QuantumRift
New member
OK, I seem to find some info that says the air gap on the PTO clutch should be .018"....is that good?
d
d
John Deere 345 pto clutch noise.
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Missouri Lad
Bronze Member
You need to get rid of that impact wrench. You are too dangerous with it. Under no circumstances, should you use aa impact wrench to install a PTO/to the crankshaft. You are lucky you didn't do more damage (you may have and don't know it) to the engine. You are only to tighten the bolt by a torque wrench. Go buy one and use it on all nuts and bolts on the tractor.
You need to go here...K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts & Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts
Click on the "red banner" where it says. Repair Manuals. Scroll down to Kawasaki-Service-Repair-Manuals, Open the file and scroll down to the fourth (4th) line to get the FD590V or FD611V Kawasaki engine on all items . That includes the torque settings.
You need to go here...K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts & Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts
Click on the "red banner" where it says. Repair Manuals. Scroll down to Kawasaki-Service-Repair-Manuals, Open the file and scroll down to the fourth (4th) line to get the FD590V or FD611V Kawasaki engine on all items . That includes the torque settings.
QuantumRift
New member
OH I got rid of it! I have torque wrenches.
.018" appears to be good. I got my clutch back on, and had to repair the wiring. I got the longer bolt in an torqued to 46 ft-lbs with a drop of loc-tite. I called the John Deere dealer down the road. I started it up and engaged the mower and could tell the difference in its function in closing the air gap. I think it had to be close to .040 when I started. The clutch grabbed up quick with no noise, and the belt stayed engaged well. I put rope in the cylinder to hold the engine from turning over, and got the right torque on it. It mowed great, and I can call it fixed.
Anyways, for what its worth. Thanks for the link!
.018" appears to be good. I got my clutch back on, and had to repair the wiring. I got the longer bolt in an torqued to 46 ft-lbs with a drop of loc-tite. I called the John Deere dealer down the road. I started it up and engaged the mower and could tell the difference in its function in closing the air gap. I think it had to be close to .040 when I started. The clutch grabbed up quick with no noise, and the belt stayed engaged well. I put rope in the cylinder to hold the engine from turning over, and got the right torque on it. It mowed great, and I can call it fixed.
Anyways, for what its worth. Thanks for the link!
QuantumRift
New member
OK guys, I bumped another post about PTO bolt breaking but I'll keep it here. The bolt I just replaced last week sheared off this morning. I hadn't even engaged the PTO when it it sheared and clutch dropped. Are the bearings that bad? Or should I just replace the entire **** thing as I just do not have the time to keep screwing around with it. If I replace it, should I replace the crankshaft pulleyt that sits above it?
Just need an answer....suggestions, etc...
thx
doug
Just need an answer....suggestions, etc...
thx
doug
You should be replacing the cupped washer as well. Using the bolt from JD or sure it's a hard bolt-M10X90 it shows. 125 pitch I'd think. If that didn't do it I would suspect the clutch. Does the shaft shake at all like it could be tweaked? One other thing. I've gotten clutches out of the Deere box that were updated and required a longer bolt. Though I assume it breaks just inside the crank.
Missouri Lad
Bronze Member
Something must be really wrong here. Does your crankcase belt pulley have a keyway with a key to keep it from turning? Never mind. I just went to one of my Kawasaki FD611V engine pictures and it shows there is a "keyway" in the crankshaft as the picture shows below.
There shouldn't be any type of pressure on the pulley force to shear the bolt. The bolt is to keep the PTO on the shaft and it too has no force other than that. So, why is the bolt shearing off at the crankcase shaft? Get another bolt and "don't" install the mower deck belt to the PTO and see what happens. The bolt just spins with the shaft and there's nothing hitting the bolt to force it to break.
There shouldn't be any type of pressure on the pulley force to shear the bolt. The bolt is to keep the PTO on the shaft and it too has no force other than that. So, why is the bolt shearing off at the crankcase shaft? Get another bolt and "don't" install the mower deck belt to the PTO and see what happens. The bolt just spins with the shaft and there's nothing hitting the bolt to force it to break.
