D03 or D05 subplate and valve - Murphy proofing my 3rd function
- Thread starter powerscol
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powerscol
Veteran Member
So on your 2014 where did they move it too?
N2DFire
Platinum Member
One quick thing to point out about the rear 3pt connection - in my set-up I did NOT replace the M18 to NPT adapter there like I did on the side of the loader valve. I didn't have a need to since it was in & working.
Just wanted to make sure you knew & suggest you use the M18 to 1/2" JIC there. (I would also suggest NPT to JIC on the subplate as well) JIC gives you the ability to spin/swivel the hose during install and is much cheaper than an NPT swivel fitting.
Depending on where you end up mounting the valve you might also think about using 45 or 90 deg JIC fittings on the hoses to help with routing as they can make a sharper turn than you'll ever get out of the hose itself w/o kinking it.
As to the filter question, ours got mounted to a flat plate and pointed downward in roughly the same location (maybe even a bit lower) - from how I picture yours in my mind I like yours better as it looks like it would offer much more protection from limbs, rocks, etc underneath the tractor.
Good luck and keep plugging - you'll get it worked out. :thumbsup:
Just wanted to make sure you knew & suggest you use the M18 to 1/2" JIC there. (I would also suggest NPT to JIC on the subplate as well) JIC gives you the ability to spin/swivel the hose during install and is much cheaper than an NPT swivel fitting.
Depending on where you end up mounting the valve you might also think about using 45 or 90 deg JIC fittings on the hoses to help with routing as they can make a sharper turn than you'll ever get out of the hose itself w/o kinking it.
As to the filter question, ours got mounted to a flat plate and pointed downward in roughly the same location (maybe even a bit lower) - from how I picture yours in my mind I like yours better as it looks like it would offer much more protection from limbs, rocks, etc underneath the tractor.
Good luck and keep plugging - you'll get it worked out. :thumbsup:
OP
powerscol
Veteran Member
No wonder you guys had it easier not having that orange filter in the way. So I will document my install for those less fortunate once I pull everything together. Steve - thanks for the tip on the NPT/JIC fittings, Doing as you suggest should definitely help. I'm not in a rush so one step at a time. One thing I do need to do is think about the size and shape of the mounting plate that will give me the best room for locating the valve body..Do either of you happen to know the hole threading on top of the trans. I am talking about the 4 holes under the wiring harness in the second photo of my previous post. I'm guessing metric. Last do you know of an online source for flat aluminum stock to use as the mounting plate?
Thanks
Keith
Thanks
Keith
N2DFire
Platinum Member
Oops - my bad. I missed his was the hydro - I thought they did something funky with the main hydraulic filter.
Definitely metric but I don't remember what they were. I'm pretty sure the seat is still off of ours from the rear SCV install (unless Dad has found a free minute to put it back) so I will try to see this weekend if I can figure out what they are. The little voice in my head keeps saying M10X1.50 (Coarse thread) but I don't trust that guy, he's lied to me before. LOL
I've never used them but I remember someone here suggested Online Metal Store before.
OP
powerscol
Veteran Member
OK folks one last question here. Magnakoy offers their D03 sub plate in a lot of threading options. I would like to use 1/2 in ports or equivalent. ND2Fire used swivel 90 degree fittings for his AB port. To save money I wont to order a stock unit, other wais custome makes things expensive.
Thread Type:
P6 - 3/8" NPTF Pipe
P8 - 1/2" NPTF Pipe
S6 - #6 SAE ORing
S8 - #8 SAE ORing
B6 - 3/8" BSPP British Parallel (Add $34.00)
B8 - 1/2" BSPP British Parallel (Add $34.00)
T6 - 3/8" BSPT British Taper (Add $34.00)
T8 - 1/2" BSPT British Taper (Add $34.00)
M6 - M14 x 1.5 Metric ISO 6149 (Add $34.00)
M8 - M18 X 1.5 Metric ISO 6149 (Add $34.00)
Im thinking 1/2 nptf but finding a swivel from 1/2 to 3/8 jic not out there. they do have a 1/2 ntp to 1/2 jic female swivel. I would jut need to use a 1/2 to 3/8 jic transition for the A-B fittings to get to the 3/8 jic hose.Im just wondering how tough it is going to be with the 1/2 NPT to get the 90 to line up. I could go #8 SAE o-ring, but then need to worry about seals. Discount hydraulics has fittings for just about any way I want to go. Ill also ask my local hydraulic shop as I am looking at coming up and over the 4wd bracket with the hose, so possibly a hard line fitting and bend may work best to clear. Lastly it was recommended to go aluminum on the subplate - its rated at 3000PSI. Will there be a corrosion issue using steel fittings? They do have a steel subplate rated at 5000 psi that would solve this issue if there is one.
