Compact Tractors are Designed All Wrong

[MultiMow]

I meant a deeper scarifying than that. There may be better soil not too far underneath.

Doubtful. We already have grass established, and it's slowly filling in. I think it just needs a few years of saying thatch and nitrogen. Once the grass gets thick enough to hold moisture, I'll lift the thatch and overseed with micro clover... should help a lot.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Doubtful. We already have grass established, and it's slowly filling in. I think it just needs a few years of saying thatch and nitrogen. Once the grass gets thick enough to hold moisture, I'll lift the thatch and overseed with micro clover... should help a lot.

Yah, I wouldn't scarify if you already have grass growing. I was talking about any bare or uncultivated areas. Just throw down organic fertilizer of some kind a couple of times; that will really help the grass fill in. Bare areas can be a problem on sloped areas. But you're already on your way to much better soil.

Do you really get "thatch"?

 

[MossRoad]

So I'm reading this thread:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/403982-can-i.html#post5238845

I didn't want to comment in that thread, because the poster is looking for solutions and options using his equipment, and it's not the kind of thread asking what's the better tool. But it got me to thinking about this thread again, where we're comparing all sorts of different machines to a traditional tractor.

In that thread, the poster wants to clear a path to a spot on the property about 25-30' away. The path is full of scrub the thickness of his little finger and 3-4 feet tall. He's wondering if he could back his 3pt brush cutter in there with his tractor, which is this make and model.
TractorData.com Mahindra 1526 tractor information

People are concerned that he may pop a tire, or bend the sheet metal on the rear of the cutter on a hidden stump or rock, or poke things in his undercarriage, etc... They're suggesting he back in with his cutter raised as high as it will go and lower it down, raise, advance, lower, repeat.

This is one of those situations where a machine like the Power Trac VS a conventional tractor is a good head-to-head comparison.

I'd have no concerns about doing a heavily grown over path of 3'-4' high finger-sized saplings 25-30' long in one pass with my little machine in probably one or two minutes.

- The bottom of the PT is flat steel plate. Nothing sticks out. Nothing to poke or damage. The entire unit is basically a skid plate on wheels.

- With the brush cutter out front, you can see what's coming. The front of the deck is open. There's no sheet metal to be bent or pushed into the blades. If you push up against a stump, you'll see it and stop. Everything that the brush cutter can push over will be destroyed, chewed up and spit out before you drive over it.

- Finger sized saplings are of no concern. The little PT4255 will easily handle pushing over and destroying anything 1.5" in diameter or less. With care, I've pushed over 2" oaks and chewed them up.

- If needed, for, say, shrubs and bushes, I can lift the brush cutter 5' in the air to an almost vertical position and bring it down slowly, grinding the plant to shreds.

Having had a large 50hp tractor with a brush hog on the back for 10 years, and switching to this style machine for the last 17 years, I can say from experience, the brush cutter out front is way better for me. I'd venture to say it's probably better for most other folks, too.

 

[MultiMow]

Yah, I wouldn't scarify if you already have grass growing. I was talking about any bare or uncultivated areas. Just throw down organic fertilizer of some kind a couple of times; that will really help the grass fill in. Bare areas can be a problem on sloped areas. But you're already on your way to much better soil.

Do you really get "thatch"?

Sadly, I do. Things are so busy with a business, 4 kids, plus one on the way... I rarely get time to mow on schedule. It's not so bad when I mow with the Toro. The flail deck leaves the clippings small and lofted. My zero turn, on the other hand, is a different story.

Sadly enough, I had to quit mowing with my Toro, 'cause 5.5 acres of steep sloped lawn is just too much for the transmission.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Sadly, I do. Things are so busy with a business, 4 kids, plus one on the way... I rarely get time to mow on schedule. It's not so bad when I mow with the Toro. The flail deck leaves the clippings small and lofted. My zero turn, on the other hand, is a different story.

Sadly enough, I had to quit mowing with my Toro, 'cause 5.5 acres of steep sloped lawn is just too much for the transmission.

