Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[Oldpath05]

I've always wondered why they do that. There is no real reason for it. If it was a single big nut concentric with the axle, I could see it, but multiple lug nuts spaced around the center have no loosening torque on them during operation.

The Army did it so must be a reason..........

 

[John_Mc]

If you're going to be burying that 24" bar in wood I think you'll be disappointed with the 460 Rancher. I have a Stihl MS362 which is also 60cc but has 27% more power than the Rancher. While Stihl lists 24" as the largest bar, it's kinda slow even in fir. The Rancher's going to be significantly slower.

The Husqvarna 460 is a "landowner" saw listing at $500, the Stihl MS362 is a pro-level saw, listing at $770. You are not comparing apples to apples, even if the displacement (60cc) is the same.

The Stihl MS362 (59 cc, 4.7 HP, 12.3 lbs, $770 list) would be more comparable to a Husqvarna 562XP (60cc, 4.7 HP, 13.4 lbs, $750 list). Both are top notch saws, but are overkill for the occasional use that farmer2009 described (though if you don't mind spending the extra $ both are excellent saws and with proper care will last the typical landowner for MANY years). Both are spec'd to handle a 24" bar. However, these would not be my first choice if a was going to be doing lot of cutting with that size bar. They lack the power to drive it efficiently, and the balance is not good when wearing a bar of that length. For occasional use, it would work, but normally I would have a 16 - 20" bar on these saws.

A more reasonable comparison would be to compare the Husqvarna 460 (60 cc, 3.6 HP, 13.2 lbs, $500) to the Stihl MS311 (59cc, 4.2 HP, 13.7 lbs, $520 list). Both are "landowner"/midrange saws. Either of these is a significant step up from the 42cc Echo CS-400. If you are using a 24" bar on these saws, you'll need a good bit of patience, especially in hardwood. Still, they might be a good match for the farmer2009's use, especially if he could get by with a 20" bar most of the time.

 

[Loaderman22]

The Husqvarna 460 is a "landowner" saw listing at $500, the Stihl MS362 is a pro-level saw, listing at $770. You are not comparing apples to apples, even if the displacement (60cc) is the same.

The Stihl MS362 (59 cc, 4.7 HP, 12.3 lbs, $770 list) would be more comparable to a Husqvarna 562XP (60cc, 4.7 HP, 13.4 lbs, $750 list). Both are top notch saws, but are overkill for the occasional use that farmer2009 described (though if you don't mind spending the extra $ both are excellent saws and with proper care will last the typical landowner for MANY years). Both are spec'd to handle a 24" bar. However, these would not be my first choice if a was going to be doing lot of cutting with that size bar. They lack the power to drive it efficiently, and the balance is not good when wearing a bar of that length]

I understand your point, but having the Stihl 360 (about 4-5 years old) with a 24" bar, it is a bit front heavy, but with a sharp chain in seems to be efficient to me. I wouldn't even consider a 16" bar for this saw, IMO. Sounds like a Hemi in a golf cart to me. Now are there better suited saws? possibly. But I believe the OP stated it would be a one off situation, so I agree it probably is priced out of contention. I also have a Stihl 290 that would be a better choice in my mind, for the lesser pricepoint, but I am not familiar with the MS311 you mentioned, I only can go by what I have used. However the specs on the 311 sound good for what he is trying to do.

 

[farmer2009]

What you mean by saw log, you sawing logs into lumber with Alaskan mill? If so then need atleast a 70 cc saw, if just bucking up firewood then 50-60 cc is plenty, for that I recommend the Husqvarna 550xp the biggest 50 cc bang for the buck with 18-20" bar, the Husky 372xp will easily carry a 24" bar. That CS 400 Echo is just a 40 cc saw, very light duty.

Saw log in this situation is going to be sold to a mill. I’ll be cutting to length. We have a large sawmill locally that has a tri-axle truck with a knuckle boom. They will come pickup and haul for a fee. Used to be .05/bdft. All I have to do is cut and stack in an accessible location.

 

[whitepine2]

I did not that so I just went out in the garage and wire brushed the studs, me and my son knows now.... 1st picture is the driver side stud, left side, the side he's working on, the next pictures are the passenger side, right side, the side that hasn't fell apart yet........

View attachment 615471 View attachment 615472 View attachment 615473 View attachment 615474

One thing for sure your son will never change a tire without checking for the rest of his life. L O L

 

[farmer2009]

I’ll give these other saws a look and some consideration.

I know my cs-400 isn’t up to it. It struggles with 18” of .325 chain. It’s slow and sharp chains you actually have to hold the saw off the wood. It cuts its best with a half dull chain. But saying that, I bought it to keep fences clear. Great, light saw for cutting limb falls and 6-10” trees. I fell a couple 30+” trees a couple years ago with it and spent too lung under them doing it.

