JD 7130 e-SCV failure. Need rebuild.

[RancherGuy]

Over the span of a month, all 3 of my e-SCVs (series 300) have failed. The tractor is 10 years old with 1300 hours. Periodically, once or twice a week, I started operating a small pull scraper. I did this for a couple of months. First month was perfect, then failures started happening in the second month. First, #2 was "drooling" between the SCV and ISO male coupling, dripping. Then #1 had a drain-down (hydraulic cylinder moves under pressure) that got worse and worse. I starting swapping hose positions. Now all 3 SCV have drain-down.

This morning the tractor was low on hydraulic oil, so I added 2 gallons. That lasted 4 hours before it needed more. I added 5 gallons. That lasted 30 minutes. When I look at the tractor rear, there are open hoses, maybe 3/16" in size, that have oil running out on the ground. They look like some type of bypass hose coming from the SCVs.

Help. What do I do? It is normal to have all of the seals fail so drastically and suddenly? I talked with the JD dealer and the young desk guy says there is no such thing as a "rebuild kit" for seals and such, but I can order anything I need individually (something in the neighborhood of $100 to cover each SCV). Is this what I need?

 

[Tx Jim]

Electronic controlled hyd functions are nice when new & operating correctly but can become a nightmare if they malfunction. I'm glad my tractors have manual controlled hyd valves. 300 series scv I located in 7130 PC were manual not electronic controlled. Is your tractor regular or premium model?

 

[DwayneB]

Check out onelonleyfarmer channel on YouTube. You may have to hunt thru the videos but he has several of him working on the electronic JD svcs. Everything from coils to rebuilds. Didn't seem overly complex to fix.

 

[Zebrafive]

Are the hoses from the quick couplers? The ones I've seen had two per coupler, one at the end/dust cap that collected the oil to catch bottle, and the other from the body of the coupler and those hoses connected back to the transmission fill.


For the "drain down" I think you need to check/replace the check valves (two per SCV) parts 7,8, 9, & 10

 

[Zebrafive]

JD does sell a repair kits for the 300 series SCV Four different ones, Plus you can buy individual parts

You can also buy individual parts for the Deluxe couplers

 

[MORRISONSTEEL]

The op's parts person may have been referring to not much you can do with the couplers themselves beyond replacing the oring/bu ring in the coupler. There has been a plethora of substitutions since these couplers came out. If oring or oring/bu combo has been replaced and you continue to get excessive oil out of drain tubes you are probably looking at replacing the couplers as a whole. That might seem counterproductive but is substantially less expensive than the rebuild cost of the older style couplers like on soundgard vintage tractors. You do not have to go back in with couplers that have the drain tubes. If you stick with couplers that have drain tubes you just have to be careful to get the proper set. There are versions that have drain spots in different locations, some can be installed in top or bottom some have to be replaced in the proper spot. An example of a couple that does not have drains is AL200979 and will screw right into your tractor but be aware without drains it will dribble out the coupler when you unplug, etc. Excessive draining from the leak off makes me believe you need to start with new couplers, as far as cylinder operation has internal leakage on the implement been eliminated as a problem.

 

[1010]

Are they only leaking when the hose is inserted? Or all the time?

If it's just when the hose is installed, look at the far right diagram Zebrafive posted, number 3 is what you need, it's a o-ring and a Teflon washer that fit in the back each coupler, you will need patience and a small (pick set helps) to replace them.
Don't worry about hurting them coming out, going back in with new ones is when you have to get them straight and not bend the Teflon washer.
It's really not hard, just tedious.

They come in a kit of ten or twenty I believe it is, so be prepared, you will need them all eventually anyway.
I go through them like candy it seems like, and yes they will allow a lot of fluid to pass when they are used/worn.

The Teflon washer goes in front of the o-ring as you can see in the diagram..

 

[jd110]

It does sound like you are having problems with the couplers and not the valves. As Morrisonsteel mentioned, there are several versions of couplers that can be used. Your tractor probably has the deluxe couplers with dust covers and 2 different drains per coupler. All of the coupler versions are made to be able to connect and disconnect under pressure and all of them are around 100 bucks a piece. The feature in them that allows them to connect under pressure is what makes them leak down under load when they go bad. There are some seal kits to repair them, but by the time you buy the kit and pay labor to install the kit, it is easier and just as cheap to install new couplers. If they only leak around the hose tips, those seals are inexpensive and east to replace.

 

[RancherGuy]

Is your tractor regular or premium model?

Yeah, electronic seems nice, but this is one situation where I think manual may be better, although I doubt that the difference has nothing to do with the failures.

 

[RancherGuy]

Check out onelonleyfarmer channel on YouTube...

Good suggestion - I happened to watch some of his a couple of weeks ago before mine totally failed. His are a bit different in design and I think I have an internal leak issue than he did not have.