Welding Draft Arm

[dragoneggs]

It doesn't hurt to try welding it since as you said, you can always buy another one if you aren't successful.

When you do grind your 'V's in preparation for welding... weld the same day if you can, to keep the oxidation from setting in. I don't think most people appreciate how fast metal forms an oxide layer.

 

[Leejohn]

I would make a new one, might be easer.

 

[otlski]

I would overlap and weld reinforcing plates to bridge over the newly welded and ground repair area. It gets you greater cross sectional area in case your intended repair welds are not perfect.

 

[Jeepnford]

I知 guessing (and agreeing with you) it痴 weldable steel since it has other welds on it. They also sell just the ends that are made to weld on to your own link.

I had to weld a new top link bushing on my 3 pt. auger I bought for cheap. It came already V shaped so I ground a V on the top link bar and MIG welded it.

 

[Big Barn]

If you’re depending on it for a job or can’t afford downtime from another break, I would buy a new one. Then weld up the broken one with advice from the knowledgeable members here and keep it for a spare.

Either way you will have fun fixing it and probably gain experience and confidence. Win/win.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I would make a new one, might be easer.

I've often thought about making new ones. If I do they will be straight without the bend in them.

 

[RNeumann]

I've often thought about making new ones. If I do they will be straight without the bend in them.

Double HH Weld-On Repair Ends - Top Link

Have at it! If you look closely at the OP’s photos it looks like his might have weld on ends similar to the ones linked above. Several folks sell them. My local tractor supply store has several on the shelf.

 

[JERZEEFATBOY]

I would buy a new arm.
Several years ago I was working with a Danuser post driver. The previous owner of the tractor (who was a competent welder) had welded on new repair ends on the lift arms. While I was bending over to load a new post, a weld gave out and the post driver dropped, swung round and missed me by 1/2 an inch. The previous owner was an ace welder, but we all make mistakes and maybe the driver was just to top heavy . . . so, no welding on critical parts for me. (yes, I know, they can fail right from the factory . . . but I will take that chance more comfortably)

 

[Ritothebull]

I would just bevel it out and weld it with some 70xx grade wire as I have in the past, I don't know what grade of steel they're using on these but they are harder than mild steel and some are forged but they do weld nicely.

And I probably wouldn't reinforce it because you want the arm to fail rather than break the connection on the transmission housing in the event that there is another incident.

 

[Deere Dude]

I've welded both arms on my 4410. They both broke through the lift hole. Welded with 7018 AC. No preheat. They haven't given trouble since.

I'm not a professional welder.... But I've done a lot of welding.

It doesn't hurt to try welding it since as you said, you can always buy another one if you aren't successful.

When you do grind your 'V's in preparation for welding... weld the same day if you can, to keep the oxidation from setting in. I don't think most people appreciate how fast metal forms an oxide layer.

I would overlap and weld reinforcing plates to bridge over the newly welded and ground repair area. It gets you greater cross sectional area in case your intended repair welds are not perfect.

I would just bevel it out and weld it with some 70xx grade wire as I have in the past, I don't know what grade of steel they're using on these but they are harder than mild steel and some are forged but they do weld nicely.

And I probably wouldn't reinforce it because you want the arm to fail rather than break the connection on the transmission housing in the event that there is another incident.

Lots of good ideas guys. I am going in to town and will try to find some 7018 rods, grind the angle and try to weld it the same day. This is not where downtime is of the essence. I like the idea of putting a reinforcement chunk on it though. I would hate to have the arm break and no catch it right away and have my 900# deck or box dragging behind be and break the other side. I just need to be more careful and stay more aware.. I probably won't get to it for a few more days and maybe someone someone else might come up with a better idea. Either way, I am just glad the casting on the tractor didn't break.