Widen rear tread width

[Jesser02Ex]

I have read several posts here about widening the rear tires on my 5220R. My tractor has a dish/rim combo that allows the most flexibility for width. Since I have not done this before, I wanted to seek validation before I tackle this task. Once widened, I will fill the tires with a 50% window washer mix.

Here is my manual page, it says nothing about the dish/rim combos.



My inner dish is turned to give the most spacing:


I believe all I need to do is unbolt the rim from the dish and move it to the outside inner dish and torque the bolts per the manual.



Am I missing anything? I have everything to chock the front wheels so it will not roll as I lift the rear of the tractor.

 

[ericm979]

You could check with the dealer that the setup you plan to use is approved. It should be in the manual.

You'll need a way to move the rim and tire around without it falling down (it'll be really heavy) and a way to line it up to get the bolts in. Some people here have used a greased sheet of plywood. If I was doing it I'd chain it to the ROPS or something else so it wouldn't fall over.

 

[dieselcrawler]

You should look at the mounting bracket on the wheel, if it's offset closer to one side or the other, you can gain/loose width if you swap tires/wheels side to side as well.

 

[ovrszd]

You should look at the mounting bracket on the wheel, if it's offset closer to one side or the other, you can gain/loose width if you swap tires/wheels side to side as well.

Yep. Looks offset.

Currently it's offset in plus mounted inside the center. A lot of width to be gained.

 

[Jesser02Ex]

Eric, thanks for the idea of using the ROPS to keep the wheel upright.

Richard, yes the dish is pushing outside, the well is inset on the dish. I’ll mice the wheel to be outset on the outset dish. I believe this will give me maximum offset with factory adjustments.

Thanks all

 

[oosik]

View attachment 586200 OK. This is from my Kubota M6040 OP Manual. The first bigger sketch shows one position with the hub dished inwards. If your welded attachment tabs, on the outer rim, are offset, there will be three more positions, with the hub dished inwards.

The next four sketches show the four positions with the hub dished outwards.

Each of the eight positions is only an overall change - in total width - of a few inches. However, the idea being - ideal width when doing row crop farming.

The reason Kubota does not recommend the added three positions when the hub is dished in - possibility of the outer tire making contact with components of the tractor.

So, if the attachment tabs on your rims are offset - you too will have eight width positions. No matter what you do - - be certain that there will be adequate clearance if you do make width adjustment.

 

[ptsg]

This is from the 15 series. It's odd that they didn't put that info on the 20 series for some reason.



The dimensions won't be the same as this is a smaller size tractor.

 

[Jesser02Ex]

It is odd that it wasn't included in the 20 series manual. You have posted this image before and I referenced it before checking my manual in hopes I would have the same graphic. I also looked at a downloaded manual for the 20 series, it also excluded this graphic.

My rear wheels are currently set to "E", but I will move them to "F" for maximum stability. Thanks for re-posting this graphic.

This is from the 15 series. It's odd that they didn't put that info on the 20 series for some reason.

View attachment 586202

The dimensions won't be the same as this is a smaller size tractor.

 

[CobyRupert]

My rear wheels are currently set to "E", but I will move them to "F" for maximum stability. Thanks for re-posting this graphic.

Not exactly maximum. The diagram shows the tabs in the center of the rim width. As overszd noted, the tab on the outer rim is offset (not in center of rim's width). - Or looks to be anyways. If you move that tire to opposite side (so that tread direction remains correct), then the tire spacing will be maximum width (stability).

 

[ptsg]

To be honest, the diagram they provided can be a bit confusion as they didn't draw the axle so we could have a reference on what is the inside and the outside of the wheel.

 

[Jesser02Ex]

I used the arrows on each diagram to show the outside of the wheel.

 

[ptsg]

Yes, but you mentioned you are going to move the wheels to the F position, which according with the dimensions table, it's the narrower position. I think you want the C position.

 

[Texasmark]

View attachment 586200 OK. This is from my Kubota M6040 OP Manual. The first bigger sketch shows one position with the hub dished inwards. If your welded attachment tabs, on the outer rim, are offset, there will be three more positions, with the hub dished inwards.

The next four sketches show the four positions with the hub dished outwards.

Each of the eight positions is only an overall change - in total width - of a few inches. However, the idea being - ideal width when doing row crop farming.

The reason Kubota does not recommend the added three positions when the hub is dished in - possibility of the outer tire making contact with components of the tractor.

So, if the attachment tabs on your rims are offset - you too will have eight width positions. No matter what you do - - be certain that there will be adequate clearance if you do make width adjustment.