Thanks everyone
Thread Type:
P6 - 3/8" NPTF Pipe
P8 - 1/2" NPTF Pipe
S6 - #6 SAE ORing
S8 - #8 SAE ORing
B6 - 3/8" BSPP British Parallel (Add $34.00)
B8 - 1/2" BSPP British Parallel (Add $34.00)
T6 - 3/8" BSPT British Taper (Add $34.00)
T8 - 1/2" BSPT British Taper (Add $34.00)
M6 - M14 x 1.5 Metric ISO 6149 (Add $34.00)
M8 - M18 X 1.5 Metric ISO 6149 (Add $34.00)
Im thinking 1/2 nptf but finding a swivel from 1/2 to 3/8 jic not out there. they do have a 1/2 ntp to 1/2 jic female swivel. I would jut need to use a 1/2 to 3/8 jic transition for the A-B fittings to get to the 3/8 jic hose.Im just wondering how tough it is going to be with the 1/2 NPT to get the 90 to line up. I could go #8 SAE o-ring, but then need to worry about seals. Discount hydraulics has fittings for just about any way I want to go. Ill also ask my local hydraulic shop as I am looking at coming up and over the 4wd bracket with the hose, so possibly a hard line fitting and bend may work best to clear. Lastly it was recommended to go aluminum on the subplate - its rated at 3000PSI. Will there be a corrosion issue using steel fittings? They do have a steel subplate rated at 5000 psi that would solve this issue if there is one.
Thanks everyone
ericm979
Super Member
If you're concerned with flow why 3/8 hose? I thought that 1/2 was called for 10gpm and up. Wouldn't matter for the lines to the grapple but I'd think you'd want it for the P and T lines to maintain pressure and flow to the backhoe.
OP
powerscol
Veteran Member
Sorry for the confusion. The list I posted is all the sizes they can make the D03 sub plate in. Stock is all ports are the same size. It get expensive to have custom made. So I can get the D03 plate with A-B and P-T in 1/2" (P8) or (S8) etc. I need at least the 1/2" for the P-T side. I can use 3/8 hoses for the A-B to run the grapple as you mention. Right now I use the 3/8 from the rear remotes and I might be able to use the same hoses. So if I go all 1/2 NPTF I will need to adapt down to say 3/8 JIC for the A-B side
The intent of my question is which port threading gives me the best selection of fittings that are more leak proof at the block.
Hopefully this makes things clear.
The intent of my question is which port threading gives me the best selection of fittings that are more leak proof at the block.
Hopefully this makes things clear.
kennyd
Advertiser
ORB would be my first choice. NPT would be my absolute LAST choice. They should be outlawed for hydraulic uses
OP
powerscol
Veteran Member
As I am a bit backwards in my fitting knowledge :confused3::mur: you are saying I should go with the S8 - #8 SAE ORing ?
BukitCase
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2012
- Messages
- 2,756
- Location
- Albany OR
- Tractor
- Case 580B, Long 460, Allis-Chalmers 160
Yes, I certainly would - here are some of the options if you START with ORB (O-Ring Boss)
SAE Straight Thread O-Ring (ORB) Hydraulic Fittings
Notice that you have THREE different ORB-to-JIC elbow length options - The LL version will swivel OVER THE TOP of the short version if necessary, so you can "stack" a pair of hoses if that makes things easier; plus you can aim fittings ANY direction you need without worrying whether they're tight enough not to leak.
With NPT, you SHOULD replace fittings every time you take 'em apart and put 'em back together - this, because those threads are DESIGNED to deform when installed, it's what helps 'em seal.
All that's why I really WASN'T kidding earlier... Steve
SAE Straight Thread O-Ring (ORB) Hydraulic Fittings
Notice that you have THREE different ORB-to-JIC elbow length options - The LL version will swivel OVER THE TOP of the short version if necessary, so you can "stack" a pair of hoses if that makes things easier; plus you can aim fittings ANY direction you need without worrying whether they're tight enough not to leak.
With NPT, you SHOULD replace fittings every time you take 'em apart and put 'em back together - this, because those threads are DESIGNED to deform when installed, it's what helps 'em seal.
All that's why I really WASN'T kidding earlier... Steve
OP
powerscol
Veteran Member
Its amazing what I have learned here. D03 subplate with #8 SAE ORing it is.
Now to go back out and pull the seat again to measure my mounting plate location/size and figure out what type fitting I should use.
