Trench for water lines. WoodMaxx backhoe not smooth in movements.

[RNeumann]

The restricter and an orifice fitting are used to do the same thing. One is adjusted with a knob and the other is drilled to your desired result. I don’t think either is wildly expensive. The orifice fitting is $1-$2 and the restricter is $25ish and up......plus fittings.

https://ph.parker.com/us/en/orifice-fittings-orifice-fitting-1/8-xhx7-s-047-orifice

 

[lennyzx11]

I need to look into this for my Woods Groundbreaker 7500. The down boom function just slams down even with rpms dropped to 1200 and super sensitive touch on the lever. It appears gravity and leverage are the culprits.

 

[BeerBarron]

Congrats on building your own forever/retirement home!!

I am a beginner and my FEL at times and backhoe seem way to quick with movement at times. Sometimes the whole tractor rocks. I have "feathered" the levers at times and it helps but I have a long way to go to be smooth.. Where they hard to install? Why the return flow only?

 

[Stimw]

I had a Jinma Hoe and last year I bought a new BK 215 that I am using on my 3510 Branson.
I am using tractor hydraulics and only run tractor at 12-1300 RPM and have plenty of digging force.
You might try backing off on RPM to find the best setting.

 

[ericm979]

Congrats on building your own forever/retirement home!!

I am a beginner and my FEL at times and backhoe seem way to quick with movement at times. Sometimes the whole tractor rocks. I have "feathered" the levers at times and it helps but I have a long way to go to be smooth.. Where they hard to install? Why the return flow only?

It was super easy on the Ansung as the cylinder fittings are JIC. Yours may be different. All I needed were NPT to JIC adaptors.

I used two valves because the rod end of the cylinder flows less oil per inch of movement. Also because gravity is pulling the BH down and resisting it moving up. So I expected I would want to have different restrictions for up and down. I have a similar valve on the dump circuit on my loader to reduce bucket flop, and it's a narrow adjustment between too much and not enough restriction. I set them up to restrict on outflow so there would not be cavitation. Turns out that I was probably overthinking it. There's a wide lattitude in adjustment and the up and down adjustments when set to a comfortable setting are not that different. So you could probably use one needle valve that restricts in both directions.

On my Ansung the boom is really touchy. The others are not, except the curl tends to go fast right at the end of it's travel, slam the bucket into the stop and throw most of the dirt out of the bucket. It's much less touchy than the boom though, so I'll probably not put a restrictor valve on that.

 

[BeerBarron]

It was super easy on the Ansung as the cylinder fittings are JIC. Yours may be different. All I needed were NPT to JIC adaptors.

I used two valves because the rod end of the cylinder flows less oil per inch of movement. Also because gravity is pulling the BH down and resisting it moving up. So I expected I would want to have different restrictions for up and down. I have a similar valve on the dump circuit on my loader to reduce bucket flop, and it's a narrow adjustment between too much and not enough restriction. I set them up to restrict on outflow so there would not be cavitation. Turns out that I was probably overthinking it. There's a wide lattitude in adjustment and the up and down adjustments when set to a comfortable setting are not that different. So you could probably use one needle valve that restricts in both directions.

On my Ansung the boom is really touchy. The others are not, except the curl tends to go fast right at the end of it's travel, slam the bucket into the stop and throw most of the dirt out of the bucket. It's much less touchy than the boom though, so I'll probably not put a restrictor valve on that.

Thanks... I will need to get more familiar with my machine before I start messing with the hydro lines. Not sure if there are standard thread and line sizes for all tractors or if they vary from brand to brand. It seems you could place the valves near the seat so you could adjust them while working.

 

[rogerius]

Back in town after 1 full day of digging. Everybody said, "practice, practice and more practice"; so I practised a full day, but somehow didn't work for me at the end of the day . I see smooth movements but slow only if 2 movements are done in the same time. Anyhow, I'm almost there, the water line is in the trench, pressurised with no leak. Next weekend I'll drop the conduit with wires, and put back the soil.

Lesson learn today: don't underestimate the weight of the machinery. For last 30ft I had to start digging from the house to the pump, so I finished being with the tractor above the trench. To be able to move the tractor out, I built a quick platform using 2x10 and guess what? a few pieces broke. Almost fall in the trench. I fell the rear side going down so I push the throttle to the floor and able to climb out. Not a pleasant moment. Here are couple pictures.

 

[Richard]

Nice job!

Would you have been able to back the tractor to the side of the ditch and dug at a 90 degree angle? (keeping you from having to drive across)

 

[rogerius]

Nice job!

Would you have been able to back the tractor to the side of the ditch and dug at a 90 degree angle? (keeping you from having to drive across)

I tried but didn't work. The ground around the house is not levelled yet, so I couldn't setup the hoe support feet.