Hydraulic gauge install

Gregster613 · Mar 5, 2017

Hello TYMr's,
I wondered if I could get some help or at least ideas where to look next. I'm trying to cobble together a hydro gauge to occasionally monitor my system. I'd like to be able to plug in and out from the loader system as that's usually all I'm concerned about. My trouble is I am having a devil of a time trying to find quick disconnect fittings that will allow me to do so.

Information written on my original fittings that came with my TYM273 follows: written/stamped on only the female -- KWAN KWANG 09 PT 3/8 -- they are mounted to 1/4 inch flexible hose from the loader valve and connect to hard line pipe. This is where I disconnect whenever the loader is removed. I see the reducers in the ends of each (Male & Female) fitting. So, I came to the conclusion they are 3/8 QD fittings. They appear to be agricultural style fittings, but they do not have the rounded ball inside, rather a prominent protruded end, on a slightly v-shaped style ball - perhaps a pop-up style? I am unsure as to that. The male has nothing written/stamped on it at all.

I purchased from DHH three sets of 3/8 inch 3AGF3 - AG3F3 which are supposed to interchange with Parker/Pioneer 4050-3 [female] & 4010-3 [male]. Hoped they'd fit, but ... they don't. They won't quite fit inside the KWAN KWANG fittings - they are just a "tad" bigger in body. I realize that I could just buy several more QD's and change out them all - but - I'd rather not do all that.

If I can just figure out what they interchange with my solution to a plug-in gauge is solved. Have any of you ever sourced Korean hyd fittings? Any source suggestions greatly appreciated!
Thanks, Greg

myyaz33 · Mar 5, 2017

Yeah they are a poppet style, not your normal ag style. I made a pressure tester for mine as well and will scrounge up the parts list and get it to you tomorrow. Think i got the gauge from Surplus Center and the quick connects from Discount Hydraulic Hose.

Gregster613 · Mar 5, 2017

Hi myyaz33,
Thanks for the reply. I figured the ones I got were wrong. Close but no cigar! They'll come in handy later on for something else when/if I ever get round to it. I've got a good gauge already; can get all other connections needed from NAPA, EXcept for the quick connects! Darn it. I'd sure appreciate the source and/or part numbers for the QD's you used. I used DHH already; I asked for - and got - what I asked for. The wrong ones! Ha!

I'd also like to tap your memory about the diverter - switch - relay [if needed] and any info you have about the grapple you built/installed. Top notch job that was!! Kudo's to you once again. I'm only working on getting a gauge to check my system now, but am intending on adding a Green's thumb also. So will be needing to get my fingers and mind further dirty with hydro fluid and knowledge. I'll be watching for your experienced recommendations as to both.
Thanks, Greg

Tractor Seabee · Mar 5, 2017

Usually foreign QC knock offs do not work well with the supposed equal. Might pay to replace them with a name brand like Parker (style of your choice). I made up a gauge set with a 3/8 X 3/8 X 1/4 steel tee with male and female QCs each end and a gauge in the side connection. I can now insert that into any QC connection point.

Ron

Gregster613 · Mar 6, 2017

Tractor Seabee, That is exactly the style of hook-up I am attempting to create. Just didn't want to change out the original fittings if I could work around or with them. However it looks like that route may indeed be the easier way to go. I was just hoping someone else had done this already and had found a match. When I get to the adding a diverter stage it would be nice to have all fittings the same - one gauge to test all areas. I will wait for a spell to see if anyone comes up with a match. If not, I'll go through NAPA and try to find some Pioneer fittings. My old dealer - long gone now - used those for my 3 spool valve. I can't seem to locate Pioneer fittings on the web, but am sure NAPA can.
Thanks for your thoughts/advice. Greg

Bud Soda · Mar 6, 2017

Don't know if you have a Tractor Supply where you are located but they would have the gauge, QC fittings, and adapters. You could just hook the gauge to your rear aux hydro connector.

myyaz33 · Mar 6, 2017

You will need a female 3/8" ISO 7241-1 Series A for the loader and a male 1/2" of the same if you want to check rear remotes. If this is your only use for them, then buying singles will be cheaper escpecially since they are different sizes. Otherwise, I usually buy them in sets of male/female in case i might use the other for something else. Prices really vary, but I have had good luck with fittings from DHH on my TYM.

ISO 7241-1 Series A Hydraulic Quick Disconnect Couplers

Gregster - Let me know if you have any specific questions on the grapple and diverter I added. Wanted to do a complete thread on it but havent gotten to it yet.

Gregster613 · Mar 7, 2017

Thank you for that info myyaz33. I will order several sets and see how it works out. You did mean that they "interchange" not replace didn't you? Thanks.
To all readers I apologize. I should have added that I had also posted this in the Hydraulics thread. Often there isn't much traffic over here and I was desperate to find a solution. Sorry if that confused or upset anyone. My mistake.
Greg

myyaz33 · Mar 7, 2017

Gregster613 said:
You did mean that they "interchange" not replace didn't you? Greg

If you are are referring to something I said, I am not sure what it is.

Gregster613 said:
Sorry if that confused or upset anyone. My mistake. Greg

Didn't bother me, I have done that as well. Specially in the Hydraulic forum.

Gregster613 · Mar 8, 2017

myyaz33, What I was asking is whether the 3/8" ISO 7241-1 Series A couplings fit into/interchange with the KWAN KWANG 09 PT 3/8 fittings that are already fitted to the loader? Since you said I only need the female - I "assume" that means it fits into the existing KWAN KWANG 09 PT 3/8 male? That is all I am attempting to clarify.

