Using a synthetic engine oil?

[Oldoak]

Good Grief . Yet another question about 努hat is the best oil?

Well when you look at the length of the oil shelves at wallyworld, obviously there are some questions. Nice the "snake oil" section is significantly smaller.....grin.....sorry BD, just couldn't help it.

I believe the "best oil" is what the Owners Manual recommends.

I would be willing to bet any oil on the shelves today is much better than what any of our fathers used years ago. What I think is "snake oil" is most of the oil additives sitting on the store shelves. I could remember when STP was all the rage. Just had to add some along with the engine oil.

 

[sdquick]

My understanding (for what it is worth) of synthetic oil is that it is synthesized (made) with smaller molecules so it works better by getting into smaller spaces than regular (larger) oil, and having more molecules in the smaller spaces to reduce the friction. This is also why it can be a problem to switch to synthetic on an older vehicle / tractor. The spots that were sealed to the larder natural oil now allow leaks of the smaller synthetic oil. This results is leaks that you never had and burning more oil.

 

[RalphVa]

Molecule size of synthetic oils is the same as conventional. Just because your engine is old does not mean you need to use old oil. Many of the oils we have now are much better than those when old engines were made. I've switched an old Gravely and a 1983 240D Benz engine all to synthetic (M1) with no problems. The Gravely was actually using oil and finally stopped after the change to the 3rd batch of M1. The Benz engine was designed to use oil (about a quart every 2k miles). It continued to do this on M1.

You also do not need 40w oil for diesels. VW specifies 5w30 for its TDI engines and have never had a lube oil related engine failure. After running a TDI for nearly 70k miles using 10k changes, I've switched all my diesels to 0w30 (if I can get it) or 5w30.

All my gasoline engines run on 0w20 M1.

Why is anyone using 15w40 when 5w40, even 0w40, oil is available? Your valve train will get lubrication instantly at the lowest temperature if you use 0wxx oil. Just wish I could get it locally in diesel oil in 0w30. I once had a VW Cabrio that had a horrid hydraulic valve lifter knock (because the oil drained out) when started unless I put 0wxx oil in it.

Ralph

 

[shooterdon]

I believe the "best oil" is what the Owners Manual recommends.

I would be willing to bet any oil on the shelves today is much better than what any of our fathers used years ago. What I think is "snake oil" is most of the oil additives sitting on the store shelves. I could remember when STP was all the rage. Just had to add some along with the engine oil.

My JD was made in 1988. It is possible that now, 30 years later, things have changed....thus my question. It looks like T-6 in 0W-40 is a good choice. Thanks to those who replied and provided input.

 

[Oldoak]

My JD was made in 1988. It is possible that now, 30 years later, things have changed....thus my question. It looks like T-6 in 0W-40 is a good choice. Thanks to those who replied and provided input.

Precisely why I stated that any oil on the shelf today is much better than the oils sold years ago.

To me T-6, particularly in older machines, is a waste of money. I'm sure even your tractor didn't call for synthetic oil when it was new. My 21 year old tractor which I just traded in certainly didn't.
"To each, their own", what ever makes everyone feel good about what oil they use. :dance1:

 

[Cat_Driver]

I bought a new truck and it came with free oil changes. I knew I would never use their cheap drum oil in my vehicle I never took advantage of their "FREE" oil changes. I've bene using Amsoil in everything since the 70's and do swear my it. Anyway, one day I took the truck in for service and without asking me they changed MY OIL and put in their cheap whatever oil. I voiced my unhappiness but figures oh well I'll just run it till my next change what could it hurt. Boy was wrong. The truck ran like doggie doo doo. The engine was louder, ran rougher, I could feel more vibration in the steering wheel etc. I thought could it really be the oil? After 1,000 miles I dumped out the cheap drum oil and replaced it with what I致e been using and the truck instantly went back to normal, quiet and smooth with no vibration.

I noticed the same difference in my 60Kw generator when I changed it with five gallons of oil. My equipment runs in 120 degree temps all day long, last week it was 119 around here and my equipment runs cool in that enviroment.

Last story. In my Sprinter there are very few oild that are "approved" by Mercedes to use in their diesel engine. Mobil one is their designer oil of choice. I had the excact same situation as my truck, dealer changed it on my request as I was on the road and used mobil one. It ran lously compared to what I was used to using the Amsoil. Same thing, got home and dumped the Mobil one.

No I'm not an Amsoil dealer, just know what works for me with 50 year of changing oil in everyting from a water pump to large trucks.

Here's what I do when I take any vehicle in for service. I bring in my own filters and oil and have them change the fluids so I have it on record that they were the ONLY ones that touched my equipment. I've never been turned away. I do it with Ford, Mercedes, Kubota, Hino, GMC, Chrysler even quick lube places etc. They also change very little for the oil change when I bring in the fluids. The Ford dealer charged me $19.00 to change the fluids on my F450 diesel. They take their oil change "special" price of $39.99 take of their cost of the oil and filter and charge me the remainder in labor. For $19.00 and sitting in their lobby reading the paper and eating their cookies and coffee in a cool waiting room it's well worth it.

 

[pmsmechanic]

John Deere also sells a good synthetic oil. They also say that if you use their oil and their filter you can go 50% longer between oil changes. So that's what I do. I use 0W-40 year round in everything except my quad (Yamaha 700) and my wife's 2014 TDI Jetta. It doesn't leak out of my 1947 KB-1. It has increased the mileage on my 2 cummins engines. And it works very well on my 2001 TDI Jetta.

It has not increased oil leakage on anything and I find the oil stays an amber color a lot longer than with dino oil.

Synthetic oil doesn't necessarily have smaller molecules than dino oil. All the molecules are refined so that they are the same size. Therefore each molecule carrying an equal load and thus reducing friction.