Backhoe Dolly for LS XG3025 LB1106 Backhoe

[fgsiii]

I have searched the forum several times hoping to find information on building a dolly for the LS 1106 backhoe, all without success. There are many posts about backhoe dollies but all for different manufactures. The long subframe makes the LS backhoe substantially different from the other manufactures that I've been able to find. Has anyone built a dolly for the LB1106 or one of the larger LS hoes? I'm guessing the weight of the LB1106 is in the 900 to 1000 pound range, has anyone determined the exact weight to include the subframe? Any and all info will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[mslisaj]

Could you post a picture of the backhoe off the machine? I drove by my dealer a few days ago and they had the XG3025 with a back hoe and I did note the long subframe. Does all that come off with the hoe?
I'm just curious as I have a MT125 which has a much smaller hoe and more coventional but it would be interesting to see what that truly looks like off the machine.

 

[fgsiii]

Yes it all comes off with the hoe. Unfortunately I currently have plans to use the backhoe on several projects before I attempt to take it off, maybe someone else can provide the photo you are interested in. I did see a photo of one somewhere on the net but don't recall where.

 

[3Ts]

I have a JD 485 Backhoe (currently mounted on a JD 5055E) that I've been thinking about a dolly for some time. The backhoe weighs somewhere between 1460# and 1800#. The 1800# is the shipping weight the dealer gave me. The subframe is looonnnngg. From the pivot point of the boom to the front of the subframe is 6.5' and from the pivot point to the bucket is another 4'. I've put off building a dolly because finding the casters that would support the weight wasn't happening - until another thread on this forum let me know that Surplus Center has some really nice swivel casters that will support 1,000# each. Four of those arrived yesterday.

Most of the weight is balanced near the pivot point so 2 casters will carry 90% of the weight and will only need other casters for balance. I'll have to see what I have in the way of metal before I actually come up with a design. My first thought is that i'll only need to span 3' for the heavy weight bearing supports, but it will have to be at 2 levels because of the way the subframe is designed. Once I get that figured out, the rest should be easy.

I also have a project that requires the backhoe, so it will be a while before I get a chance to work on this. I'll try to remember to take pictures, otherwise, the steel might only be imaginary :laughing:

 

[3Ts]

This is not my backhoe (this is a jd 595 - i think) but it gives you an idea as to what mine looks like off the tractor with the really long subframe.

 

[fgsiii]

Thanks for the info & photo 3Ts. That backhoe looks to be much larger than the one on my XG3025 but very similar in design, at least from the looks. I'm going to check out the casters at the Surplus Center. I think steel wheels would be the way to go, especially if the hoe sits on the dolly for long periods of time. It would be hard to move with flat spots on the wheels.

 

[mslisaj]

This is not my backhoe (this is a jd 595 - i think) but it gives you an idea as to what mine looks like off the tractor with the really long subframe.

View attachment 561055

Wow!! Thanks 3Ts for the picture. That's a lot of hoe/sub-frame that goes forward. I had no idea it all came off like that. Pretty amazing. I would love to see a video of how you get that on the ground.

Again thanks for the picture. Certainly answers my curiosity.

 

[3Ts]

I would love to see a video of how you get that on the ground.

:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing: So would I! There are "only" 2 pins that have to be removed to take it off or put it on. Piece of cake, how hard could it possibly be? I've got it down to 2 hours to take it off or put it on. The 2 pins are easy, it's the side to side alignment and parallelism that's the problem since the tractor has to be moved within 1/4" accuracy for it to go on. Thus the dolly for the fine adjustment.

That picture is for a larger backhoe than I have, I put that up to show how the subframe looks.

On edit: Once the pins are pulled and the blocking is in place the backhoe will demount itself using the stabilizers and boom/dipper stick. Coming off is a lot easier than going on, but it needs to come off in a particular configuration or it won't mount without a lot of :hissyfit:.

 

[3Lfarms]

Here is a pic of my 3102 backhoe for XU series machines.


Getting it off takes about 3 minutes. Getting it back on takes me about 15 minutes or so. Its all about getting the tractor lined up. With 2 people, its actually pretty quick. One drives the tractor, the other guides and works the backhoe controls to get the subframe the right height and level.

 

[fgsiii]

Here is a pic of my 3102 backhoe for XU series machines.
View attachment 561092

Getting it off takes about 3 minutes. Getting it back on takes me about 15 minutes or so. Its all about getting the tractor lined up. With 2 people, its actually pretty quick. One drives the tractor, the other guides and works the backhoe controls to get the subframe the right height and level.

3Lfarms thanks for the photo and the info. Do you think a dolly on a concrete pad or floor would make a "one person" installation easier? Initially I was thinking about storing the backhoe on a dolly in one of the bays in my shop. The dolly would allow me to move the hoe close to the wall so I would still have useable space in the center. However looking at the size of the subframe & hoe combined I might not have enough space to do that inside of one of the bays. My other option would be to pour a concrete pad under one of my shelters and store the hoe there, so the question, would a dolly be beneficial in that scenario for a one person operation?

 

[Trikejay]

So the larger tractors XG3025 and larger you have to take off the subframe also? The only video I could find was for the MT125. That one has a super simple removal process. LS MT125 Tractor Backhoe Removal (not GC171 or GC172) - YouTube

 

[3Ts]

I have to put the backhoe on and off by myself and I've done it on uneven ground. It's easier if the ground is level and smooth, even easier with a concrete pad. It'd be easier if two people worked it (part of the reason it takes me so long). But it is doable by one person even without a dolly. I've poured a pad for it and will end up with a dolly to make things easier and quicker.

 

[davrow]

My subframe comes off with the backhoe, also. But my dolly (made of scrap wood) does not extend to the end of the subframe, as compared to the hoe itself the subframe does not represent much of the total weight. So the dolly is not very long as compared to the entire hoe.

When putting the hoe back on, the dolly both helps and hinders. It does allow moving the hoe for alignment, but as you back the tractor up you can easily push the backhoe around (if you are on level concrete, eg, in my garage), screwing up all your careful alignment work. Note once you are ready for the install, the backhoe is raised on the stabilizers, so the dolly can no longer be used for 'fine tuning' at that point.

I'll get pics and dimensions if anyone wants them.

 

[fgsiii]

So the larger tractors XG3025 and larger you have to take off the subframe also? The only video I could find was for the MT125. That one has a super simple removal process. LS MT125 Tractor Backhoe Removal (not GC171 or GC172) - YouTube

That is correct, the hoe & subframe come off together. I've also looked at dollies for the MT125 and similar sized kubotas and John Deere's but haven't found any info on a dolly for the XG3025 and larger backhoes. Still looking!

 

[fgsiii]

My subframe comes off with the backhoe, also. But my dolly (made of scrap wood) does not extend to the end of the subframe, as compared to the hoe itself the subframe does not represent much of the total weight. So the dolly is not very long as compared to the entire hoe.

When putting the hoe back on, the dolly both helps and hinders. It does allow moving the hoe for alignment, but as you back the tractor up you can easily push the backhoe around (if you are on level concrete, eg, in my garage), screwing up all your careful alignment work. Note once you are ready for the install, the backhoe is raised on the stabilizers, so the dolly can no longer be used for 'fine tuning' at that point.

I'll get pics and dimensions if anyone wants them.

davrow pics and dimensions would be great when you have time. Thanks for the info.

 

[fgsiii]

I have to put the backhoe on and off by myself and I've done it on uneven ground. It's easier if the ground is level and smooth, even easier with a concrete pad. It'd be easier if two people worked it (part of the reason it takes me so long). But it is doable by one person even without a dolly. I've poured a pad for it and will end up with a dolly to make things easier and quicker.

Thanks for the information you've provided. You have answered my question completely, looks like I'll be pouring some concrete and looking to build a dolly.

 

[davrow]

1) Here is the backhoe on its dolly. Normally it lives on concrete in the garage, but at the moment it is in the yard. When in the garage I usually put a Harbor Freight dolly (the little size, 11?) under the front end of the subframe just to keep it off the ground.

Total length of the dolly is 62". Wheels/casters are 9". Width front and rear is 24 1/2".




2) The height of the wood under the bucket (9") was trial and error. The lengthwise boards are not really load bearing and are 2x6s for total width there of 11".




3) The arrows show that the width was not trial and error. It is fit to the contour of the underside of my backhoe thus will be different for most every backhoe.

The backhoe balances on the front of the dolly, so rear platform height controls subframe height. To some extent, anyway. Rear wheels swivel, front are fixed. None have brakes.




4) The height of the dolly at the front is arbitrary. For mine, that is 4" of wood over the 9" wheels.



No pics of the dolly without the backhoe on it, sorry. Anything need clarifying?

 

[fgsiii]

1) Here is the backhoe on its dolly. Normally it lives on concrete in the garage, but at the moment it is in the yard. When in the garage I usually put a Harbor Freight dolly (the little size, 11?) under the front end of the subframe just to keep it off the ground.

Total length of the dolly is 62". Wheels/casters are 9". Width front and rear is 24 1/2".

View attachment 561228


2) The height of the wood under the bucket (9") was trial and error. The lengthwise boards are not really load bearing and are 2x6s for total width there of 11".

View attachment 561229


3) The arrows show that the width was not trial and error. It is fit to the contour of the underside of my backhoe thus will be different for most every backhoe.

The backhoe balances on the front of the dolly, so rear platform height controls subframe height. To some extent, anyway. Rear wheels swivel, front are fixed. None have brakes.

View attachment 561230


4) The height of the dolly at the front is arbitrary. For mine, that is 4" of wood over the 9" wheels.

View attachment 561231

No pics of the dolly without the backhoe on it, sorry. Anything need clarifying?

davrow the pics & dimensions are just what I was hoping to see. I love working with wood and have plenty at my disposal. I also have 4 each 6" solid steel swivel casters that came with my 4 post lift that I no longer need for the lift because I've bolted it to the floor. I have always hoped that I could repurpose them and I believe this is the opportunity. Thanks again for taking the time to provide the photos and dimensions. I'll try to remember to post some photos of the dolly I will build but it may be a while, still have several projects for the hoe to be on the tractor.

 

[3Lfarms]

3Lfarms thanks for the photo and the info. Do you think a dolly on a concrete pad or floor would make a "one person" installation easier? Initially I was thinking about storing the backhoe on a dolly in one of the bays in my shop. The dolly would allow me to move the hoe close to the wall so I would still have useable space in the center. However looking at the size of the subframe & hoe combined I might not have enough space to do that inside of one of the bays. My other option would be to pour a concrete pad under one of my shelters and store the hoe there, so the question, would a dolly be beneficial in that scenario for a one person operation?

A dolly would help with alignment as previously stated and would allow you to move it out of the way when it’s off the tractor.
I have thought about making one, but frankly it takes up much less space in the barn if I just put it on the tractor and swing the hoe to the side. The hoe stays on 90 percent of the time. I usually let it sit outside when I need to do three point work.

Someone asked if the subframe comes off with the hoe. The answer is actually no. As you can see in the picture I posted earlier, the ladder portion of the frame is part of the hoe, but the actual sub-frame is part of the tractor and stays on. The ground clearance is permanently reduced. You can see some of it in that picture. The blue bits you see under the loader mount and the part that runs from there all the way to the swinging drawbar mount is all subframe. The standard draw bar mount was actually removed and the subframe incorporates its own fabricated draw bar mount. That subframe probably reduces ground clearance by 4” even when the hoe isn’t installed. My ground is totally flat with no rocks, so it’s no problem for me. I have a feeling that the subframe greatly strengthens the tractor since it ties the loader mounts into the rear axle housing.

 

[fgsiii]

A dolly would help with alignment as previously stated and would allow you to move it out of the way when it’s off the tractor.
I have thought about making one, but frankly it takes up much less space in the barn if I just put it on the tractor and swing the hoe to the side. The hoe stays on 90 percent of the time. I usually let it sit outside when I need to do three point work.

Someone asked if the subframe comes off with the hoe. The answer is actually no. As you can see in the picture I posted earlier, the ladder portion of the frame is part of the hoe, but the actual sub-frame is part of the tractor and stays on. The ground clearance is permanently reduced. You can see some of it in that picture. The blue bits you see under the loader mount and the part that runs from there all the way to the swinging drawbar mount is all subframe. The standard draw bar mount was actually removed and the subframe incorporates its own fabricated draw bar mount. That subframe probably reduces ground clearance by 4” even when the hoe isn’t installed. My ground is totally flat with no rocks, so it’s no problem for me. I have a feeling that the subframe greatly strengthens the tractor since it ties the loader mounts into the rear axle housing.

In a previous post I mistakenly stated that the subframe comes off with the backhoe but as 3Lfarms has correctly pointed out, only a portion (ladder portion) comes off with the hoe. The main part of the subframe stays on the tractor and connects at the front to the loader mounts and in the rear to the rear axle housing. The first attachment is a pic of the front mount. The second photo is an attempt to show which part is removed with the hoe and which part stays on the tractor. The last photo shows the rear mount and the two pins that hold the backhoe on the portion of the subframe that stays on the tractor. On my tractor (XG3025) it appears that the drawbar is not modified by the backhoe subframe. I also must agree with 3Lfarms that the addition of the backhoe subframe appears to add significant strength to the tractor. Hope I haven't muddied the water with the photos!