So I'm new here and just starting to look for my first tractor, I've looked at Yanmar, Kubota, NH as well. One question about LS I have is with the backhoe and connecting and reconnecting it to the machine. It appears from the one video I found that when you disconnect the backhoe the actual subframe comes off along with the backhoe, the others I have looked at simply disconnect right at the back of the tractor without having that long subframe still attached. It seems from the video I saw putting the loader back on may be a real pain if you need to line that subframe back up with channels under the tractor. Any input on this would be much appreciated.
XR4150 backhoe question
- Thread starter Urakunu
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neverfailyou
Silver Member
XR4140H (with backhoe) here.
Yup... it’s tricky because subframe is long and alignment is tight. I disconnect and remove on a flat surface usually on concrete. Then to reinstall I line everything carefully with the hydraulics and “stab” the subframe into the slots. I’ve gotten better and quicker. (It would be easier with another set of eyes). That said, I removed backhoe this week on my gravel drive for the first time. Let you know that works out.
Yup... it’s tricky because subframe is long and alignment is tight. I disconnect and remove on a flat surface usually on concrete. Then to reinstall I line everything carefully with the hydraulics and “stab” the subframe into the slots. I’ve gotten better and quicker. (It would be easier with another set of eyes). That said, I removed backhoe this week on my gravel drive for the first time. Let you know that works out.
Thank you so much for the reply. That concerns me a little now as this tractor would be used at my cabin a lot and there is not a nice concrete flat surface to make things easier. That's a shame they build them that way as opposed to just disconnecting at the rear of the machine.
In my opinion, the subframe mounting is superior to the other mounting methods because it puts less stress on the tractor. Busting the ears off cast iron housings could get expensive fast.
Supraman0614
Silver Member
My LS has the factory subframe BH. It takes about 5 minutes to connect it once you have done it a few times. I generally park it on a gravel pad behind my barn, but I've taken it off in the yard before with no issues. You back up and get it as centered as possible, hook up the hydraulics, and lift the frame, then back the tractor into it and drop in the two keeper pins. If it is not exactly aligned, you can use the boom to pivot it back and forth until it is aligned. My father has an older Kubota with a subframe backhoe and that is much more difficult to align. His has a pin in the front of the subframe, under the tractor that must be really close to slide in place. The LS subframe is set up so that the BH slides into a couple slots. It works pretty easily once you get the hang of it.
Thank you so much for this info, I'm going to revisit the dealer to see if he can show me how this works, I appreciate your insight into this!
Good point!
3Lfarms
Platinum Member
How it mounts up isn’t really relevant, they all have to be lined up correctly to engage properly.
The ladder style LS uses works fine, but it is a lot easier with a second person that knows what you are trying to do. Once it’s lined up properly, you hook up the hydraulics and raise the whole thing up and adjust the angle front to back using the boom and bucket, then back up until you can drop the pins into place.
The ladder style LS uses works fine, but it is a lot easier with a second person that knows what you are trying to do. Once it’s lined up properly, you hook up the hydraulics and raise the whole thing up and adjust the angle front to back using the boom and bucket, then back up until you can drop the pins into place.
Thanks for that. I assume based on the design the loader hangs back farther then the other style that Kubota or the like uses. Does this weight hanging back a little more make the front lighter? Like I said I'm new to tractors and in my mind that weight hanging out back there seems like it would make the front end lighter because of mechanical advantage, or do implements weigh about the same, I would think the backhoe is about double the weight of an implement you would use, but I'm as green as it gets when it comes to tractors. Thanks again for your input.
LS Tractor Owner
Super Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2017
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- 7,665
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- Edgewood, NM
- Tractor
- LS XG3025 TLB, Previously MT125 TLB, Craftsman GTS6500
When I have the BH on, loader work seems easier. Definitely not light in the front end when it is on. Naturally if you hit bumps, you will rock back and forth from the weight.
The subframe is challenging the first few times you put it on /off. I can take it off in about 3 minutes, putting it on about 5. That is by myself. I set 2x12 wood blocks under the main pivot, which helps a lot. No difference to me if it is in the gravel driveway, off in the yard, or in the garage.
The subframe is challenging the first few times you put it on /off. I can take it off in about 3 minutes, putting it on about 5. That is by myself. I set 2x12 wood blocks under the main pivot, which helps a lot. No difference to me if it is in the gravel driveway, off in the yard, or in the garage.
Thank you I appreciate the feedback!
neverfailyou
Silver Member
I’m agreeing with the posts that the BH won’t be a problem putting back on the tractor. And I’m confident that the actual install and alignment is not a big issue whether on concrete or gravel.
It weighs about 1000 lbs without the bucket. My Woods rotary mower (bush hog type) is heavy also and my zero turn mower is 800 lbs. the BH doesn’t project out the rear an unusual distance but it is an attachment.
I had the dealer show me the install technique when I purchased the unit 3 years ago and it’s as described by others. Basically you get close, hook up hydraulics And then use outriggers and boom to get everything aligned. Removal is the same.
I’ve used the heck out the BH clearing and developing my 16 acres of mountainous land in north Alabama. Based on my rocky soil type, I could use a second and narrower bucket for trenching and stumping.
Good luck...
Thanks so much for the feedback!
mred2
Platinum Member
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- Aug 31, 2018
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- 888
- Location
- West Alabama, USA
- Tractor
- iseki tl3200, JD 450H dozer, LS XR4150, Genie Z34/22N lift
I have a 4150. The BH is no problem, as said takes about 3 to 4 minutes to take it off. About 5 to 7 to put it on. The first time I did it, I did not remove the pin for the drawbar. It will not let the BH move past it. I always put it back in so that I will not lose it. Love my tractor. The BH is a great attachment when you need it. I take mine off and on about 2 times a month.
breadtrk
Platinum Member
I'm down to about 5 minutes with the BH on my 3037. First time I tried to hook it up I was green too, I didn't level the subframe before backing up and ripped the hydro filter off and bent the housing. Lesson learned.
A subframe backhoe takes a lot of stress off the tractor compared to a 3 point backhoe. I also think once you get the hang of it they are much easier to attach with a subframe. Level pavement or ground is easiest but you can still level and adjust the hoe for attachment on uneven surfaces. LS is one of very few manufactures that over subframes.
Avenger
Veteran Member
Last year I went though the fiasco of mounting a BH to my tractor. I purchased a used Woods thinking that all mounting types were the same. This used one even came with a ladder style (which is what LS uses) sub-frame mount. I quickly learned that the sub frame mounts are tractor specific. Woods makes the mounts for the different tractors, and they all use a 4-pt mount. I ordered one for my tractor and hand to modify it slightly to get it to work completely.
Hooking and unhooking a 4-pt mount is SOOO much better than the ladder style. The majority of the mount stays on the tractor, thus saving space when the BH is off the tractor. Everything is visible as all the hookups are at the back of the tractor. I dont have any level ground, but using the hydraulics, this is not an issue. I can hook up to the BH in just a few minutes, and the mount is solid. I did a video of this, you can find it on my YouTube channel, link in the signature.
If you have the option, get a 4-pt.
Hooking and unhooking a 4-pt mount is SOOO much better than the ladder style. The majority of the mount stays on the tractor, thus saving space when the BH is off the tractor. Everything is visible as all the hookups are at the back of the tractor. I dont have any level ground, but using the hydraulics, this is not an issue. I can hook up to the BH in just a few minutes, and the mount is solid. I did a video of this, you can find it on my YouTube channel, link in the signature.
If you have the option, get a 4-pt.
