Nuts and bolts for welding

/ Nuts and bolts for welding #1  

woodlot

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I need a bit of knowlege please. I've got a project that I'm working on and it involves welding nuts onto rebar. Now I never done this before so I don't know what type of nut to use. I've read that welding galvinized metal is a no-no, the fumes will kill you, etc. Is it ok to weld the zinc plated nuts and bolts? I mean, isn't zinc what they use to galvinize stuff, so what the diffrence between "zinc plated" and "galvinized" as far as welding is concerned?

Also, will my little 100amp 110vac buzz box be able to weld a big honkin' nut onto the end of 1/2 rebar. I've got 5/64" 6013 rod. Thanks!
 
/ Nuts and bolts for welding #2  
woodlot said:
I need a bit of knowledge please. I've got a project that I'm working on and it involves welding nuts onto rebar. Now I never done this before so I don't know what type of nut to use. I've read that welding galvanized metal is a no-no, the fumes will kill you, etc. Is it OK to weld the zinc plated nuts and bolts? I mean, isn't zinc what they use to galvanize stuff, so what the difference between "zinc plated" and "galvanized" as far as welding is concerned?

Also, will my little 100amp 110vac buzz box be able to weld a big honkin' nut onto the end of 1/2 rebar. I've got 5/64" 6013 rod. Thanks!


Zinc is what they use to galvanize. However, there are different kinds of zinc plating.

Welding galvanized can give you zinc poisoning which makes it tough to breath. Believe it not, milk is the cure...or, at least, alleviates the symptoms.

Zinc plate doesn't have the thickness of galvanized.
Here's a link that will tell you more then you'd ever want to know about both coatings.

As far as welding, you'll just be tacking the nuts on, so it's not like you'd be breathing the fumes continuously. Be in a well ventilated area so those fumes can dissipate rapidly. If you're not using a gas shielded welding method (TIG or MIG), set a fan close by blowing the fumes away.
 
/ Nuts and bolts for welding #3  
I cannot quite picture the project, but my answers would be.

Yes, the Zinc is what get's you, so try not to breathe any of it, Zinc coated, Zinc plated, Galvanized etc. It is all bad for you (as most any other welding fume) so try not to breathe it.

Nuts are available plain, and there are also special "weld nuts" available, that have little **** on them to give you welding space, and raised turned circles on them to center them in holes, which makes some projects much easier.

But, from the sound of it and especially where re-bar is involved, I would just say crank up the heat, keep your head out of the fumes, and go to town welding them on. Piece of tape over the threads sometimes keeps splatter out.

Good luck, and post a pic when you are done.
 
/ Nuts and bolts for welding #4  
I've made quite a few large bolts out of allthread and buts. Both zinc plated of course. I've also welded quite a bit on galvanized metal pipe. It won't kill you, that's a wive's tale. It will make you feel badly if you inhale a lot of it but you are not supposed to inhale any of that smoke anyways.

Welding galvanized pipe is a little difficult because the thick coating burns weird and makes lots of cool green flash. Tough to get a good puddle going.

Welding the zinc plated stuff is buch easier with less contaminants in your puddle.
 
/ Nuts and bolts for welding
  • Thread Starter
#5  
AlanB said:
I cannot quite picture the project

Picture a 6-8 foot long piece of 1/2" rebar with a big honkin' nut welded on the end. Kind of like a wierd lookin' lolly-pop. This is actually going to be used on my trap-line for beaver and otter trapping. It's part of a system that will prevent the critters for runnin' off with my traps. At 30 bucks each I kind of want to hang onto them.

Thanks for the replys. Sounds like the zinc coating is not going to kill me. I do weld outside too. The zinc coated nuts are the cheepest I can find, which is why I want to use them. I'm very new to welding, I got my little buzz box at a garage sale a month ago. I really enjoy using it. I see a MIG in my future.

PS - if anyone has any old animal traps hanging in thier barn that they want to get rid of, pm me. thanks.
 
/ Nuts and bolts for welding #6  
Is the nut really being used as a nut, or just a ring?

If just a ring, some metal houses have smooth rolled rings in mild steel that may work better for you.
 
