branson 4720h cleaning radiator

[Slowpoke Slim]

Eric,

I'm don't think I'd want to come all the way forward, just to double back and go all the way back again. I don't do a whole lot of rough country work with my tractor, but I do push and move quite a bit of snow in winter. I do regularly go through snow deeper than my tractor clearance, and don't think dragging an exhaust through snow would be a good plan if I can help it. One of the other reasons I was thinking if I could keep the exhaust run relatively short, and go to a stack from the back of the engine, then I'd really have nothing down there (at least on the exhaust) to drag through snow, or drag through a brush pile or whatever. Still kind of thinking the whole thing over. And I was thinking of some form of straight through muffler as part of the stack, wrapped in a heat shield similar to Lou's pics. With the first way I was thinking of running it, with really 2 separate 180 degree bends in it, there would be very little demand for a quiet muffler. Especially if I come all the way up to the top, and even slightly above, the top of the cab corner. If I remember right from my old fabbing days, 2 90 degree bends will cancel out most exhaust echo, and really tone down the noise.

I know without a doubt my soot cooker is coming off. I'm just thinking of how I want it to be once that's done, and this seems like a good time to reroute the exhaust to a different path than where it is now.

Lou,

Thanks for the pics. As always, you are a great resource to the rest of us Branson owners. Looks like yours goes, exhaust manifold>>turbo>>muffler>>90 degree>>90 degree>>up the stack? I don't think my smaller chassis has enough room to do everything the way yours is laid out. But now I'm thinking maybe 2 90's similar to yours, one out of the manifold (mine exits up) to bend it horizontal, and one to go up the stack could work, if I have enough room between my cab and my loader. I'll have to look at that again. The thought of 2 separate 180 degree turns doesn't sound good to me, but it would let me get the pipe underneath the loader entirely so that I can make the bend to go out to the corner of the cab. I may have to do a 180 out of the manifold to clear the hood and the loader, then 2 separate 90's to go horizontal and back, then up the cab corner.

 

[Cougsfan]

What would you do for a muffler? Put it on the stack, or do without?

How about cutting the tail pipe where it comes out of the engine compartment by the front wheel and running a low exhaust along the bottom of the tractor and out the back, like a truck? You woudn't want to do that if you run a stationary pto implement like a chipper as you'd be breathing exhaust, but if you're not doing that it might be an option.

I have heard of people putting a Tractor Supply muffler where the soot burner is. If you have a cab, coming out the back might be a bad idea as you may get fumes in the cab if the rear window is open. Running it under to the back looks a little problematic too as it doesn't appear it would be that easy to tuck it in enough to eliminate any chance of smashing it flat. I agree that up over the top as Lou's machine has would be the ideal exhaust routing. You would have to make provisions to prevent it from becoming a water trap.

 

[ericm979]

On my 3725 there's two big braces under the tractor that run from the rear axle to the loader mount. They're the lowest thing on the frame. If I was going to make a skid plate it'd be level with those braces. I think one could tuck an exhaust pipe up so it would not extend lower than the braces.

But I agree that running it up above the cab would be better, if it's possible.

 

[LouNY]

I have heard of people putting a Tractor Supply muffler where the soot burner is. If you have a cab, coming out the back might be a bad idea as you may get fumes in the cab if the rear window is open. Running it under to the back looks a little problematic too as it doesn't appear it would be that easy to tuck it in enough to eliminate any chance of smashing it flat. I agree that up over the top as Lou's machine has would be the ideal exhaust routing. You would have to make provisions to prevent it from becoming a water trap.