Ford manuals have similar charts. Amazing how many combos you can come up with on old Fords.

You have one more option and that is to fabricate a spacer that mounts between the wheel hub and the wheel. I am having trouble posting pictures all of a sudden and will send this answer and come back and see if I can add a picture.

Point here is that I wanted to widen the rears on my 2400. I bought a piece of ｼ" (thickness determined by size/weight of tractor) cold rolled steel plate and a piece of Schedule 40 8" (diameter selected to conveniently encircle my bolt pattern on this tractor) steel pipe. I cut the pipe to 4" determined by my desired widening dimensions.

I made a pattern of the interface....just took a wheel off the tractor and use it as a template and took that and the steel to a local machine shop. They did a super neat job of making the flanges. Came home and welded it up and done deal. Total cost right at a hundred bucks.....half as much as what I could have bought online at half the width.

Let's see if I can add the pics.

 

[oosik]

The really kinky thing - you can set one rear wheel one way and the other a completely differing way. You could spend days playing with wheel offsets and NEVER get your fields tilled.

What stops all this fall-de-rah. My rears are loaded with Rim Guard and weigh a tad over 1000 pounds per tire. I had the dealer set the rims - they will remain there forever.

 

[Reg]

Here's a thought;
If you trailer your tractor anywhere (and many of us DO) just be very sure that it will still fit on your trailer after whatever widening you do.
I think my 42 HP with R4s is just about 80 inches outside tire wall to outside tire wall, the trailer is 83 inches wheel well to wheel well and I think there is one more option to set the wheels another couple of inches (each) out, so I am at my max trailerable width.

 

[Reg]

The really kinky thing - you can set one rear wheel one way and the other a completely differing way. You could spend days playing with wheel offsets and NEVER get your fields tilled.

What stops all this fall-de-rah. My rears are loaded with Rim Guard and weigh a tad over 1000 pounds per tire. I had the dealer set the rims - they will remain there forever.

Mine are similar in weight, i.e. just over 50 gallons of rimguard in each, which I loaded myself.
I have an engine crane that I use to help me with the changeover to turfs, but changing ~1,000 lb wheel assemblies is not without risk of personal injury.
I have it in my mind that if ever one starts to get way from me I will "let it go", put the turf back on and recover the 1/2 ton wheel later with the FEL and a chain, then start over.
I try to time the seasonal changeover for when I have the backhoe on, which helps a LOT.

 

[newbury]

You could check with the dealer that the setup you plan to use is approved. It should be in the manual.

You'll need a way to move the rim and tire around without it falling down (it'll be really heavy) and a way to line it up to get the bolts in. Some people here have used a greased sheet of plywood. If I was doing it I'd chain it to the ROPS or something else so it wouldn't fall over.

The first time I moved one of my loaded rears on my M4700 (~700lbs) we did it on the lawn and I had 2 25yr old strapping young men and we changed the mounting from wide to narrow. To change the other rim (a few months later) I and my 30yr old son did it on concrete. Both times we used a 47" HF Farm Jack (be careful of the handle) for dismount and mount and a pallet jack to set it on. During the swaps we ended up with the tires oriented "backwards" which is good for backing up.

Here's a thought;
If you trailer your tractor anywhere (and many of us DO) just be very sure that it will still fit on your trailer after whatever widening you do.
I think my 42 HP with R4s is just about 80 inches outside tire wall to outside tire wall, the trailer is 83 inches wheel well to wheel well and I think there is one more option to set the wheels another couple of inches (each) out, so I am at my max trailerable width.

My equipment trailer bought with my B7610:

has the fenders 78" ww to ww.
My M4700, as purchased was 81" wide, so after swapping around it barely squeezed through the fenders

but it fit and balanced.

This is from the 15 series. It's odd that they didn't put that info on the 20 series for some reason.

View attachment 586202

The dimensions won't be the same as this is a smaller size tractor.

Yes, but you mentioned you are going to move the wheels to the F position, which according with the dimensions table, it's the narrower position. I think you want the C position.

Yup.

 

[Texasmark]

Must have gotten spoofed. Trying again:

 

[Reg]

I think the maximum number of potential settings reduces to 8, i.e. center flipped in/out (2), center inboard or outboard of rim lugs(2), rims flipped either side to side or reversed(2) - - as we already know 2x2x2=8

Yes, rims swapped left/right or flipped to reverse amounts to the same width - with direction of rotation reversed in both cases.