Turbo NH 1620

[Whitbread]

After the last snowstorm, it was very apparent my 1620 could use some more *** for blowing large drifts. For a total of $300, it's now turbocharged!

Disclaimer, diesel performance is what I do for a living. I fully understand the potential risks and methods for minimizing them.

Please don't judge the charge pipe, I needed something quick and easy as this whole job was done in under 7 hours. I'll eventually build a nice pipe out of 1" ss tubing and use a proper reducer to step up to intake manifold size. I'll post more pics tomorrow.

 

[mpham]

Nice. How much more power did you get?

 

[Thomas]

Interesting. :thumbsup:

 

[The Fred]

Once the fuel was turned up I bet he had plenty more.

 

[90cummins]

Nice to see someone else turbo their FORD.
I installed a turbo on my 1720 in 2011 with excellent results.
I’ve use the extra hp often but it is most appreciated during the winter.
The additional hp lets me clear my driveway much quicker and I like that when the temperature is in the single digits.
90cummins

 

[Whitbread]

Finally got a chance today to mount a temporary boost gauge, tweak the fuel screw, and go out and play. Backed the fuel screw out just shy of two turns and HOLY CRAP! This is how it should've been from the factory. I can actually drive up my driveway in high range at full speed. Before, I'd have to drive in medium range or else it would stall out.

Went across the road to the neighbors place for a good test with the blower. His driveway had about 10" of snow on it and is even steeper than mine. Normally I'd have to creep as slow as possible in low range with a full blower width and feather speed as needed to keep it above 2krpm. With the turbo, I went up at full speed in low range and it stayed above 2500rpm.

I have an egt probe on the way to read with the multimeter, but considering the exhaust is cleaner at full load than when it was stock, I know it's not anywhere dangerous.

My only complaint is that I can't hear any whistle :laughing:. Otherwise, I don't know why I waited so long to do it!


Here's a video doing the neighbors driveway New Holland 162 turbo - YouTube


Here's some pictures of building along the way:

Cute turbo sourced for $250 from ebay




What we started with


Adapter plate




Fits like a charm


Pulled the banjo bolt that fed the cylinder head with oil, drilled head through, and welded a -4an bung on the end


Welded up a -6an drain flange


Used a sharp punch to pierce the oil pan instead of drilling a hole and making shavings, tig'ed on a 6an male.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Nice work. I've dreamed of doing the same to my JD 3005, (under-)powered by a Yanmar 3 cyl 1.3L diesel motor. Factory rated at 27hp, my fear is the rest of the drivetrain is already near its limits, and while I could gain a few HP at the motor, might overload the gearboxes/pto system. The research I've done shows the trans only used on smaller tractors, none larger. I'll risk it once I've got another tractor in the barn as back up.

 

[Whitbread]

Nice work. I've dreamed of doing the same to my JD 3005, (under-)powered by a Yanmar 3 cyl 1.3L diesel motor. Factory rated at 27hp, my fear is the rest of the drivetrain is already near its limits, and while I could gain a few HP at the motor, might overload the gearboxes/pto system. The research I've done shows the trans only used on smaller tractors, none larger. I'll risk it once I've got another tractor in the barn as back up.

If you're not doing anything abusive with the tractor, I wouldnt be that worried about breaking the tractor. Putting an extra few horses through the pto system isn't going to spell instant death. Hit something real hard without a shear point in your pto driveline and you might have issues, just use common sense.

I don't 100% agree with "if you need more power buy a bigger tractor". It's a great theory, but I don't want/can't use a bigger tractor. I love how small and nimble the 1620 is. I couldn't fit anything bigger where I go logging or easily maneuver around blowing snow. The current power level with the turbo added l is perfect and what it could've/should've been from day 1. 28hp just wasn't enough when hills and snow were involved.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Not being abusive... geesh, my poor tractor gets run hard as it can go already, if it had more power, I'd use it... I'm actually impressed how much my lil tractor has taken, considering what I've subjected it to over the past 5 years.

So, as to your 'diesel performance' backround, would you have a suggestion what turbo I might look into for my tractor? Id like to attain peak boost/power at 2800-3000 rpm, out of a 3 cyl 1.3L diesel motor.

 

[Whitbread]

So, as to your 'diesel performance' backround, would you have a suggestion what turbo I might look into for my tractor? Id like to attain peak boost/power at 2800-3000 rpm, out of a 3 cyl 1.3L diesel motor.

Run the same turbo I'm using. It's originally spec'ed out for a yanmar 1.4L 3 cylinder and works just perfectly on my 1.3L. You won't be sorry you added the turbo .

 

[dieselcrawler]

Ive played with N/A diesels, added turbos, etc... had several GM 6.2L IDI's...

So what exactly is that cute lil turbo you put on there?

Have you checked boost psi?

 

[Whitbread]

Ive played with N/A diesels, added turbos, etc... had several GM 6.2L IDI's...

So what exactly is that cute lil turbo you put on there?

Have you checked boost psi?

