Rotary Cutter Solution for Heavy/Dense Brush with 34 hp PTO tractor?

[jjp8182]

All else fails a tractor mounted saw like this one: TRACTOR SAW | DFM

-- may work though it wouldn't cover the full width of the tractor. Of course on the other hand it also wouldn't necessarily leave a mass of cut off partially busted up stumps....

Alternatively if they don't have spikes that would puncture the tractor tire a simple box blade may even do wonders. It's approach I've used on fibrous weeds that were 6-8ft tall & much more dense spacing with the the occasional small sapling of <1.5 inches in it. Just backed into the mess, dropped the box blade (rippers fully extended) and went forward ripping out all vegetation.

However, with the trees it might be worth using a bucket/grapple to push them over so they don't damage the underside of the tractor, but the rippers on a box blade should be able to pull them out by the roots ...if not at full width, then at least at a partial width. On that note a root rake design may also do the trick, though that might also be a bit more that a tractor loader is designed to really do (unlike a box blade which is meant to be drug through dirt to no end).

Of course if this is a one time task, it may also be worth looking at renting different options -- or even hiring it out (if it's cheaper). As nice as it is to buy new equipment, buying for a single time use is something that should really be weighed against other options..... For example, in my area I could rent a JD 450K bulldozer (with delivery) for a 40hr week for about the same/less as buying a new heavy duty 5ft-6ft rotary cutter ...and based on my experience with that vegetation odds are a clearing a couple acres wouldn't take more than a few days with the dozer (and at less than $550/day rental)

However, if this is also intended to be routinely used it may be worth looking at a small batwing rotary cutter like the Rhino AG TS10 (seen them cut through some pretty significant brush on the youtube "Tractor Time with Tim" channel).

On that note, these are just some suggestions and ultimately how you approach it is up to you as you're the one footing the bill and have the best knowledge of the terrain (and what you're willing to do).

 

[jjp8182]

See if you can get the local militia to assist.

...or this :thumbsup:

 

[kreyszig]

All else fails a tractor mounted saw like this one: TRACTOR SAW | DFM

-- may work though it wouldn't cover the full width of the tractor. Of course on the other hand it also wouldn't necessarily leave a mass of cut off partially busted up stumps....

Alternatively if they don't have spikes that would puncture the tractor tire a simple box blade may even do wonders. It's approach I've used on fibrous weeds that were 6-8ft tall & much more dense spacing with the the occasional small sapling of <1.5 inches in it. Just backed into the mess, dropped the box blade (rippers fully extended) and went forward ripping out all vegetation.

However, with the trees it might be worth using a bucket/grapple to push them over so they don't damage the underside of the tractor, but the rippers on a box blade should be able to pull them out by the roots ...if not at full width, then at least at a partial width. On that note a root rake design may also do the trick, though that might also be a bit more that a tractor loader is designed to really do (unlike a box blade which is meant to be drug through dirt to no end).

Of course if this is a one time task, it may also be worth looking at renting different options -- or even hiring it out (if it's cheaper). As nice as it is to buy new equipment, buying for a single time use is something that should really be weighed against other options..... For example, in my area I could rent a JD 450K bulldozer (with delivery) for a 40hr week for about the same/less as buying a new heavy duty 5ft-6ft rotary cutter ...and based on my experience with that vegetation odds are a clearing a couple acres wouldn't take more than a few days with the dozer (and at less than $550/day rental)

However, if this is also intended to be routinely used it may be worth looking at a small batwing rotary cutter like the Rhino AG TS10 (seen them cut through some pretty significant brush on the youtube "Tractor Time with Tim" channel).

On that note, these are just some suggestions and ultimately how you approach it is up to you as you're the one footing the bill and have the best knowledge of the terrain (and what you're willing to do).

Thank you! Lots of good ideas to consider in your post.

 

[RalphVa]

Yes, that would work for sure, but I prefer avoiding herbicides as much as possible. Maybe there would be a way to burn them though?

Once I cut a bush down it is fairly easy to prevent it from growing by going back with my HD finishing mower. I was more looking for a mechanical solution to cut the bushes down...

I see the reluctance to spray with herbicide, but painting the stumps with a dauber is very safe and harmless except to what is painted. However, in your case it would be quite a PITA. My neighbor hired a huge flail mower on a Cat to take down all the stuff between his trees. Very effective. Don't know how much he paid.

Ralph

 

[bearlindsay]

Would this be too much work?

STIHL M-Tronic Forest Clearing Saw | FS 56 C-EM | STIHL USA

 

[LouNY]

Something else for you to think about on that brush,
one of the side benefits to using a brush hog with well worn and rounded over blades is that they tend to break and shatter the bases of the brush so that they are not nice sharp spear points sticking up in the air looking for expensive tires.
Anything with sharp blades that shears that brush off nice and neat also makes tire spears. :thumbsup:

 

[nybirdman]

After spending a small fortune on bush-hogs(2),Stihl shoulder saw,50 hours with a 100 HP tractor and bush-hog;I finally got smart and "hired" a Skid Steer with a FECON head.He did more in four days than I did in ten years.

 

[ericm979]

Baumalight makes a couple implements that could do the work- a super heavy duty rotary that has open blades in the rear to back into stuff, and a pto driven mulcher. They're not cheap though! And you'll have to back into 20 acres of brush. It'd probably cost less to hire a guy with a skid steer/track loader with mulcher head. It's certainly be easier on your neck.

At the least you will want a sturdy brush hog or flail to maintain it afterwards.

 

[metalbender]

Have a unit bookmarked on my computer. The Perfect Tree saw. Plan on building one in the future. Seems simple and effective for small spindly growth.