Is there someplace that gives the fitting dimensions? I guess I can call Monday.
But first I am being required to finish making and caning our pasta sauce for this years tomato crop before they rot:smiley_aafz::mur:
Now to go back out and pull the seat again to measure my mounting plate location/size and figure out what type fitting I should use.
Is there someplace that gives the fitting dimensions? I guess I can call Monday.
But first I am being required to finish making and caning our pasta sauce for this years tomato crop before they rot:smiley_aafz::mur:
BukitCase
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2012
- Messages
- 2,756
- Location
- Albany OR
- Tractor
- Case 580B, Long 460, Allis-Chalmers 160
This
http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/thread_guide.pdf
will give you both male and female thread sizes but NOT other dimensions), and if you wanna "ball park" things (before monday), you can get close by using that pdf chart, zooming in on DHH's picture of a particular fitting, and "SWAGing" as in, ScientificWildAzzGuess -
IOW, you know from the chart what the thread size OD is, use THAT info to "calibrate" your eye (a plastic ruler with mm on one side, held up to the screen helps) then, once you know that (I.E.) the part is 25mm across the threads, if the height of the part is TWICE that big then it's about 2" tall -
I actually GET that desperate sometimes, I'm "on a roll" and want to DO THIS THANG NOW (typically at 2am on a saturday
Of course, if you still have a tiny bit of sanity left there's always Monday :laughing: ... Steve
Oh, the OTHER option - there's a fair chance I already HAVE the parts you might be interested in, so if desperation WINS, ask and I'll get you some measurements, maybe even a pic or three...
http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/thread_guide.pdf
will give you both male and female thread sizes but NOT other dimensions), and if you wanna "ball park" things (before monday), you can get close by using that pdf chart, zooming in on DHH's picture of a particular fitting, and "SWAGing" as in, ScientificWildAzzGuess -
IOW, you know from the chart what the thread size OD is, use THAT info to "calibrate" your eye (a plastic ruler with mm on one side, held up to the screen helps) then, once you know that (I.E.) the part is 25mm across the threads, if the height of the part is TWICE that big then it's about 2" tall -
I actually GET that desperate sometimes, I'm "on a roll" and want to DO THIS THANG NOW (typically at 2am on a saturday
Of course, if you still have a tiny bit of sanity left there's always Monday :laughing: ... Steve
Oh, the OTHER option - there's a fair chance I already HAVE the parts you might be interested in, so if desperation WINS, ask and I'll get you some measurements, maybe even a pic or three...
OP
powerscol
Veteran Member
Sanity - what sanity :shocked::confused2:
Just so you know how may day went - got under the house in the tight crawl space to put some jars away and noticed a big wet spot in the dirt about 3/4 the way under the house. You guessed it - found a pin hole leak in a 1/2 stub pipe. So had to make a run to HD to get a better touch with map gas, some correct soder and flux and a end cap. Got it fixed and went back to pealing tomatoes (2 gallons worth this time fully seeded). Time for a cold one.
Monday will be fine. In no rush right now. I really need to get the valve and D03 plate to see where it will fit first then measure on the fittings. I am hoping I can go from the T port directly the the 3pt fitting and not need a clover leaf. I found a hydraulics shop in Farmington MN that can do hard lines and hard line hose combinations they can make up. Thinking of that combination to go up and over the 4WD lever so hoses don't rub. Ill haft to borrow so welding rod and mock up the bends. Good thing I mocked up the other valve. Too bad I spaced out getting dimensions for the mounting plate:mur:
Thanks everyone for the help.
:shocked::confused2:Just so you know how may day went - got under the house in the tight crawl space to put some jars away and noticed a big wet spot in the dirt about 3/4 the way under the house. You guessed it - found a pin hole leak in a 1/2 stub pipe. So had to make a run to HD to get a better touch with map gas, some correct soder and flux and a end cap. Got it fixed and went back to pealing tomatoes (2 gallons worth this time fully seeded). Time for a cold one.
Monday will be fine. In no rush right now. I really need to get the valve and D03 plate to see where it will fit first then measure on the fittings. I am hoping I can go from the T port directly the the 3pt fitting and not need a clover leaf. I found a hydraulics shop in Farmington MN that can do hard lines and hard line hose combinations they can make up. Thinking of that combination to go up and over the 4WD lever so hoses don't rub. Ill haft to borrow so welding rod and mock up the bends. Good thing I mocked up the other valve. Too bad I spaced out getting dimensions for the mounting plate:mur:
Thanks everyone for the help.
