Broken bolt removal, time to revisit.....

[Oldpath05]

A wax candle or something with wax is your friend in this case. Just weld the washer on and then touch the area around with the wax. The wax will flow into the treads and lubricate them. Then weld your nut on and do the same thing with the wax.

Put a flat wrench on the nut and start to work the stud back and forth. Most times after a few minutes you will start to get movement. Taping the edge of the casting with a hammer where the bolt is also helps. It also helps to tap the top of the nut a few times. Keep working the wrench back and forth. Once you fell a bit of movement you've won the battle. If you nut breaks off start over. I've never had a broken off stud that I couldn't remove doing this. Most times I can get the threads out with one welded nut. Sometimes it takes two but I've never had to weld on more than three nuts. Lots of wax is your friend!

I might try that on that last bolt, thanks for the tip...........

If and when you get those broken studs out; when replacing the muffler use brass nuts and a heat proof thread lubricant. Brass nut are the most common way to secure exhaust system bolting. The extreme heat does not cause the brass nuts to corrode. Brass nuts are easy to split with a chisel in the future also.

Ron

Brass nuts, never heard of that, but what holds the muffler on is bolts, not sure if there would be brass bolts around here or not, worth a look see.

 

[flyerdan]

Brass studs, with brass washers and nuts are fairly common in holding exhaust manifolds on in Japanese cars. What you might end up doing if you mess up the threads is to source some from a parts store that will fit through the new muffler, both diameter and length, and helicoil the cylinder to take them.

 

[tjkubota93]

As a co-worker used to preface things "in a past life...." I used to blow out broken bolts/grease fittings with a torch. They heat up faster than the surrounding metal. Then you chisel it out like the machinist. Never did aluminum though.

 

[Oldpath05]

I got one hole tapped tonight, do the next one tomorrow when I have time when things go south......
.

 

[2458n]

Start with the PB blaster about month before you are going to remove the bolt.

 

[fried1765]

Start with the PB blaster about month before you are going to remove the bolt.

KROIL seems to work MUCH better than PB Blaster.

 

[TCJatko]

If and when you get those broken studs out; when replacing the muffler use brass nuts and a heat proof thread lubricant. Brass nut are the most common way to secure exhaust system bolting. The extreme heat does not cause the brass nuts to corrode. Brass nuts are easy to split with a chisel in the future also.

Ron

Another trick to prevent seizing: coat bolts and nuts with milk of magnesia. Shake well, coat the threaded parts, let dry, reassemble. No more seizing. Authorized method on afterburner bolts and nuts on the J-79 in the F-4.

 

[Oldpath05]

Another trick to prevent seizing: coat bolts and nuts with milk of magnesia. Shake well, coat the threaded parts, let dry, reassemble. No more seizing. Authorized method on afterburner bolts and nuts on the J-79 in the F-4.

That's another new on me and to think I was just gonna settle on Never Seize and Raisin Brand. I remember my mother had that stuff 40 years ago, think it tasted like chalk maybe that's the secret ingredient to keep things from seizing up.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

my experience with brass nuts/studs goes way back to the 50s. I don't remember any engine that did not have them back then. Brass fasteners are everywhere. Hardware centers, even the big box stores that have that big array in small trays have them. Fastenal has then and so does McMaster Carr.

Ron

 

[aczlan]

Just tap the exhaust port to NPT and screw in a new muffler...

Aaron Z