It's the oem spec turbo for a yanmar 1.4L 3 cylinder 3tn84. I gave the link in ebay for it a few posts back. Wastegate is factory set at 10psi according to my temporary boost gauge.


Egt probe showed up today so I'll tap the manifold and get some readings. Target is 1150F of less sustained at max load, that's plenty safe for long term durability.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Oops, missed the link to the turbo... thanks, I checked it out.

Looks like you had to fab an outlet flange for the exhaust also? Do you have any further support for the muffler/stack, or is it all hanging cantilevered off the turbo housing?

 

[Whitbread]

Oops, missed the link to the turbo... thanks, I checked it out.

Looks like you had to fab an outlet flange for the exhaust also? Do you have any further support for the muffler/stack, or is it all hanging cantilevered off the turbo housing?

No worries!

Yes, I made an outlet flange also, I guess I didn't snap any pics of it during assembly haha. There's no further support on the muffler. It's within 1/2" of the distance from the muffler to engine as it was before, so if NH determined it didn't need any additional support, I don't think it does now either. I upped the idle to 1000rpm and it made the engine substantially smoother at idle and the exhaust stack doesn't wiggle at all anymore.



So I though I had the tractor pretty well sorted now, but lent it to my friend for 20 minutes and he manages to bend the auger. Claims he never felt it hit anything, but this is the last time he's allowed to borrow it haha. At least he gladly offered to help pull it apart and toss any $$ needed to fix it. Going to build a new shaft and weld the old corkscrew parts onto it. Bearings were shot anyway, so I guess it was time. Going to convert to some actual sealed ball bearings that are $10 each, not junk metal shields like NH used for $50 each.

 

[Whitbread]

I refuse to pay what NH wants for crap shielded bearings, so browsing of a bearing catalog turned up a 25mmx52mmx15mm sealed bearing that was on the shelf at the local napa for $16/ea. They cross over to a medium duty truck pilot bearing. As the shaft was 1", that meant only ~.015" needed turned off it to make it 25mm. For bearing carriers, I had some 3/8" plates waterjetted out to save time. I chucked them in the lathe and counterbored for the bearing to sandwich between the two plates and blower housing. I also made some shaft lock collars as those weren't available in town today.





New $24 piece of 2" sch40 pipe for the tube and the straighter side of the corkscew welded on. Coming back together!

 

[spitter]

Excellent work!! Diesels + Turbo = :dance1::drink:

 

[RickB]

I refuse to pay what NH wants for crap shielded bearings, so browsing of a bearing catalog turned up a 25mmx52mmx15mm sealed bearing that was on the shelf at the local napa for $16/ea. They cross over to a medium duty truck pilot bearing. As the shaft was 1", that meant only ~.015" needed turned off it to make it 25mm. For bearing carriers, I had some 3/8" plates waterjetted out to save time. I chucked them in the lathe and counterbored for the bearing to sandwich between the two plates and blower housing. I also made some shaft lock collars as those weren't available in town today.





New $24 piece of 2" sch40 pipe for the tube and the straighter side of the corkscew welded on. Coming back together!

That application would be much better served with spherical bearings supported in steel flanges. Cylindrical bearings will not last. Do it once, do it right.

 

[aczlan]

That application would be much better served with spherical bearings supported in steel flanges. Cylindrical bearings will not last. Do it once, do it right.

That is how Loftness built my 7' snowblower.

Aaron Z

 

[Whitbread]

That application would be much better served with spherical bearings supported in steel flanges. Cylindrical bearings will not last. Do it once, do it right.

What advantages would a curved outer race ball bearing offer over the straight race? A curved outer race and straight outer race 6205 bearing (what I'm using) have the same load capacities. If I ever get more than 2000lbs radial load and 1000lbs of axial load on each of these bearings or shaft rpm over 9k, I'm going to have far larger issues than bearings wearing out prematurely.

The setup you described is what was in there from NH with only shielded bearings and at 300 hours was completely junk. One inner bearing race was pounded hard onto/into the shaft and disentrated upon removal, other slipped off as it was supposed to but sounds like rocks in a coffee can haha. Simply replacing those bearings with sealed curved race would've been the least amount of work, but they aren't readily available in BFE. The 6205 bearing I'm using is in stock at Napa, auto value, and any of the truck shops in town.

 

[RickB]

Spherical bearings (also called self-aligning bearings) are used where shaft deflection and movement or damage to support members can and will cause the support member to vary from perfectly perpendicular to the shaft centerline where the shaft passes through the bearing. This has got nothing to do with strength. It is about radial loading on the bearing’s inner and outer races. As with anything, there are varying quality grades of spherical bearings available and high quality 1” versions are available in sealed and relube styles for about the same cost as your cylindrical bearings. Supporting flanges are cheap and durable.

I’m not suggesting the OEM bearing in that application is/was high quality or what you should have used. I AM saying the design is sound and the change you made is not something I would do under any circumstances. I suspect your modification will last a significantly lesser interval than what you took off.