 

[kreyszig]

Would this be too much work?

STIHL M-Tronic Forest Clearing Saw | FS 56 C-EM | STIHL USA

I basically have that already. It works for sure, but I can spend a good part of a day cutting down a single bush.

 

[dstig1]

You don't have big enough equipment to realistically tackle this, IMO. ...Unless you have unlimited time... I would get a bush hog for maintenance, but hire someone with a skid steer or other equipment with mulching head (or even a dozer) to make the first pass and chew it up. Then you can handle maintenance mowing with your BH.

 

[AWSubie]

Have a unit bookmarked on my computer. The Perfect Tree saw. Plan on building one in the future. Seems simple and effective for small spindly growth.

That perfect tree saw looks like a great solution for all my mesquite!!!

 

[kreyszig]

After spending a small fortune on bush-hogs(2),Stihl shoulder saw,50 hours with a 100 HP tractor and bush-hog;I finally got smart and "hired" a Skid Steer with a FECON head.He did more in four days than I did in ten years.

Thanks for the info, I did not know these. I understand your point and it might be the best solution. Was it mostly brush that you had cleared? How much did you pay for 4 days (was it recently?)?

Thanks!

 

[GeeVee]

Unless you need a serious bushog for the rest of you life for other use, I'd hire a forestry mulcher or rent a CAT skid steer with the drum style mulcher and get it done once, then you can maintain as you say.

Drum mulcher will blow though that stuff in one pass right at the ground and even the root crown, then you can spot treat and start mowing..... No sense doing any of this work by hand, or buying a new attachment (because a used one is going to give you fits) If you rent one, you can almost use it as a TILLER, and be sure you are getting the root crown. A contractor may not want to go to that depth.

I do a lot of selective clearing and grubbing with small equipment to build disc golf courses in wooded spaces, and I turn the flyways into natural walking paths. Dealing with the cleared material is a big part of the efforts, I don't want to pick it up and haul it, so mulching is best management practice. One machine. Not, Chainsaws, Grapple, Loader truck, haul to landfill, just so it can decompose there..... plus all the people involved. I don't own a Mulcher, as I can get the Government agency I am building this Disc Golf Park, natural walking trails, to contract that effort, but I still go in behind them and do some sawing and I use My skid steer to move the brush, trees, to a space where I reduce it so I can run my 4' bushog over it to reduce it to mulch and a stem.... See this 2 minute video to see my ASV RC 30 moving brush, and how dense the juvenile canopy is and the large Oaks, Hickory, Magnolia, Gum, that I leave/have to work around. And what it looks like after.... A year and a half later, this space sees 150 disc golfers and 100 walkers, mountain bikers and dog walkers using it...

Holland Park Build - YouTube

 

[nybirdman]

Thanks for the info, I did not know these. I understand your point and it might be the best solution. Was it mostly brush that you had cleared? How much did you pay for 4 days (was it recently?)?

Thanks!

Mostly what I had cleared was 10-12 ft.Red alder brush,buck-thorn;very thick(a beagle could hardly get through it).Left alone for at least 75 years.The 100 HP Skid steer and FECON head was $285/hr.Again the best money spent.I now maintain with my tractor and six ft.bush-hog.Skid steer work was done two years ago.It was so rough they broke it three times(lots of rock).

 

[FTG-05]

After spending a small fortune on bush-hogs(2),Stihl shoulder saw,50 hours with a 100 HP tractor and bush-hog;I finally got smart and "hired" a Skid Steer with a FECON head.He did more in four days than I did in ten years.

This. Include a lawn chair, some shade and enough Iced Tea, it's still cheaper and easier than anything else.

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

One possible solution.. Or the start of a long term solution..

When your ground is stable enough to get to all the spots you need to cut, rent a tracked skid steer with a forestry type cutter.. Do it all, or all you can, as close to the ground as you can. The track machine will not have a problem with stickers..

Luckily where bush tries to reclaim our pasture, I can get at it with the brush hog to keep it at bay..

 

[BoylermanCT]

One possible solution.. Or the start of a long term solution..

When your ground is stable enough to get to all the spots you need to cut, rent a tracked skid steer with a forestry type cutter.. Do it all, or all you can, as close to the ground as you can. The track machine will not have a problem with stickers..

Luckily where bush tries to reclaim our pasture, I can get at it with the brush hog to keep it at bay..

This. My Skid Steer Solutions - Eterra Brush Cutter Clearing Attachment on my Bobcat - YouTube

 

[Jchonline]

Here is what was used on our place. FTX15 Tracked Carrier | FECON

 

[ptsg]

Tractor Time with Tim just posted a video where he is mowing brush pretty much like the one shown on the picture of the first post with a 38hp JD: UNLEASH THE FURY! Brush Mulcher in Action! - YouTube

I think he could go a bit slower to leave a better job but that comes with practice. It's an expensive attachment, specially when it would be used pretty much one time just to clear the bigger stuff.

On a personal note, I've dealt with stuff similar to that, just with green leaves on it, with my 35 HP tractor. Actually it was it's break in period. Using a conventional brush mower but fitted with high strength chains instead of blades. These chains can handle thicker brush and rocks or whatever it's thrown at it without getting damaged like the blades would. It would handle that stuff shown by the OP just fine and the mower only cost me $700 new that I can use for all kinds of brush.

Here is a clearing job I did some time ago. The brush is believe it's called gorse bush in English, it's about chest height and at least 15 years old. Took me slightly more time because it's a very steep hill even though it's does look like much in the picture. It was about one acre job.