SA cylinder on closed center system. ..

[wareagle50]

Ok we have a JD 5420 and want to run a post driver that's mounted on the FEL. The post driver has a SA cylinder and it's own valve, which I assume is an open center valve. What is the proper way to connect the post driver? Do I have to purchase a closed center valve or is there a way to make it work?

 

[RickB]

You should be able to convert the post pounder's valve to closed center by buying and installing a closed center plug. If the pounder is a Shaver, the plug is readily available from a Shaver dealer.

 

[wareagle50]

Yes, it is a Shaver just a very old one with a Gresen valve. i didnt see any place to put the plug but i dont fully understand how it works or where it goes either.

 

[RickB]

You replace a short plug with a longer plug having two seals. Basically blocks the oil from flowing through the valve when the spool is centered. Any Shaver dealer can get you that plug. Google Shaver post driver and look up the parts online.

Not a difficult or expensive fix. The plug would also be available elsewhere if you can match the Gresen valve.

 

[wareagle50]

Well, it looks like the closed center plug for my valove is obsolete. So now is my only option to replace my valve with one that will work? I may put in a call to Shaver and see if they have a cheap solution.

 

[RickB]

See if they will give you a Gresen part number. If they can't sell the plug, the least they can do is provide the OEM part number. Take that to Bailey or Surplus Center. If no Gresen part number, call Surplus Center with a Gresen valve body casting number. This is not an insurmountable problem.

 

[wareagle50]

Ok that sounds like a plan. Thanks very much for your advice.

 

[Tx Jim]

What makes you think your JD 5420 has closed center hyd's? Tratordata states JD 5420 has open center hyd's & also checked hyd pump part number and it appears to be open center type.

 

[wareagle50]

well, i was going by what my daddy said and the fact that every other JD we've had has been closed center but mabye he is wrong.

 

[wareagle50]

Update.
Apparently the 5420 is open center after all so our problem is something else. The issue we are having is, the post driver woks fine but the fluid is getting very hot. We are running the driver off of one of the remote valves which he is holding open while he uses the valve on the driver. He tried to solve the issue by plumbing a reservoir into the return with the thinking that the fluid couldn't exit fast enough from the driver. That didn't help so we are back to square one now. Any suggestions on how to proceed?

 

[RickB]

Does the Shaver valve have the CC plug in it now? When the tractor valve is stroked and the Shaver valve is centered in neutral is there oil flowing through the return?

 

[Leejohn]

The work ports on the remote valve are just to small to run a driver, that is where the heat is coming from.

 

[RickB]

The work ports on the remote valve are just to small to run a driver, that is where the heat is coming from.

The flow demand of the driver is moderate at best. Tractor remote and pump are matched, a high demand downstream won't create heat in the tractor remote even if that demand existed.

 

[Tx Jim]

Where do you have post driver hyd valve return hose attached to tractor? IIRC return hose should be routed directly to tractor sump not scv.

 

[wareagle50]

No, we actually have two drivers with two different looking valves (assuming one is OC and the other is CC just from looking at them) and we tried them both with similar results.

 

[wareagle50]

Where do you have post driver hyd valve return hose attached to tractor? IIRC return hose should be routed directly to tractor sump not scv.

The driver is mounted on the FEL. One line goes to the rear remote and the other I think he has directly to the sump but I need to confirm that.

 

[RickB]

Does the Shaver valve have the CC plug in it now? When the tractor valve is stroked and the Shaver valve is centered in neutral is there oil flowing through the return?

No, we actually have two drivers with two different looking valves (assuming one is OC and the other is CC just from looking at them) and we tried them both with similar results.

Still waiting for an answer to my question.
Visual inspection won't identify a CC or OC valve in many cases.

 

[wareagle50]

Still waiting for an answer to my question.
Visual inspection won't identify a CC or OC valve in many cases.

Understood. Ill have to check the return flow when i get back out there.

 

[wareagle50]

He DOES NOT have constant flow with the remote valve open and the driver valversion in neutral. One line IS plugged in the remote and the other directly to the sump. I can't go look at it in person right now to tell anything about the driver valve. Can I asume it's a closed center and that's why it's getting hot?

 

[RickB]

He DOES NOT have constant flow with the remote valve open and the driver valversion in neutral. One line IS plugged in the remote and the other directly to the sump. I can't go look at it in person right now to tell anything about the driver valve. Can I asume it's a closed center and that's why it's getting hot?

Yes. The good news is that the valve SHOULD be able to be converted to OC by removing the CC plug which has two o rings on it and replacing it with a simple ORB style plug of the proper size. You have the benefit of having seen the valve parts diagram and should be able to find the CC plug when you get to see it in person.