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QuantumRift
New member
Yea, I always replace the washer. I get the right bolt every time. This past time I put a bolt that was about 1/4" longer in.
I have rebuilt the bearings in clutch, but no go. On the clutch plate, the alignment hole (where the pin off the bottom engine there goes to hold clutch from spinning) is really wogged out and when engaging it slams about 5/8 of an inch...so I was gonna weld a bit of steel there to reinforce the hole and reduce the 'jitter"...but instead, I ordered a new clutch from OX CLutch in Eugene Oregon.
I went to the local John Deere dealer/service center and asked them. One of the older guys there said that there's a good chance it's the crankshaft pulley for the drive belt that the clutch rides against. Once it gets worn (and it is visibly worn), it causes problems like I have been having.
So I have new bolts and and washers, new clutch coming AND will get a new pulley and key. Hope THAT fixes it.
I have rebuilt the bearings in clutch, but no go. On the clutch plate, the alignment hole (where the pin off the bottom engine there goes to hold clutch from spinning) is really wogged out and when engaging it slams about 5/8 of an inch...so I was gonna weld a bit of steel there to reinforce the hole and reduce the 'jitter"...but instead, I ordered a new clutch from OX CLutch in Eugene Oregon.
I went to the local John Deere dealer/service center and asked them. One of the older guys there said that there's a good chance it's the crankshaft pulley for the drive belt that the clutch rides against. Once it gets worn (and it is visibly worn), it causes problems like I have been having.
So I have new bolts and and washers, new clutch coming AND will get a new pulley and key. Hope THAT fixes it.
QuantumRift
New member
I think the problem has been identified (see response above). Even at the correct torque of 46 ft lbs, it sheared, but the JD Service shop tech said that the drive pulley can be the problem as well as the wogged out hole on the clutch plate for the retaining/alignment pin. Yea, I know that the bolt only keeps the pto clutch butted up against the pully. There is a keyway and a key as well, but I am getting a new key to use. The PTO clutch only fits up on there one way with the key, and the plate with the hole for the alignment/retaining pin is wogged out. So I'll keep at it..
doug
doug
Something must be really wrong here. Does your crankcase belt pulley have a keyway with a key to keep it from turning? Never mind. I just went to one of my Kawasaki FD611V engine pictures and it shows there is a "keyway" in the crankshaft as the picture shows below.
There shouldn't be any type of pressure on the pulley force to shear the bolt. The bolt is to keep the PTO on the shaft and it too has no force other than that. So, why is the bolt shearing off at the crankcase shaft? Get another bolt and "don't" install the mower deck belt to the PTO and see what happens. The bolt just spins with the shaft and there's nothing hitting the bolt to force it to break.
aa21830
New member
Reviving this thread just to say thanks for all who contributed. My X540 PTO bolt broke off and like others, the bottom two pieces of the clutch fell off. I just went through the repair and this thread helped greatly. A few things to add:
First, nothing just "falls off" on a 10-yr-old machine...the upper part of the clutch was firmly attached to the shaft. I was able to get a 2-jaw puller on it, and it came off.
After grinding off the rivets on the brake, I was able to use M5 bolts to re-attach. They are snug in the holes, but fit well. When popping out the rivets, VERY important to be gentle. The edge of one of the magnets cracked just a bit; nothing serious, but definitely don't want to pound on it - magnets are brittle.
I struggled to keep the engine from turning over when I torqued the PTO bolt. Finally discovered I could grab both sides of the drive belt, squeeze them together real tight and that was enough to keep the pulley from turning.
Thanks again.
First, nothing just "falls off" on a 10-yr-old machine...the upper part of the clutch was firmly attached to the shaft. I was able to get a 2-jaw puller on it, and it came off.
After grinding off the rivets on the brake, I was able to use M5 bolts to re-attach. They are snug in the holes, but fit well. When popping out the rivets, VERY important to be gentle. The edge of one of the magnets cracked just a bit; nothing serious, but definitely don't want to pound on it - magnets are brittle.
I struggled to keep the engine from turning over when I torqued the PTO bolt. Finally discovered I could grab both sides of the drive belt, squeeze them together real tight and that was enough to keep the pulley from turning.
Thanks again.