I see that I didn't get a good picture of the top of my exhaust stack, it is bent out slightly away from the cab and cut of vertically leaving an oval opening, it does catch some snow and rain. I have wondered some times if it would get enough in to cause problems, so far it hasn't. It has blown out some sooty water a few times and occasionally a puff of snow when she starts. It's not setup for a rain flapper like the straight up pipes are.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

If I ended up with a vertical stack, I would definitely put a flapper on top of the exit pipe. Hopefully that would keep most everything out of the pipe. Looked at it a bit more this morning. Looks like I'd have to come out of the manifold, and bend back down 180 degrees to drop below the bottom edge of the hood, then make the turn to come out the side, back to the cab, around the loader mount (between the loader and the cab glass), and then up the corner. Should be able to make up some kind of mounting brackets to come off the side of the vertical grab handle, and space it off enough I can grab the handle without getting burned by the stack. I'd do some kind of heat shield similar to Lou's factory screen.

 

[Coyote machine]

FWIW, to get your radiator clean you could buy the kit I reference here: Radiator Genie - LOCKNLUBE

I haven't used it, but I do have some of their grease gun fittings for locking to hand held guns, and they work great.
This kit would allow you to use either air or water to clean your radiator, and would save all the efforts suggested for modding your exhaust.

Additionally, if your tractor is under warranty I would not mod your exhaust until out of warranty. 1st because the manufacturer could claim your mod is the cause of any issues you might claim during warranty. 2nd because you could end up with engine problems, if for instance you do two 90's or 2 180's in the piping. I'm not a backpressure exhaust specialist, but I know for things like dryer ducting adding 1 elbow is the equivalent of 10 liner feet of the same diameter pipe. If you create too much backpressure it could adversely affect your driveability/engine function.

Also the EPA specifies the soot can, and removing it could be a federal offense, and punishments for removal could be very stiff and possibly a large fine too.

I can't say about the EPA's role in enforcement, but I'd want to know before modding a recently mandated final Tier 4 system.

Simplest is usually best practice, from my experience in engineering and auto shop ownership/management for over ten years on foreign autos exclusively.

Think it out and decide, but either way I'd get the kit I linked to.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

FWIW, to get your radiator clean you could buy the kit I reference here: Radiator Genie - LOCKNLUBE

I haven't used it, but I do have some of their grease gun fittings for locking to hand held guns, and they work great.
This kit would allow you to use either air or water to clean your radiator, and would save all the efforts suggested for modding your exhaust.

Additionally, if your tractor is under warranty I would not mod your exhaust until out of warranty. 1st because the manufacturer could claim your mod is the cause of any issues you might claim during warranty. 2nd because you could end up with engine problems, if for instance you do two 90's or 2 180's in the piping. I'm not a backpressure exhaust specialist, but I know for things like dryer ducting adding 1 elbow is the equivalent of 10 liner feet of the same diameter pipe. If you create too much backpressure it could adversely affect your driveability/engine function.

Also the EPA specifies the soot can, and removing it could be a federal offense, and punishments for removal could be very stiff and possibly a large fine too.

I can't say about the EPA's role in enforcement, but I'd want to know before modding a recently mandated final Tier 4 system.

Simplest is usually best practice, from my experience in engineering and auto shop ownership/management for over ten years on foreign autos exclusively.

Think it out and decide, but either way I'd get the kit I linked to.

I have the same kit with an air wand and a water wand. I use the air wand to blow my radiator and coolers clear from the back side. No way would I ever consider using the water wand in those tight finned cores. You'd make a muddy, gummy mess that would probably turn to concrete when it dried. But using the air wand on LOW psi, works perfectly.

Not really worried about back pressure on a normally aspirated small displacement diesel engine. I'm *quite sure* that any amount of bends and pipe will be *infinitely* free-er breathing that that @#$%! soot cooker.

To each their own when it comes to "modding". But I've already had enough of the filter on mine. Oh yeah, it's coming off. The only thing left to consider is if I reroute the exhaust pipe somewhere else, or leave it routed as stock. I'd like to reroute it if it's doable. And the EPA mandates a tractor manufacturer can't SELL new tractors without this garbage on them. It says NOTHING about tractor owners keeping it in place.

I'll keep all the parts that come off. That way if I ever trade it or sell it, the "new owner" can decide if they want to put that garbage back on or not. Once its off, I'll never put it back on, I promise you that.

