Spanner
Veteran Member
These radiators, oil coolers and intercoolers have high thermal efficiency Aluminium cores/fins. Beware of using any potentially caustic cleaning products. 
:wrench:
:wrench:
4720 overheating running hot need advise
- Thread starter Brown Dog
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OP
Brown Dog
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- John Deere 5115M 5101E H260 5115M 540M all MFD
I ALWAYS blow my radiators out (from backside) with air & the wand I bought from my JD dealer BEFORE using any water.
If any crud in ther gets wet & not washed out, it's worse than leaving it in ther DRY.
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
Air is fine on a regular basis in most cases. A good coil cleaner and rinse with water is a good thing too, the surfactants in the cleaner loosen up buildup on the fins. Once a year I like to use the coil cleaner for everything I can reach.
Curly69
Bronze Member
I use air on mine regularly too. It was running hot and I was amazed how plugged it was. It did make a huge difference though.
kthompson
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I really wondered on that about the oil. Felt you had to know that was normal. LOL
As to the internet talk on saying engine can not get that hot with thermostat removed, well why not just design with no thermostat or radiator or fan? So do they mean it will not get that hot is EVERYTHING else is as it should be? Maybe should just be an air cooled design, again lol. I still hold with something simple needs cleaning. Radiator most likely and air filter second most likely.
Spanner
Veteran Member
Outer & Inner filters replaced?
:wrench:
:wrench:
Spanner
Veteran Member
Well good luck there BD. The air filter is worth checking daily when you check oil, coolant and trans fluid. Many people skip the daily checks but it is easy to monitor your tractors health with visual checks.
I have one last thought for you:
After checking/changing the air filter, take care with regard to the position (orientation) of the filter end-cap. Specifically, in relation to the position of the rubber squeeze/purge valve. (Item #10 in this pic):
It needs to point downwards - but on the 4x20 tractors it must be rotated anti-clockwise a little to ensure it clears the serpentine belt. This belt 'flaps' a bit at lower rpm's and wears the tip off the rubber valve. Now that doesn't sound too bad but it allows the fan to force draughted air (containing dust drawn through the radiator) up into the air filter housing, through the purge valve.
The 4x20 has an intake snorkel tube which runs forward over the radiator to capture cleaner (and unpressurised) air from the cavity over the battery which is behind the front grille screen.
By allowing the fan to force dusty air into the housing through the purge valve, air filter element life is drastically reduced.
So, check your purge valve position and rotate it away from the belt and make sure the rubber is not rubbed away creating a hole.
Once correctly positioned I use a white correction pen to make alignment marks on the housing and the cap for future reference.
Yes, the cap does have the word "Top" and an arrow moulded into it but this filter assembly is a generic item made by 'Donaldson' for use in many applications. On the 4x20 the 'Top' is is a few degrees off (in my opinion).
I may have explained that poorly but hope it can be understood.
:wrench:
I have one last thought for you:
After checking/changing the air filter, take care with regard to the position (orientation) of the filter end-cap. Specifically, in relation to the position of the rubber squeeze/purge valve. (Item #10 in this pic):
It needs to point downwards - but on the 4x20 tractors it must be rotated anti-clockwise a little to ensure it clears the serpentine belt. This belt 'flaps' a bit at lower rpm's and wears the tip off the rubber valve. Now that doesn't sound too bad but it allows the fan to force draughted air (containing dust drawn through the radiator) up into the air filter housing, through the purge valve.
The 4x20 has an intake snorkel tube which runs forward over the radiator to capture cleaner (and unpressurised) air from the cavity over the battery which is behind the front grille screen.
By allowing the fan to force dusty air into the housing through the purge valve, air filter element life is drastically reduced.
So, check your purge valve position and rotate it away from the belt and make sure the rubber is not rubbed away creating a hole.
Once correctly positioned I use a white correction pen to make alignment marks on the housing and the cap for future reference.
Yes, the cap does have the word "Top" and an arrow moulded into it but this filter assembly is a generic item made by 'Donaldson' for use in many applications. On the 4x20 the 'Top' is is a few degrees off (in my opinion).
I may have explained that poorly but hope it can be understood.
:wrench:
OP
Brown Dog
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Good Point & Explanation, Spanner.
I added a thick piece of foam rubber under the air filter housing to hold it up higher in the bracket when I first bought the tractor 3yrs ago.
This makes the purge valve clear the belt, when pointed strait down.
I added a thick piece of foam rubber under the air filter housing to hold it up higher in the bracket when I first bought the tractor 3yrs ago.
This makes the purge valve clear the belt, when pointed strait down.