NX4510HST FEL6010 Joystick cable

[JimR]

For sure, Kioti needs to redesign here. I suspect that they failed to calculate reduction in strength of the threads on the rod; and perhaps they're also over-tightening the nut (harder metal?) and that's adding to a loss of strength in the rod. As I noted, the bends seem pretty sharp (two bends in less(?) than about 1 1/2').

Kioti didn't have to shell out for labor costs on mine as I did the work (even though covered under warranty). If not for the hassle of having to drag the tractor to the dealers (or pay to have it done) I'd have done it as this would have made Kioti pay more and thus, I'd figure, give more incentive to change the design.

My thoughts exactly. I would have to borrow a trailer and make two trips to the dealer 40 miles away. I'll eat the cost of the cables but make sure that they are made aware of the problem. Over-tightening a jam nut does not weaken the rod below the contact point where these cables are breaking. It would weaken it above the nut where it contacts the swivel end.

 

[Threepoint]

Thanks, Guys. Very helpful information, and thank you, DieselBound, for the pic.

Wondering if the CK series use the same design. I'm thinking of adding a CK3510HST SE.

 

[JimR]

I picked up a new pair of cables for my tractor today. The parts guy told me that this has been a big issue with these tractors and that they go through a lot of cables. He said that moisture collects on the inside of the cable which causes rusting which leads to early failure. I strongly suggest that everyone that reads this posting oils up their cables with a gear lube type oil to prevent premature failure. I suggest using gear lube as it will stay in the cable longer than motor oil. One solution for this problem may be to install tight rubber boots over the cable ends to prevent moisture from forming inside the cables. I'll look to see if there are any rubber nipples available out there on the internet next weekend.

 

[DieselBound]

I'm not sold on it being due to rust. I've got a cab. My cable showed no signs of rusting whatsoever.

If I had a flat tire on my tractor my dealer would look at me, scratch their heads, and say that they've never seen that happen before!:laughing:

 

[countrybumpkin]

Appears more as a misalignment issue, allowing to much side stress on the shaft. Seen it happen many times on push pull cables.

 

[DieselBound]

country, agree!

The bends in the cable, over such a short distance, would seem to add to the overall excess stress.

 

[JimR]

country, agree!

The bends in the cable, over such a short distance, would seem to add to the overall excess stress.

That was my thought also as there is a nasty bend at the joystick. Better vertical alignment with the valve and joystick would cure this problem.

 

[bherr]

I have a 2012 CK20S HST with 232+ hours, very few hours per year, around 35 to 40. So I was using the loader to clean up the road shoulder that washed on our land (county refuses to maintain a ditch that crosses our land; different story) when I lost up and down function of the loader. Bucket would go down but not up. No "springy" feel in the stick. After talking with the dealer and lots of time digging on the internet (Thank you TBN for being here) it seems reasonable that I've got a broken cable.

Dealer is 40 miles away and will do the repair - in his shop, can't fault him for that - but I have no way to transport the tractor. After doing some more digging I think I can do the repair but I have some questions:

1. Can this be done off the tractor? It seems it would be simpler to remove the cables from the valve body then lift the joystick assembly out, replace the cables then drop it back in and re-connect the cables to the valve body.
   
2. What about adjusting the cables? I'm assuming that's done at the joystick block. Is it simply adjusting them so the sliding lock engages and prevents motion?

Seems to me that a failure like this with so few hours on the tractor is unreasonable. I'm out of warranty and will have to eat this but it just seems wrong that it happened so soon.

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

 

[JimR]

I have a 2012 CK20S HST with 232+ hours, very few hours per year, around 35 to 40. So I was using the loader to clean up the road shoulder that washed on our land (county refuses to maintain a ditch that crosses our land; different story) when I lost up and down function of the loader. Bucket would go down but not up. No "springy" feel in the stick. After talking with the dealer and lots of time digging on the internet (Thank you TBN for being here) it seems reasonable that I've got a broken cable.

Dealer is 40 miles away and will do the repair - in his shop, can't fault him for that - but I have no way to transport the tractor. After doing some more digging I think I can do the repair but I have some questions:

1. Can this be done off the tractor? It seems it would be simpler to remove the cables from the valve body then lift the joystick assembly out, replace the cables then drop it back in and re-connect the cables to the valve body.
   
2. What about adjusting the cables? I'm assuming that's done at the joystick block. Is it simply adjusting them so the sliding lock engages and prevents motion?

Seems to me that a failure like this with so few hours on the tractor is unreasonable. I'm out of warranty and will have to eat this but it just seems wrong that it happened so soon.

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

If your setup is the same as the NX machines it is fairly easy to do. This is a non cab machine. Before doing anything check to make sure that the screw up in the underside of your joystick didn't fall out. Mine did this with well under 100 hours on it. My bucket only worked in one direction. I found the screw lying on my floorboards. That screw holds down the front left pivot point on your joystick when looking at from the front of the tractor. If that is there then remove the joystick cover. Remove the screw that I just mentioned. Loosen the cable lock nuts and unscrew the cables by turning the pivot ball ends. Go down under the floorboards and use a swivel ended Allen wrench to remove the cover of the broken control cable. I had to use the long end with a small pipe on the short end to break the screws loose. Pull up the cover and push the pin out of the cable end to unhook it. I believe that there is two outer cable nuts down under that you need to disconnect. I can't go out and look because I am not home. Install is basically the reverse. Make sure you screw the new cable in the same amount in the lower connector as it was before you removed it and the same goes for the upper end. You can adjust the joystick by adjusting the outer cable to get the joystick level. Hopefully I covered all the bases. I welded one of mine recently. I now have a spare set of cables just in case. Use gear oil to lube your cables. Mine were dry.

 

[DieselBound]

bherr, if the joystick block is the same as on the NXs then it should be fairly easy. There's a dummy pin in the block that takes a hex/allen(?) driver to remove; once that's out you can then pop off the joystick lever and pull out the bad cable (and insert the new one). Trickiest part is getting the valve end disconnected as there are towers/covers over where the cable attaches and it's held down (on the NXs) with some small alllen bolts that don't give a lot of room for access (just take patience). Adjustment is just a matter of adjusting the cable at the joystick block until you removed slack and the joystick's travel/throw is what you know it should be*.

* I Just had to readjust my cable because the joystick traveled way to the right and against the cab door handle. I had installed the new cable based on exposed threads and thought that that ought to be good- it wasn't.

Cheap metal on the cable ends. Best to go easy on popping into/out of float.