To each their own on "modding" I guess.

 

[Coyote machine]

I have the same kit with an air wand and a water wand. I use the air wand to blow my radiator and coolers clear from the back side. No way would I ever consider using the water wand in those tight finned cores. You'd make a muddy, gummy mess that would probably turn to concrete when it dried. But using the air wand on LOW psi, works perfectly.

Not really worried about back pressure on a normally aspirated small displacement diesel engine. I'm *quite sure* that any amount of bends and pipe will be *infinitely* free-er breathing that that @#$%! soot cooker.

To each their own when it comes to "modding". But I've already had enough of the filter on mine. Oh yeah, it's coming off. The only thing left to consider is if I reroute the exhaust pipe somewhere else, or leave it routed as stock. I'd like to reroute it if it's doable. And the EPA mandates a tractor manufacturer can't SELL new tractors without this garbage on them. It says NOTHING about tractor owners keeping it in place.

I'll keep all the parts that come off. That way if I ever trade it or sell it, the "new owner" can decide if they want to put that garbage back on or not. Once its off, I'll never put it back on, I promise you that.

To each their own on "modding" I guess.

You're missing that the machine has to remain in compliance during warranty for any dealer AND the tractor manufacturer to honor one's warranty. Once removed during the warranty time the manufacturer is under no obligation to honor, and in fact they would be violating federal law if they did any work related to the engine function(s) on a modified system with any part of the mandated system removed, regardless of who did the removal.

Mod away and brag about it on TBN all you want. Ignore the risks at your own peril. Your warranty papers should describe the penalties for EPA required items and the consequences of removing them. Can, designed into engine. Mods by backyard shade tree mechanics, not so much. It's your machine, do what you want...

 

[ptsg]

Every thread Coyote gets into, he has to make it controversial and so dramatic... It his tractor, he does whatever he wants to it.

Same tractors are sold in EU without any of that DPF crap and a regular muffler in it's place. They breathe so much better without being choked. I'm sure we all know that this DPF crap it's just a way for the big boys to make easy money. It just kills engines in no time and just makes us burn a lot more fuel for nothing. There is no point on running wide open to keep the DPF clean and on top of that it will still dump all the crap off during regen.

Back pressure ain't really an issue. Again, they sell the same engine with turbo and DPF so the back pressure will be even higher and it still is not a problem. By removing the DPF, it just makes it better.

Slowpoke Slim, please share some pictures with us whenever you do the mods. I have some pictures of the exhaust on my F36 (3515) with the same A1700 engine but without the DPF, just ask if you need it.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

You're missing that the machine has to remain in compliance during warranty for any dealer AND the tractor manufacturer to honor one's warranty. Once removed during the warranty time the manufacturer is under no obligation to honor, and in fact they would be violating federal law if they did any work related to the engine function(s) on a modified system with any part of the mandated system removed, regardless of who did the removal.

Mod away and brag about it on TBN all you want. Ignore the risks at your own peril. Your warranty papers should describe the penalties for EPA required items and the consequences of removing them. Can, designed into engine. Mods by backyard shade tree mechanics, not so much. It's your machine, do what you want...

And you're missing the point that I've ALREADY talked to my dealer about this. He's told me point blank that it will make NO difference in my warranty coverage. And he's the one that would be doing any warranty work on my tractor. So I'll take his word over yours. Any day.

As ptsg stated (correctly), they sell this EXACT same tractor in other countries with the only difference being there is a muffler where the U.S. version's soot cooker goes. There is a soot cooker, and a data logger on the U.S. version. By removing only those 2 things, you eliminate the entire "emissions system" on these models. No other changes or "mods" are needed. There is NO computer system, nothing to "hack", no fuel system changes need to be made. Several members here have already done this. Each one has stated it made a performance gain by removing.

There is no risk.