That wouldn't technically be "thatch" but def a problem, as excessive grass clippings kill or stunt your grass, allowing you-know-what to take over. So you're creating more work for yourself. Regular mowing is important if you care about your lawn. Maybe you don't and that's fine too!

You sound like a busy man. Truly the easiest way to improve your lawn is 1) scatter on any kind of organic fertilizer 1-2 times a year, and 2) mow regularly, fairly high.

As for the fertilizer, I only had to fertilize the first year and now the soil is good and getting better every year. As for mowing, might be worth your time to hire someone to do it during your busy times. Around here, a mowing company will mow my 3-4-ish acres of open land for around a hundred bucks. I'm busy too, so I prioritize it. The area immediately around the house I can mow in 15-20 minutes or so. That gets done no matter what, and I've done it in the dark at times. The rest gets mowed when I get to it.

Imma post before and after pics of my lawn, showing how awful it was and how gorgeous it is now, with just the two simple techniques above because no one believes it, until they try it.

 

[airbiscuit]

So I'm reading this thread:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/403982-can-i.html#post5238845

I didn't want to comment in that thread, because the poster is looking for solutions and options using his equipment, and it's not the kind of thread asking what's the better tool. But it got me to thinking about this thread again, where we're comparing all sorts of different machines to a traditional tractor.

In that thread, the poster wants to clear a path to a spot on the property about 25-30' away. The path is full of scrub the thickness of his little finger and 3-4 feet tall. He's wondering if he could back his 3pt brush cutter in there with his tractor, which is this make and model.
TractorData.com Mahindra 1526 tractor information

People are concerned that he may pop a tire, or bend the sheet metal on the rear of the cutter on a hidden stump or rock, or poke things in his undercarriage, etc... They're suggesting he back in with his cutter raised as high as it will go and lower it down, raise, advance, lower, repeat.

This is one of those situations where a machine like the Power Trac VS a conventional tractor is a good head-to-head comparison.

I'd have no concerns about doing a heavily grown over path of 3'-4' high finger-sized saplings 25-30' long in one pass with my little machine in probably one or two minutes.

- The bottom of the PT is flat steel plate. Nothing sticks out. Nothing to poke or damage. The entire unit is basically a skid plate on wheels.

- With the brush cutter out front, you can see what's coming. The front of the deck is open. There's no sheet metal to be bent or pushed into the blades. If you push up against a stump, you'll see it and stop. Everything that the brush cutter can push over will be destroyed, chewed up and spit out before you drive over it.

- Finger sized saplings are of no concern. The little PT4255 will easily handle pushing over and destroying anything 1.5" in diameter or less. With care, I've pushed over 2" oaks and chewed them up.

- If needed, for, say, shrubs and bushes, I can lift the brush cutter 5' in the air to an almost vertical position and bring it down slowly, grinding the plant to shreds.

Having had a large 50hp tractor with a brush hog on the back for 10 years, and switching to this style machine for the last 17 years, I can say from experience, the brush cutter out front is way better for me. I'd venture to say it's probably better for most other folks, too.

Sooooooo, I cut 8' tall brush up to 1" diameter

With this 15hp grey market CUT

I think it is as cute as those Powertracs

 

[Industrial Toys]

Turn the seat around, rig up linkages for the pedals and steering, and you'll really have something.

 

[Xfaxman]

Yep, another vote for an out front brush hog. This one is 7':

 

[MossRoad]

Turn the seat around, rig up linkages for the pedals and steering, and you'll really have something.

Like this? You sit on the hood to operate it with the steering wheel between your knees.

 

[Xfaxman]

Like this? You sit on the hood to operate it with the steering wheel between your knees

Now that brings back memories from 1986 of the Wheelhorse C195 with a dirt scoop on three point. Had to ride backwards sitting on the hood to keep the front wheels on the ground.

Pictures from an image search. It had a 19.9 horsepower Kohler two cylinder, lever operated hydrostatic transmission and 16 inch rear wheels: