3032e battery drain

[JDLJr]

What kind of draw are you getting from the battery with key in the off position?

12.27 volts between the Pos. battery post and the disconnected red battery cable.

 

[JDLJr]

I am too, but I guess in my first quick read I thought he was not only starting his tractor, but running it too; seems he may have been only starting/stopping it to check charge. It's not completely clear from his first post, at least not to me, whether he's actually putting time on clock or just start, test charge at alternator, then shut off, come back sometime later and battery is dead? No criticism intended- just trying to get on same page with the OP and start at actual output to battery from alternator, not AT it.

I was actually putting time on the clock. I loaded my garbage cans and hauled up my road to the street and then returned, about 10 minutes of operation time.

 

[JDLJr]

You need to make the juice run through the meter to see what the parasitic draw is.
Disconnect the + (pos) .and run the meter between the battery post and the cable.
With the key off.

Sorry I was not clearer in my response but that is what I did.
Thanks...
Jim

 

[JDLJr]

Also try putting a load on the battery, headlights, with tractor running, and see what the output is back to the battery? Put the meter on the battery posts, NOT the alternator. Make sure all battery and negative cable connection at frame/chassis are clean and tight. If easily and safely accessible, move the negative cable near the battery while taking battery voltage readings, and see if it fluctuates. Same on plus cable. Then rev it up a little and see what it outputs to the battery. Report back results....

As per your instructions, with the meter on the battery posts and the engine running, the meter read 14.4 volts. Sane situation with the tractor lights on the meter read 13.35 volts. No change as I moved the cables.

 

[JDLJr]

I really appreciate the help I am getting from everyone, however I may be getting a little lost in answering the threads in the correct order.
Please let me summarize what has happened and what I have done.
My 3032e has performed flawlessly since purchased new in 2013. I have about 266 hours on the machine. A few weeks ago I tried to start the tractor and the battery was dead. I recharged the battery, the tractor started, I did my chores with it running for about 10 minutes and then parked it. I came back the next day and the battery was again dead. I purchased a new battery, installed it and the tractor started, ran fine while I brought my garbage cans back, with the lights on while I was up on the street.
A few days later my battery was again dead. The key was out, the lights were off, all wiring looks to be correct and factory fresh, the battery cables and posts are clean and tight.
As suggested:
1. I hooked up my multimeter between the Pos. post on the battery and the disconnected red battery cable and recorded a 12.27 volt draw in the battery.
2. I checked alternator output at the alternator with the engine running, and got 14+ volts at idle.
3. With the tractor running and the meter in the battery posts, both at idle and at some throttle I got 14.4 volts output and then with a load (lights) I got 13.4 volts output.
4. I removed each fuse in the fusebox, still measured a drain at the battery,
If its not against the rules, I would be happy to post my phone to discuss this if any of you would like to call.

 

[Coyote machine]

Do NOT post your phone #. Members can instead PM you and if you chose to give them the numbere TBN does not want phone #'s posted in the forums, UNLESS you're and approved advertizer. Same with email, etc.

BTW, 14.4 is the near max, but acceptable voltage at the battery for alternator output. With a load like high beams, a 12.5+/- Volts should be adequate.
What's being suggested is some circuit on your tractor maybe draining the battery when it sits without the engine/alternator supplying 'recharge' voltage back to it.

Now I want you to disconnect the battery negative cable at the battery. Use a jumper cable for only the negative battery post and find a good ground, preferably bare metal, to connect to the frame of the tractor or similar solid metal. Leave the positive jumper cable out of the way of any moving parts and when everything is safely connected, start the tractor and read voltage at the battery. Then turn on high beams. Give us your readings.

 

[Coyote machine]

Do NOT post your phone #. Members can instead PM you and if you chose to give them the number. TBN does not want phone #'s posted in the forums, UNLESS you're an approved advertizer. Same with email, etc.

BTW, 14.4 is the near max, but acceptable voltage at the battery for alternator output. With a load like high beams, a 13.5+/- Volts should be adequate.
What's being suggested is some circuit on your tractor maybe draining the battery when it sits without the engine/alternator supplying 'recharge' voltage back to it.

Now I want you to disconnect the battery negative cable at the battery. Use a jumper cable for only the negative battery post and find a good ground, preferably bare metal, to connect to the frame of the tractor or similar solid metal. Leave the positive jumper cable out of the way of any moving parts and NOT attached to anything. When everything is safely connected, start the tractor and read voltage at the battery. Then turn on high beams. Give us your readings.
This test verifies the function of your battery ground cable, which often can corrode inside the plastic sheathing and wreak havoc. Do you store the tractor inside or outside? Are there any rodent issues in either case?

You should also verify there is NO corrosion at the negative cable's bolt to frame location , and you can cut a short section of the sheathing at the post clamp where the cable connects after, or before doing the above test. And make SURE there is bare clen shiny metal on the positive cable clamp where it attaches to the battery. In general always disconnect the neg before pos, to prevent sparks near the battery. Turn the cable clamp end over to inspect the entire connection surface. Give us results....

 

[Coyote machine]

If you're reading volts, you have the meter on the wrong scale. To measure current draw, you need the meter set to a current scale such as 10 amps.

You're right. So to not confuse the OP further; volts is a measure of potential energy stored in the battery. Amps is a reading of flow of energy, OUT from the battery, (and in this case by a leak drawing the potential energy from the battery until there is not enough left to start the tractor).

If after running the tests I outlined above you can go back and hook up the VOM, (volt/ohm/meter on the HIGHEST amps scale), and then retest between the NEGATIVE battery post and the NEGATIVE cable clamp, with the key OFF. If you get any amps reading note and report it back to us. As you test for amp draw, you may need to set the meter to a lower scale to get accurate results, but begin at highest and work down the scale to lower scales as needed.

Please note I made corrections to the details of this post, shown in red, thanks to Jax's pointing out my error(s) in the following post.

Thanks, Jax.:thumbsup:

 

[jaxs]

You're right. So to not confuse the OP further; volts is a measure of potential energy stored in the battery. Amps is a reading of flow of energy, OUT from the battery, (and in this case by a leak drawing the potential energy from the battery until there is not enough left to start the tractor).

If after running the tests I outlined above you can go back and hook up the VOM, (volt/ohm/meter on the lowest amps scale), and then retest between the positive battery post and the positive cable clamp, with the key OFF. If you get any amps reading note and report it back to us.

I try to refrain from counter posting unless it's to prevent harm,damage or injury. In this case it might be all three so here we go. Set amps to highest scale at first and if necessary reduce scale for precise reading. Test between negative battery post and the negative cable clamp to prevent short in case cable or meter probes come in contact with metal on tractor.

 

[Coyote machine]

I try to refrain from counter posting unless it's to prevent harm,damage or injury. In this case it might be all three so here we go. Set amps to highest scale at first and if necessary reduce scale for precise reading. Test between negative battery post and the negative cable clamp to prevent short in case cable or meter probes come in contact with metal on tractor.

I'm good with your 'counter-post', and agree completely. You are of course right about starting at the highest scale and working down to most precise reading available off the ground side rather than the positive/hot side, for the reasons you mentioned. Thanks for that.
I don't know why I missed the neg vs. the positive cable connection piece. All I can say is I was following what was already suggested, and don't do much in the way of testing for amp draw with my VOM.
Thanks for setting me straight on this.
I'm going to go back to my post and correct the errors in case someone only reads through to my post above...