 

[ericm979]

Same tractors are sold in EU without any of that DPF crap and a regular muffler in it's place. They breathe so much better without being choked. I'm sure we all know that this DPF crap it's just a way for the big boys to make easy money. It just kills engines in no time and just makes us burn a lot more fuel for nothing. There is no point on running wide open to keep the DPF clean and on top of that it will still dump all the crap off during regen.

Back pressure ain't really an issue. Again, they sell the same engine with turbo and DPF so the back pressure will be even higher and it still is not a problem. By removing the DPF, it just makes it better.

Bransons don't do regens. There's no additional fuel injector. There may be changes to how the fuel injection is timed on the DPF vs non DPF engines that could affect fuel economy slightly but I've not found any references for that.

Branson does rate the different engines slightly differently in the US vs elsewhere. I assume that reflects their actual output. So a US model engine that Branson says makes 32hp at the PTO (or whatever it is for the model in consideration) makes 32hp at the PTO with the DPF in place.

We don't know that a properly functioning DPF reduces exhaust flow or performance any more than a muffler does. Modern catalytic converters in gas vehicles aren't a significant restriction, so the knowledge and technology to make good flowing catalyst is there. New pickup truck diesels are making more power than ever, even with more stringent emissions regulations than < 75hp tractors are subject to. If my 3725's 2.1 liter Cumins B engine made the same power per liter as the 2020 Dodge Cumins 6.7 liter it'd be putting out 125 hp instead of 37.

 

[Coyote machine]

And you're missing the point that I've ALREADY talked to my dealer about this. He's told me point blank that it will make NO difference in my warranty coverage. And he's the one that would be doing any warranty work on my tractor. So I'll take his word over yours. Any day.

As ptsg stated (correctly), they sell this EXACT same tractor in other countries with the only difference being there is a muffler where the U.S. version's soot cooker goes. There is a soot cooker, and a data logger on the U.S. version. By removing only those 2 things, you eliminate the entire "emissions system" on these models. No other changes or "mods" are needed. There is NO computer system, nothing to "hack", no fuel system changes need to be made. Several members here have already done this. Each one has stated it made a performance gain by removing.

There is no risk.

Sorry, wrong answer. There IS risk to anyone who tampers with any emissions system, and or removes or modifies its components. (I'll link to the appropriate EPA regulations and specifically their extensive fine(s) for individuals and manufacturers later in this post).

First let me dispel the notion that seems to wrongly conclude that back pressure would occur by removing emissions components. I never said that- what I posed for the OP, was that using several 90's or 180's in modifying his tractor exhaust could cause issues, that's all, nothing more.

I'm not creating any drama, or controversy. I am stating facts about how things are done here in the USA, NOT Portugal, or anywhere in Europe; which has NO bearing on the OP's engine whatsoever. And if people want to do a comparison of USA to Europe roll back to Volkswagen, Porsche/Audi for the clearest example of EPA enforcement of defeat and tampering with US compliance for diesel vehicles. If there are violations they will prosecute, and obviously do and have to date, from the USA all the way to Europe they beat the manufacturers of those vehicles into submission for all the reasons well known to the entire World. They're serious as a heart attack about non-compliance, and people modding mandated emissions systems...

On or off road engines are all covered by the the EPA's emission rules. And while on the subject of European diesels, road use diesels are being banned in numerous cities across Europe as we discuss this topic. Not yet applied to off road like tractors, but it will likely soon follow, or an alternative like US emission devices- no one knows currently.

Here is the EPA fines and penalty document: https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/documents/vehicleengine-penalty-policy_0.pdf

And here is an excerpt from the 30+ page doc:

Under Section 205(a) of the Act, 42 U.S.C. 8 7524(a), the maximum penalty for
violations of the vehicle and engine requirements under Title I1 of the Act is $25,000 per vehicle
or engine, with two exceptions. The maximum penalty for violations of the tampering
prohibition when committed by any person other than a manufacturer is $2,500 per vehicle, and
the maximum penalty for violations of the defeat device prohibition is $2,500 per device.
These maximum penalty amounts were increased from $25,000 to $32,500 and from $2,500 to
$2,750 for violations occurring after March 15,2004, through January 12,2009, and to $37,500
and $3,750 for violations occurring thereafter (see Civil Monetarv Penalty Inflation Ad-iustment
m, 69 Fed. Reg. 7 12 1 (Feb. 13,2004) and Civil Monetarv Penalty Inflation Adiustment Rule,
73 Fed. Reg. 75340 (Dec. 11,2008)).

So there are the FACTS. And what one's dealer tells them doesn't change anything. If you mod your engine and your dealer looks the other way about you having done so, they and the manufacturer would likely get dragged into any action taken against the tractor owner.

Regardless of what they tell you now, it's NOT in writing, and no smart dealer would put their manufacturer in the bind of having to go against the EPA on warranty on a modified engine. No smart manufacturer would attempt to warranty a non-compliant engine for one customer, especially since you the buyer did the mods.

Removal IS a violation, regardless of any, 'it runs so much better claims' made by an owner.

Personally, I don't care what any individual owner chooses to do to their engine/exhaust, etc. I get it that tier 4 final is a cumbersome regulation on tractors and their owners; a large part of my not buying anything past tier 4 prior to final specks. It is however the law of the land, like it or not. Tamper with it at one's own risk. Remember, ignorance of the law is not an excuse.

What I do care about is pointing out to those who may be misinformed about the law and fines that could easily be imposed, that they DO exist, and the statement that the EPA says NOTHING about anybody but the manufacture having to comply, and NOT modify a EPA specked engine, is ill informed and wrong. Just because people have done it, and results were supposedly better performance is not the point. Modifying is breaking federal law. The RISK is stated above. It IS enforceable.
Do what you want to- and don't shoot the messenger - I'm merely stating facts.

 

[ptsg]

I'm not comparing anything. How could I even compare two different Continents?

Actually, looks like you are the one comparing stuff, not sure why.

You mentioned: " I am stating facts about how things are done here in the USA, NOT Portugal, or anywhere in Europe; which has NO bearing on the OP's engine whatsoever."

In fact, it actually matters to the OP, because the same exact tractor is sold here without the emissions system and I mentioned just to prove the fact that the OP's tractor will work just fine, if not better without it. You don't see me comparing whatsoever on my previous post.

And by the way, if the OP was willing to spend a lot of money on shipping, he could actually find a European or Australian dealer that would ship a new and stock exhaust pipe and muffler to him and the tractor would still look exactly as original without having the looks of a "shade tree mechanic mod" as you said.

 

[LouNY]

Good luck with your exhausts,
it would be nice to just bolt on the European exhaust,
a nice clean looking system, unfortunately it wouldn't get the exhaust
pointing upwards.
I have to wonder on these newer one that don't have a provision
for the exhaust to come thru the hood like so many older tractors did,
ie. the IH 560-1066 style. What would a 180 just coming out from the hood and going up
be like.
Lou

 

[Coyote machine]

I'm not comparing anything. How could I even compare two different Continents?

Actually, looks like you are the one comparing stuff, not sure why.

You mentioned: " I am stating facts about how things are done here in the USA, NOT Portugal, or anywhere in Europe; which has NO bearing on the OP's engine whatsoever."

In fact, it actually matters to the OP, because the same exact tractor is sold here without the emissions system and I mentioned just to prove the fact that the OP's tractor will work just fine, if not better without it. You don't see me comparing whatsoever on my previous post.

And by the way, if the OP was willing to spend a lot of money on shipping, he could actually find a European or Australian dealer that would ship a new and stock exhaust pipe and muffler to him and the tractor would still look exactly as original without having the looks of a "shade tree mechanic mod" as you said.

OK. You're NOT comparing anything? So what's this from your referenced prior post:

"Same tractors are sold in EU without any of that DPF crap and a regular muffler in it's place. They breathe so much better without being choked..."

