Think I need a better tractor - B6000 with slasher puts front wheels off the ground

[greyman56]

Hi All, this is my first post here so I hope I have it in the right forum. Apologies to those that use feet and pounds, we use metric here in the land downunder.
We are on a 45 acre (18ha) property that we purchased a couple of years ago and are in the process of reviving after plenty of neglect.

What I want to achieve:-
I have a Mango orchid with 50 trees planted in 4 rows running down a slope of nearly 1 in 4 (30m fall over just under 120m measured horizontally). The orchid is grassed with a clumpy tropical grass (Setaria), some smaller grasses, and it is a bit sparse in places exposing the shale/clay based soil.

I can slash between the rows with my Mahindra 40HP 4x4 tractor with ROPS and SOPS, but cannot easily get under and around the trees without damaging the tree branches, which is a problem especially during the flowering time. I am reasonably proficient on the 40HP as I have done 180 hours slashing all sorts of terrain with it and feel quite comfortable with its operation.

So I would like a compact tractor with either a mid mounted mower, or a small slasher (around 1m or 3ft), to get in and around the tree trunks.


What I have done so far:-
First attempt was to use the petrol ride-on mower (John Deere L100 with turf tyres), but it was a pain in the proverbial backside when changing direction on the slope, producing a lot of wheel spin (being rear wheel drive) and making it too hard to get around. Scratch that idea.

I had an old ZB6000 (Zen-Noh copy of the Kubota B6000) that was sitting out in the paddock for the last 5 years and was broken. This is a good size for the job, is 4x4, diesel, and more tractor than ride-on mower. So I asked the local tractor mechanical shop to advise on the suitability of reviving this and adding a small slasher to the back. No probs they tell me. I asked them to do the job as, even though I am fairly good with mechanical things, I knew nothing about tractors and diesel engines.


What happened:-
The ZB6000 tractor repairs went pretty well. New nozzles for the 2 injectors, new filters, replaced all the fluids, replaced all the seals in the front axle (ouch, that was pricey), and a few little things to prevent the water from getting into the gearbox. All good. The tractor felt better than it had ever been since I had it. Turned out it was partly broken since I bought it. You learn from these things <grin>.

So then I bought a Daiken 1.0 405 series galvanised slasher brand new. They do not put rear jockey wheels on these small implements so it just rides on the side skids. Nice looking slasher. Do you guys call them bush hogs over there?

Fitted the slasher to the 3PL, cut down the PTO shaft to suit. Then went out into the paddock to see how she went.

Well, did I get a shock! On flat ground it was OK. I noticed it a bit light in the steering though. And when I got to a bit of a slope in softer ground, the front wheels came right off the ground and I had to use the brakes to keep it going reasonably straight. So dangerous I only did about 5 minutes of experimenting and then took it back to the shed. This will just not do the job.

What is my thinking so far:-
As I have already spent more on this project than I wanted to, it would be good to keep the cost down. So far, spent about $3000 reviving the ZB6000 and $1700 on the little slasher. I think I could get the money back for the tractor, but would lose a bit on the slasher.

I figured I have 2 choices here.

1. Sell both the slasher and ZB6000 and get a similar compact tractor with mid mounted mower.
My concern about this solution is there are some rocky patches of ground and some dead branches around the trees which might give the MMM a hard time and reduce the life of the mower deck.
I found a Kubota B7100 with HST and MMM for around $5000 and nearly bought that, but got beaten to it by another cash buyer that got there before me. This might have been a lucky break for me .

2. Sell the ZB6000 and get another compact tractor that can handle the slasher.
I feel that this is a better option, but am not sure how to size the tractor for the job. This is where you good folk could help me the most.

So looking forward to any feedback you can give.
Cheers, Graham

 

[bigdeano]

How about putting some weights on the front. If you have a use for a front loader that would hold it down too. Tractor might be too small for a loader though.

You could put a tail wheel on the slasher for not too much money probably.

 

[tjkubota93]

Being the 1 meter width, your tractor should have enough power.

It is normal with any tractor to have to put some weight up front with a heavy rear implement. I use my front loader or I'm popping wheelies with my 48" cut bush hog.

You might look into getting some suitcase weights if you aren't the type to invent your own.

So X2 on what deano said.

 

[CalG]

bigdeano said it

Front weights.

Suitcase weights they are called here. 100kg is not too much.

Equal to the weight of the slasher.

 

[greyman56]

Thanks for replies.
The slasher is 155kg (~340lbs). That's a biggish weight and could cost a bit when there is no mounting bar to speak of.
I'll look into the costs of this option.
The mechanic have quoted $450 to fabricate rear jockey wheel, plus fitting.
After 2 weeks still no price on front weight mounting. Could end up expensive.

 

[mcfarmall]

Your front end weights don't have to be OEM. Any heavy items will work just fine, scrap steel plate bolted together in a stack, a heavy plate box filled with concrete and other thick metal scrap, etc..

 

[Wagtail]

G'day Cobber and welcome to TBN from Tassie.

A quick site search, using Orchard Mowing as the key words in the google custom search box at the top of this page has resulted in many responses. Particularly regarding orchard flail mowers. Good reading.

Enjoy the site.

 

[Spanner]

G'day Graham. 'Suitcase weights' was the first thought in my mind as I read your OP then I scroll down to find the other guys saying the same. You need to counter-balance the weight of the rear implement. Save your money on the tail-wheel. You don't need it. A 'Slasher' (as we know them too) rides on the side skids quite well enough to chop down your vegetation.

Your JD ride-on will never cope with either the grass or the sheer area. Leave it for 'home' use.