Could I get by with a 20” saw? Yes. That’s probably the bar that will stay on the saw mostly. But I’m going to have some stuff pushing 40” if not over. So I’ll need a little bit more bar. I don’t want another dog of a saw. Dad loves his 455 Rancher with a 20” bar. Why I was looking at the 460 Rancher. I found Husqvarna used to have a 465 Rancher but that looks discontinued. The 465 would have been a perfect fit.

Wood will be half poplar and half oak, hickory and maple.

 

[Reb954]

I did not that so I just went out in the garage and wire brushed the studs, me and my son knows now.... 1st picture is the driver side stud, left side, the side he's working on, the next pictures are the passenger side, right side, the side that hasn't fell apart yet........

When your son gets ready to service the other three wheels there isn't a need to pull the tires off anyway. Remove the axle and lock nuts, then use a pallet jack to remove the tires, wheels and hub in one piece. Saves a lot of time.

 

[John_Mc]

I’ll give these other saws a look and some consideration.

I know my cs-400 isn’t up to it. It struggles with 18” of .325 chain. It’s slow and sharp chains you actually have to hold the saw off the wood. It cuts its best with a half dull chain. But saying that, I bought it to keep fences clear. Great, light saw for cutting limb falls and 6-10” trees. I fell a couple 30+” trees a couple years ago with it and spent too lung under them doing it.

Could I get by with a 20” saw? Yes. That’s probably the bar that will stay on the saw mostly. But I’m going to have some stuff pushing 40” if not over. So I’ll need a little bit more bar. I don’t want another dog of a saw. Dad loves his 455 Rancher with a 20” bar. Why I was looking at the 460 Rancher. I found Husqvarna used to have a 465 Rancher but that looks discontinued. The 465 would have been a perfect fit.

Wood will be half poplar and half oak, hickory and maple.

Since you already have an Echo saw, I should mention that one of the better values out there in the size range you are considering is the Echo CS-590 Timberwolf. There are more powerful 60cc saws out there, but it's hard to beat the price for the performance this saw delivers.

For me, the deciding factor on brand of saw is who has a good servicing dealer in the area. I does some of my own service, but since working on chainsaws is not really my cup of tea, I like having someone nearby who knows what they are doing for repairs. (Dolmar makes some good saws, but I've never owned one because there are no good Dolmar dealers in the area).

 

[John_Mc]

The Husqvarna 460 is a "landowner" saw listing at $500, the Stihl MS362 is a pro-level saw, listing at $770. You are not comparing apples to apples, even if the displacement (60cc) is the same.

The Stihl MS362 (59 cc, 4.7 HP, 12.3 lbs, $770 list) would be more comparable to a Husqvarna 562XP (60cc, 4.7 HP, 13.4 lbs, $750 list). Both are top notch saws, but are overkill for the occasional use that farmer2009 described (though if you don't mind spending the extra $ both are excellent saws and with proper care will last the typical landowner for MANY years). Both are spec'd to handle a 24" bar. However, these would not be my first choice if a was going to be doing lot of cutting with that size bar. They lack the power to drive it efficiently, and the balance is not good when wearing a bar of that length

I understand your point, but having the Stihl 360 (about 4-5 years old) with a 24" bar, it is a bit front heavy, but with a sharp chain in seems to be efficient to me. I wouldn't even consider a 16" bar for this saw, IMO. Sounds like a Hemi in a golf cart to me. Now are there better suited saws? possibly. But I believe the OP stated it would be a one off situation, so I agree it probably is priced out of contention. I also have a Stihl 290 that would be a better choice in my mind, for the lesser pricepoint, but I am not familiar with the MS311 you mentioned, I only can go by what I have used. However the specs on the 311 sound good for what he is trying to do.

One of my saws is a Husqvarna 357XP, which is similar in power/performance to your MS360. It wears a 16" bar 95% of the time. I'd rather have the better balance, lighter weight and maneuverability of a 16" bar on this saw when working in the woods felling and limbing trees, and I find it a good match power-wise for that bar. (Of course, my 50cc saw also wears a 16" bar all the time.) Unless I know I'm going to spend a significant chunk of my day felling trees larger than 16", it wears the 16" bar, and I fell those occasional trees of larger diameter by cutting from both sides. It's extremely rare in this part of the Northeast that I would be felling a tree larger than I could drop with a 16" bar.

If I know I'm going to be working in bigger trees a lot that day, or if I'll be bucking up a lot of 16-20" firewood, I'll put on the 20" bar. While the specs say it can handle a 24" bar, I would not even consider putting something that size on it. If I needed 24" of bar for a significant amount of cutting, I'd switch to a bigger saw - probably a 70cc.

All of my cutting is in hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Beech, occasionally Ash or Hickory). If I were cutting large softwoods with any frequency, I might step up the bar size I'd put on a given saw a bit.

 

[ericm979]

The Husqvarna 460 is a "landowner" saw listing at $500, the Stihl MS362 is a pro-level saw, listing at $770. You are not comparing apples to apples, even if the displacement (60cc) is the same.

You missed my point, which was this: The 362 has 27% more power than the Husky. The 362 cuts slow with a 24" bar. Therefore the Husky would be really slow.