/ Nuts and bolts for welding #7  
Also, will my little 100amp 110vac buzz box be able to weld a big honkin' nut onto the end of 1/2 rebar. I've got 5/64" 6013 rod. Thanks!


While not the ideal machine , it will do the job.If there's no stress on the nut , & while both rods are 60 K per sq.in. I would use 6011 rod for this job myself. You would have to breath alot more fumes than your going to breath welding that nut on to do any harm.
 
/ Nuts and bolts for welding #8  
Figure that you'll be welding thick rebar to thick nut material so you want to use as much power as your welder can muster. I throw a lot of amps at the nut/bar connection since you really only get the one pass.

For some reason, I have a hard time welding to rebar. Maybe the coating.
 
/ Nuts and bolts for welding #9  
Just a tip........submerge any plated fasteners (galv or zinc chromate) in muriatic acid. It will dissolve the coating in mere seconds and be ready for welding after a quick water rinse.
 
/ Nuts and bolts for welding #10  
Just a tip........submerge any plated fasteners (galv or zinc chromate) in muriatic acid. It will dissolve the coating in mere seconds and be ready for welding after a quick water rinse.

This is a good tip. The acid is cheap and a little goes a long way. I try to keep it off the threads but it's not always and issue. After rinse and weld you can re-galv with low cost galv sticks that you rub on right after welding while the material is still hot. Good Luck..
 
/ Nuts and bolts for welding #11  
Is the nut really being used as a nut, or just a ring?

If just a ring, some metal houses have smooth rolled rings in mild steel that may work better for you.
I would guess it is a head to pound it in n the ground. I have made a few trap stakes like that
 
/ Nuts and bolts for welding #12  
Figure that you'll be welding thick rebar to thick nut material so you want to use as much power as your welder can muster. I throw a lot of amps at the nut/bar connection since you really only get the one pass.

For some reason, I have a hard time welding to rebar. Maybe the coating.

Re-bar (especially imported stuff) is made from 100% scrap metal so there are various different materials melted together with minimal QC of the content. I have had the stuff actually foam up and fall away. Boss bought a bunch of seamed pipe made in Italy real cheap. First job had that foaming problem and some other strange porosity problems. We threw away more than we used. Penny wise and pound foolish.

Ron
 
/ Nuts and bolts for welding #13  
Re-bar (especially imported stuff) is made from 100% scrap metal so there are various different materials melted together with minimal QC of the content. I have had the stuff actually foam up and fall away. Boss bought a bunch of seamed pipe made in Italy real cheap. First job had that foaming problem and some other strange porosity problems. We threw away more than we used. Penny wise and pound foolish.

Ron

Cutting it it can be bad too. I learned long ago not to cut rebar with my bandsaw. Too many hard inclusions that like to kill the set on the blade. $2.00 piece of rebar ruined a $45.00 saw blade. Never had a problem welding it though.
 
/ Nuts and bolts for welding #14  
I have never trapped and although I understand what you are talking about I would like to see a picture.

Will you post a picture of what you are making and how it is used ?

Thx
 
/ Nuts and bolts for welding #15  
Only weld on rebar that has a "W" stamped on the end. The other stuff isn't considered safely weldable. Also, some fasteners are still cadmium plated.
 
/ Nuts and bolts for welding #16  
ive made a ton of these trapping stakes for myself and others, from 2 to 3 foot to the long ones for DEEP water trapping i just use my stick welder and by the cheap zinc nuts - weld outdoors - i have a pair of OLD vice grips to hold the nut from sliding down the rebar - i like putting a big flat washer on first as the edges of the nut on a stake will catch the chain and get hunt up on the hex head when using foot holds - if you are using for conibears or just as a drown stake u can forgo the washer. Nice thing about rebar, it grabs nicely to wire to set your body hold traps at the right depth ;-)

I just lean the long rebar on something when welding and rotate it - the shorter stakes i weld vertical - never had any issues with them coming loose and have beat on them for many years, I use 7014 on all of mine - you can have your 6013 and 6011 i hate them on AC - havent welded any stakes with my new DC on 6010 or 7018s yet
 
/ Nuts and bolts for welding #17  
Weld nuts often for a thread fastener connection. Unplated, black iron or stainless work best.
Keep you snout out of the fumes no matter what your welding.
 

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