From where I stand, that IS a comparison of 'same tractors/regular muffler', (from Europe). And again two continents tractor's compared above: 'he could actually find a European or Australian dealer that'...

Maybe where you live comparison is defined differently, but I suspect not. What's the big deal if you or I do or don't compare things done differently on different continents anyway? My original point is that what goes on in Europe, Australia or elsewhere does not bear on the issues around enforcement of emissions controls or defeat mechanisms or tampering on EPA spec engines required to comply with regs here in the USA.

Undoubtedly one could theoretically import non- compliant parts from around the World, BUT that is highly unlikely due to cost prohibitive S/H, not to mention importing or exporting those parts into the US and out of a foreign country may well be restricted as well. So though it's a interesting way to get around regs here, it is likely prohibited. Read the EPA rules- it may be stated as such.
Again, anyone is able to circumvent the law if so inclined. This is also why things like this are regulated by laws in various jurisdictions. THey're laws, not suggestions for a reason. In this case to reduce the instances of cancer causing chemicals and minute particulate matter in the air humans breathe. Sort of an important issue, except for those who don't give a crap about anyone except their own lungs.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Sorry, wrong answer. There IS risk to anyone who tampers with any emissions system, and or removes or modifies its components. (I'll link to the appropriate EPA regulations and specifically their extensive fine(s) for individuals and manufacturers later in this post).

First let me dispel the notion that seems to wrongly conclude that back pressure would occur by removing emissions components. I never said that- what I posed for the OP, was that using several 90's or 180's in modifying his tractor exhaust could cause issues, that's all, nothing more.

I'm not creating any drama, or controversy. I am stating facts about how things are done here in the USA, NOT Portugal, or anywhere in Europe; which has NO bearing on the OP's engine whatsoever. And if people want to do a comparison of USA to Europe roll back to Volkswagen, Porsche/Audi for the clearest example of EPA enforcement of defeat and tampering with US compliance for diesel vehicles. If there are violations they will prosecute, and obviously do and have to date, from the USA all the way to Europe they beat the manufacturers of those vehicles into submission for all the reasons well known to the entire World. They're serious as a heart attack about non-compliance, and people modding mandated emissions systems...

On or off road engines are all covered by the the EPA's emission rules. And while on the subject of European diesels, road use diesels are being banned in numerous cities across Europe as we discuss this topic. Not yet applied to off road like tractors, but it will likely soon follow, or an alternative like US emission devices- no one knows currently.

Here is the EPA fines and penalty document: https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/documents/vehicleengine-penalty-policy_0.pdf

And here is an excerpt from the 30+ page doc:

Under Section 205(a) of the Act, 42 U.S.C. 8 7524(a), the maximum penalty for
violations of the vehicle and engine requirements under Title I1 of the Act is $25,000 per vehicle
or engine, with two exceptions. The maximum penalty for violations of the tampering
prohibition when committed by any person other than a manufacturer is $2,500 per vehicle, and
the maximum penalty for violations of the defeat device prohibition is $2,500 per device.
These maximum penalty amounts were increased from $25,000 to $32,500 and from $2,500 to
$2,750 for violations occurring after March 15,2004, through January 12,2009, and to $37,500
and $3,750 for violations occurring thereafter (see Civil Monetarv Penalty Inflation Ad-iustment
m, 69 Fed. Reg. 7 12 1 (Feb. 13,2004) and Civil Monetarv Penalty Inflation Adiustment Rule,
73 Fed. Reg. 75340 (Dec. 11,2008)).

So there are the FACTS. And what one's dealer tells them doesn't change anything. If you mod your engine and your dealer looks the other way about you having done so, they and the manufacturer would likely get dragged into any action taken against the tractor owner.

Regardless of what they tell you now, it's NOT in writing, and no smart dealer would put their manufacturer in the bind of having to go against the EPA on warranty on a modified engine. No smart manufacturer would attempt to warranty a non-compliant engine for one customer, especially since you the buyer did the mods.

