Slip Clutch Adjustment help!

[TheMan419]

So bought a tiller. It has a slip clutch. I loosened all the springs. It was to the point that just moving through virgin ground the tines would stop every so often. I assume that was the slip clutch kicking in? So I tightened the springs about a full turn. Now the tiller is lugging the engine every so often.

So I assume that means I need to loosen the springs a bit? It seems they were too loose and now too tight? Half a turn maybe?

Any advice apprciated. This is my first attachment with a slip clutch.

 

[wagne223]

Slip clutches can be tricky........
Lugging (working) the engine is normal depending on what you are tilling. What you dont want is for the engine to stall if the tiller locks up on a rock or stump. If it does stall, the clutch is too tight and not protecting the tractor.

So you want to slip clutch tight enough to do the work, but not so tight that it stalls the tractor when the tiller locks up.

If the slip clutch is too loose then it will wear out rapidly and you need to replace the friction discs.

Also, 1/4 to half turn makes a difference.

Sounds like yours might be correct the way it is now.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I have never adjusted my tiller slip clutch. I like it the way it's set right now. It'll stall the engine but most times I'm quick enough to shut the pto off before the engine stalls.

I don't reset it every spring as I store my tiller inside and it doesn't get rusty.

 

[Grandad4]

I always used 1/4 turn adjustments on my tiller slip clutch. Does the tiller also stop spinning when the engine lugs down or does it keep going? If it is continiuing to spin, yes you need to loosen the clutch a bit. It would be normal for the engine to still be under load when the clutch activates since it does not fully release like the clutch in a vehicle.

 

[Tigershark]

It takes some time to get one dialed in, I started a little loose then made adjustments to tighten until I felt it shouldn't be slipping, just make sure once you slip the clutch that you allow it to cool off before making the adjustments. After a hour of so mine was dialed in perfect for my hard clay.

 

[TheMan419]

I always used 1/4 turn adjustments on my tiller slip clutch. Does the tiller also stop spinning when the engine lugs down or does it keep going? If it is continiuing to spin, yes you need to loosen the clutch a bit. It would be normal for the engine to still be under load when the clutch activates since it does not fully release like the clutch in a vehicle.

The tiller keeps spinning. So I will loosen a 1/4 turn and see what happens. Thanks.

 

[TheMan419]

It takes some time to get one dialed in, I started a little loose then made adjustments to tighten until I felt it shouldn't be slipping, just make sure once you slip the clutch that you allow it to cool off before making the adjustments. After a hour of so mine was dialed in perfect for my hard clay.

Yeah I spent about an hour with it and was just not quite dialed in apparently. I have to be close!

 

[Oldtink]

:thumbsup: at least you're making an effort to adjust it. If you know the mfg. of the slip clutch, they may have spring lengths listed on their web site in relation to applied torque.

 

[TheMan419]

:thumbsup: at least you're making an effort to adjust it. If you know the mfg. of the slip clutch, they may have spring lengths listed on their web site in relation to applied torque.

Yeah it is my first (and so far only) implement with a slip clutch. The manual that came with the shaft was ever so helpful. The full instruction was "Properly adjust torque limit clutch". Gee thanks. I can see why for the tiller it is a better choice than a shear pin would be. For my bush hog I certainly prefer the shear pin.

The nuts that need turned are 9/16 so I guess I need to toss a 9/16 wrench in the tool box and keep tinkering as I go.

 

[moship]

If not already mentioned... For visual proof the clutch is slipping make a line across the clutch and steel plates.

 

[bigtiller]

The tiller keeps spinning. So I will loosen a 1/4 turn and see what happens. Thanks.

You're on the right path. If it slips under a medium-to-heavy load, tighten it up 1/4 turn. Try to keep all the bolts at equal pressure.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I have never adjusted my tiller slip clutch. I like it the way it's set right now. It'll stall the engine but most times I'm quick enough to shut the pto off before the engine stalls.