I'm going to buy a complete set anyhow, just wonder if I need to buy more than one set and change out them all (so I have the ability to plug in anywhere in my circuit) or not. I intend to build my gauge so that I can plug in from the valve and back onto the loader hard-line itself. Be completely within the flowing circuit. I saw one shown that I want to copy. A Tee fitting with a female coupling on one end, a male on the other, the gauge in the middle. Hope I didn't confuse you even more. It's clear in my head, but perhaps doesn't come out sounding as clear. Thanks, Greg

The shown gauge set-up I referred to was by Xfaxman in a separate post.

myyaz33 · Mar 8, 2017

Ok. Gotcha.. Yes they should interchange just fine as mine did. If were a long term thing that would stay on, then mating the pairs would make sense.

Gregster613 · Mar 9, 2017

Okay and Thanks big time! That's exactly what I was searching for. I'm going to order several sets then, to be ready for whenever I get to my diverter install. I just wanted to ensure they would fit into the Korean fittings already installed. It'll make everything much simpler.
Appreciate the info. Greg

Xfaxman · Mar 10, 2017

The shown gauge set-up I referred to was by Xfaxman in a separate post.

Here it is, one male connector, one female connector, can be plugged in in either direction, in line or dead headed.

myyaz33 · Mar 10, 2017

Gregster613 said:
I'm going to order several sets then, to be ready for whenever I get to my diverter install.

If you haven't ordered these already, I'd ask how you intend to use these for your diverter install? What are you looking to add that you would put these on?

Gregster613 · Mar 13, 2017

Marty, I planned to install my diverter on the loader arm [like you did] and I need to use two QD's on the diverter so that I can still easily remove the loader if needed. The two raise/lower lines will remain as is, but the curl/dump will be changed.
My 4 lines now go to QD's at the loader hard-lines, {they are hard screwed into the loader valve and have QD's just as enter the hard lines. The curl circuit will be interrupted and needs to go from diverter to the hard-lines. Which is why I was trying to find QD's that matched/interchanged. I can hard screw they into the diverter as they go to the hard-lines, but the feed lines need to be able to be detached.
Thus, I believe I need at least two sets for the diverter and I'll need to more at the bucket end, plus I want to create a gauge. I believe I'm looking at 5 sets at least. Plus, If they do interchange with the Korean KWANG style; it won't hurt to have several as spares on hand.
Have I confused you even more now? Ha! I believe I've got a handle on it but I haven't yet ordered the 7241-A's that you suggested yet. Other projects derailed me for a weekend. I will be getting on it soon though.
Thanks, Greg

myyaz33 · Mar 13, 2017

Hey Greg, I had to read your post quite a few times before I realized that what you were explaining was that your loader is plumbed differently than mine. I went back and looked at one of your original posts where you had pictures of your new 273 and definitely see your loader is plumbed different than mine. I've attached some pictures which should explain why I was asking for more detail. Hopefully these are useful in helping you get yours done, but it does sound like you are on the right track. It's unfortunate because the plate that they outfitted mine with with having the 4 quick disconnects made it really easy to plumb and remove the loader. I only had to worry about making the electrical connector for the diverter easily disconnected.

Gregster613 · Mar 14, 2017

Hi Marty, Yes mine is plumbed quite differently. Guess I should have explained that better. My disconnects are all at the hard-lines [where yours are screwed in] my hoses give plenty of room for flexibility but down at the valve - it's Quite Tight. I will need (2) QD's at the diverter, which isn't really a problem - just different from most. Thanks for the renewal view of your set-up! Reminds me of a few items I'll be asking you later - like how did you choose to do the electrical? Run a separate line to the battery is my thought. The switch in/on the joystick is going to be problematic also; I think.
I'm not close to there yet however. I read a lot about many people needing to use a relay too; that sorta confuses me some. I have much to think out/work on before I get completed. One quick question though, If I do this in stages, IE buy and mount the diverter first - connect the curl system lines, in and out of the diverter, but not finish the rest - can I still use the bucket curl system without plumbing the grapple lines until later? Will I need to put plugs in the diverter inlets/outlets that are not used? If so, I can work on this a piece at a time as funds/projects allow. Your thoughts?
Thanks, Greg

myyaz33 · Mar 14, 2017

I will have to double check on exactly how I ran the electrical. I think I just tapped into the auxiliary wire that was under the seat/wheel well, but I will check back to you for sure. I know I did not use relay so that probably means I did run off the fused aux wire like i imagined. The diverter does not draw much at all so it really didnt need it. You can do it in stages if you plug the unused ports as mentioned. That will cost you a few extra bucks for plugs... Just make sure you get the correct ports hooked up for when the diverter is not energized. In my diverter that was ports C & D

You know, I have some hoses that I got the incorrect fittings on, this may be an opportunity to find a use for them. If you have an opportunity, could you take a couple of pictures of the hoses and fittings on your loader and send them my way?

Gregster613 · Mar 15, 2017

Marty, I'll see what I can come up with for pictures of my hoses/valve block. I don't have any type of smart phone at all - just a dumb one like me - so I'll dig out the camera this weekend, snap a few shots, and then struggle to figure out the down/up load/re-size process and see what comes out. I haven't done any of that for several years. Need to find proper cords, etc., etc. Bear with me and I'll get it - eventually. Thanks for all your advice/suggestions.
Greg

myyaz33 · Mar 18, 2017

I did verify I tapped into the rear auxiliary wire and took it to the joystick then diverter. Just put in a bullet splice near the hydraulic quick connects for removing the loader. Ground is right near the diverter on one of the screws that holds the steel hydraulic loader lines to the loader arm. No relay was used.