Removal IS a violation, regardless of any, 'it runs so much better claims' made by an owner.

Personally, I don't care what any individual owner chooses to do to their engine/exhaust, etc. I get it that tier 4 final is a cumbersome regulation on tractors and their owners; a large part of my not buying anything past tier 4 prior to final specks. It is however the law of the land, like it or not. Tamper with it at one's own risk. Remember, ignorance of the law is not an excuse.

What I do care about is pointing out to those who may be misinformed about the law and fines that could easily be imposed, that they DO exist, and the statement that the EPA says NOTHING about anybody but the manufacture having to comply, and NOT modify a EPA specked engine, is ill informed and wrong. Just because people have done it, and results were supposedly better performance is not the point. Modifying is breaking federal law. The RISK is stated above. It IS enforceable.
Do what you want to- and don't shoot the messenger - I'm merely stating facts.

Ok, slow down. Take a deep breath. Now relax a little bit.

First, I can see where part of your confusion is coming from.

That area of your post, that I made bold. All of it. Every single word and syllable of it. Is concerning Vehicles or engines being manufactured in, or being imported into the U.S. And it is strictly rules against the MANUFACTURER or the IMPORTER. You are trying to compare apples to space shuttles.

There. Is. NO. Federal. Law, Rule, or Mandate. For. An. Individual. Equipment. Owner. To. Leave. The. Tier. Emissions. Equipment. On. Their. Off Road. Farm. Equipment.

Now. Go. And. Relax.

I actually sat down and read that entire EPA rule. Thanks for that. Now you owe me 20 minutes of my life back.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Good luck with your exhausts,
it would be nice to just bolt on the European exhaust,
a nice clean looking system, unfortunately it wouldn't get the exhaust
pointing upwards.
I have to wonder on these newer one that don't have a provision
for the exhaust to come thru the hood like so many older tractors did,
ie. the IH 560-1066 style. What would a 180 just coming out from the hood and going up
be like.
Lou

Lou,

Yeah, if they had just brought the exhaust out the back top area of the hood, that would have been fine with me. I don't think I could do anything like that without it looking shoddy afterwards. Since the hood hinges up from the back, there'd have to be a slot cut pretty big in the hood for the exhaust to clear as the hood opened. It would still have to be tall enough not to blow exhaust in the face of an open station operator though, so maybe they're considering the added risk of limb or tree damage from the exhaust getting whacked.

 

[Coyote machine]

I quote from my earlier post: "when committed by any person other than a manufacturer is $2,500 per vehicle, and"....

What exactly isn't clear about ANY PERSON? That means individuals, shade tree mechanics, individual shop owner's, ANYONE OTHER than manufacturers.

So slim, there IS a need to leave it on, (no tampering), and there ARE numerous requirements to NOT remove any part of it; other than to replace defective components with working ones. In addition for NO ONE to remove ANY part of the emissions components, whether they consist of one or a hundred components...

Is further detail needed -Slo? Take whatever amount of time needed to re-read what I quoted. One of the two exceptions IS when individuals- like you or others who decide to mod their tractor do so and render themself as having broken the EPA rules as stated in the document. It is about manufacturers AND individuals, which you fall into the individual violator category IF you remove, modify or tamper with ANY emission device on your off road diesel tractor. End of story.

 

[Cougsfan]

Coyote, I suspect that you worry about a lot of things that people don't need to be worry about. I'd be curious to see the statistics of how many people are denied warranty because of a modified exhaust routing. Probably an incredibly small list. And I'd bet if you turned someone into the EPA for removing their Tractor's soot can, nothing would come of it.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

So you didn't read the document, did you?

That document, is for manufacturers, importers and companies that "introduce engines or vehicles into commerce".

End of story.

Anyone else is welcome to read the document for themselves. I recommend reading the entire document.

I am done with you.