious if the left over ever did thicken. I guess this is not an uncommon scenario, just that I never had to "glue" a bearing in. Loctite and the 2 suppliers were completely confident that it will work.

Loctite cures when it is exposed to metal ions. It doesn't cure in air although it may form a crust in air. BTW, I'd be very surprised if gluing in an wheel bearing worked. It might in a bicycle, or lawn mower but I wouldn't trust it in a car. Maybe it would last long enough to get it somewhere to be fixed properly.