You can fabricate a bar to bolt to the front of your chassis to hold the weights. - Or - You could make a box to hold scrap steel but the suitcase slices are easier to lift on/off by yourself.

The American have these 'Bush-Hogs' which are slightly different to our 'slashers' having a tail-wheel and different blade set-up it seems.

Oh, and you confuse me with the B6000 and the ZB6000 interchange terminology. You said you had the Zen Noe (sic) "repaired" and now refer to a B6000?? If you have a "Zen-Noh" it would be a "ZL1800" or something similar?? The B6000 is a Kubota.

P.s. Zen-Noh are big into that Wagyu Beef craze that's sweeping the restaurant world by storm currently.

Regards,
:drink:

 

[Quebecguy]

we use metric here in the land downunder.
We are on a 45 acre property

What is that in hectares?

 

[greyman56]

What is that in hectares?

<grin> Around 18ha.

 

[greyman56]

Oh, and you confuse me with the B6000 and the ZB6000 interchange terminology. You said you had the Zen Noe (sic) "repaired" and now refer to a B6000?? If you have a "Zen-Noh" it would be a "ZL1800" or something similar?? The B6000 is a Kubota.

Yep, sloppy keyboarding. Its a Zen-noh ZB6000 which I was told was basically a kubota B6000 made for a rice paddy cooperative way back then. Its one of the first they made apparently and the pto spins opposite direction to normal tractors.

 

[Utopia Texas]

Years ago we had a Satoh Bull on the property that was rear heavy and needed cheap front weights.
Bought a 3 foot long piece of railroad track and bolted to the front. Problem solved.

 

[Utopia Texas]

Years ago we had a Satoh Bull on the property that was rear heavy and needed cheap front weights.
Bought a 3 foot long piece of railroad track and bolted to the front. Problem solved.

 

[N2DFire]

Thanks for replies.
The slasher is 155kg (~340lbs). That's a biggish weight and could cost a bit when there is no mounting bar to speak of.
I'll look into the costs of this option.
The mechanic have quoted $450 to fabricate rear jockey wheel, plus fitting.
After 2 weeks still no price on front weight mounting. Could end up expensive.

I am in agreement with the masses.
Fabricating some type of weight system to the front would be the first thing I'd do.

I attached a picture I found and it looks like you could easily fabricate some type of mounting plate on the front of the frame and then the sky's the limit on what to use for weight.

If you can find someone selling an old weight set (weight bench, dumbells, etc) you could use the weight disks / plates from that easily enough or just build a box and fill it with rocks.


Unless this is a Per Wheel Price and not for the pair, the second thing would be to find a new mechanic.
55615DC Slasher Level Wheel - Daken 405 Series $250.00 (inc GST)
Slasher Level Wheel

If it is per wheel then I'd keep the mechanic :laughing:

Best of luck

 

[John_Mc]

As others have noted, suitcase weights or a homemade version of front weights are the way to go.

As far as your JD lawnmower: I had the same problem using an old craftsman on hills. I just put on the tire chains I use when removing snow in the winter and it solved the problem. The chains stay on year round now. On my previous riding mower, I just swapped out the turf tires for ag-style tread. That also worked fine (I'm not going for the manicured, golf-course lawn look, so the occasional tread mark on the lawn does not bother me.)

 

[greyman56]

To everyone that replied with ideas on front weights, thank you. If this works, it will be easier and probably cheaper than selling one tractor and buying another tractor in the $5000 price range. And I still might needs weights on the front of the new one.

The mechanic has envisaged a mounting for barbells (gym equipment) on the front just like Steve suggested. Second hand barbells are not common in this area, perhaps in the city might be easier. The concept is sound though.

I am also considering making some concrete blocks in 50kg sizes with inbuilt reinforcement rod loops to hang them from a frame extending out.

Thanks fellas. I have more searching to do.

 

[greyman56]

Unless this is a Per Wheel Price and not for the pair, the second thing would be to find a new mechanic.
55615DC Slasher Level Wheel - Daken 405 Series $250.00 (inc GST)
Slasher Level Wheel

If it is per wheel then I'd keep the mechanic :laughing:

The little 1M slasher does not have any mount points for rear wheels so the mechanic would need to fabricate the mountings. That's why its expensive.

 

[MortOz]

If you can spend some money, you could look into an offset flail mower or verge mower, depending on how far away from the tress you can run the tractor as they mature. A bit of money, but probably the only mower you would need - something like Flail Mower Verge Mower Heavy Duty 1.4m Working Width PTO Powered Bush Cutter | eBay or one of the Hayes ones that offset: FLAIL MOWER - Hayes Products - Tractor Attachments and Implements (Hayes import, probably from China, but it seems to be good stuff - I have a round bale grab from them, and am very impressed with the quality and strength of construction.)

For the orchards in our part of the sunshine state (citrus, mangoes, tree nuts), most growers use a glyphosate herbicide in close to the trees when weeds are small, and an offset slasher or flail mower to do the bulk. Flail mowers are popular, as when you prune, you can throw the prunings into the inter-row spaces and then run over with the flail mower to mulch them up. A single good flail mower with hydraulic offset would cost a bit now, but would be the only mower/mulcher you will ever need (well, except for the lawns around the house!).

Good luck, and let us know what you decide

 

[N2DFire]

The little 1M slasher does not have any mount points for rear wheels so the mechanic would need to fabricate the mountings. That's why its expensive.

Well bummer. At least the pricing makes a little more sense now.

Good luck in your search. I think you're on the right track with a weight system vs a new tractor.

 

[powerscol]

I second getting a swing arm flail as it would be the perfect solution for you. Iowa Farm Equipment has a great selection for you to look at and then find a dealer down under.. How far are you from Perth. I have a friend there.