I don't reset it every spring as I store my tiller inside and it doesn't get rusty.

Perfect -- assuming it does sometimes slip as the engine stalls.​

There is much ado about very little in the thread. A slip clutch is a catastrophic overload prevention device. It should not act within normal max torque of the tractor, but only above that.

 

[TheMan419]

If not already mentioned... For visual proof the clutch is slipping make a line across the clutch and steel plates.

So I knew to do that. However I know the clutch was slipping because it got HOT. however my the two pieces of tape I put on remained aligned. I must have them on the same part of the cliutch?

 

[JRobyn]

The best way to keep uniform pressure around the clutch is to keep all the spring lengths the same (at least within 1/32" or so). One of these is a handy and cheap way to do that. And to set them back after their annual loosen/spin/buff maintenance.

General Tools 3/1 6-Inch Flex Precision Stainless Steel Rule - Construction Rulers - Amazon.com

 

[nybirdman]

I have never adjusted my tiller slip clutch. I like it the way it's set right now. It'll stall the engine but most times I'm quick enough to shut the pto off before the engine stalls.

I don't reset it every spring as I store my tiller inside and it doesn't get rusty.

You are making a mistake not servicing your slip clutch;if it stalls the tractor the clutch is "not" working period.It is not that difficult to do.

 

[Rara Avis]

I have never adjusted my tiller slip clutch. I like it the way it's set right now. It'll stall the engine but most times I'm quick enough to shut the pto off before the engine stalls.

I don't reset it every spring as I store my tiller inside and it doesn't get rusty.

Well, at some point in time you'll be posting a question on how to rebuild your tractor's pto clutch...

 

[pmsmechanic]

Ah but you guys are both wrong. My slip clutch gets tested every year. Most times by just the right sized rock getting caught up in the tines. If there was no slip in the clutch there is no chance that I would get the pto shut off in time. I'm fairly quick but not that quick.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I have never adjusted my tiller slip clutch. I like it the way it's set right now. It'll stall the engine but most times I'm quick enough to shut the pto off before the engine stalls.

I don't reset it every spring as I store my tiller inside and it doesn't get rusty.

Perfect -- assuming it does sometimes slip as the engine stalls.​

There is much ado about very little in the thread. A slip clutch is a catastrophic overload prevention device. It should not act within normal max torque of the tractor, but only above that.

You are making a mistake not servicing your slip clutch;if it stalls the tractor the clutch is "not" working period.It is not that difficult to do.

Well, at some point in time you'll be posting a question on how to rebuild your tractor's pto clutch...

You guys havnt a clue.​

Try to figure out a good question to ask.

 

[pmsmechanic]

You guys havnt a clue.​

Try to figure out a good question to ask.

Your right! I haven't got a clue what you are trying to say.

 

[brown40]

I never really thought about the annual service as adjustment, so much as knocking off high spots off, debris out, and polishing the friction plates for the season. Count the turns until you get the spring(s) out of tension, and return them back to where they were after you've polished. I back them off so soft ground/long grass--any mild to moderate resistance--will let the clutch slip and polish.
The first good slip there's usually a "puff" of plate material that stood proud and shears away... I will set the tines/blades up and down a few times and watch the gearbox to be sure I'm getting a few revolutions. Once I'm comfortable its smooth I return the springs to my "original setting".
Setting a slip clutch is dependent on the application--getting the work done without damage is all you want. Excess slippage will burn up the discs, but they are the soft/wear item in the mix.
You want them to slip below the rated torque of the tractor and gearbox, so that neither risk damage with impact. That means the setting for your 30hp tractor feeding a 120 hp gearbox can be different than the one a 70hp tractor slips without risk--not that it should be--the setting should be paired with the task and tractor. Getting it safe for your unit is more important than trying to get it close to maximum output for your unit.
If your taking the time, polish them right up--prolonged slippage and heat will wear them out, but dipping it in and out polishing won't.