Diff Lock on a new Mahindra 1526

[Roger66]

I have a brand new 1526 and I was out in the snow the other day and I managed to get myself stuck, one front wheel and one rear wheel spinning. Just step on the diff lock pedal and I should be good right? Not so much, I could not get the diff lock to engage no matter what I did. I weigh about 250 and standing on the pedal, so I think I was pressing hard enough. If I attempt to move slowly, I can feel the gear teeth, but I could not get it to lock. I called the dealer and he just said that this diff lock is a common problem really difficult to operate and nothing they can do. It feels like I just don't have enough pedal travel. any Ideas?

Thanks!

 

[RNeumann]

I have a 1538 so it's the similar chassis. The pedal engages when the teeth are lined up in the rear end. So the amount of pressure hasn't been the issue. I just lightly press the forward or reverse (HST) with my foot on the diff lock and it will drop in.

 

[k0ua]

I have a brand new 1526 and I was out in the snow the other day and I managed to get myself stuck, one front wheel and one rear wheel spinning. Just step on the diff lock pedal and I should be good right? Not so much, I could not get the diff lock to engage no matter what I did. I weigh about 250 and standing on the pedal, so I think I was pressing hard enough. If I attempt to move slowly, I can feel the gear teeth, but I could not get it to lock. I called the dealer and he just said that this diff lock is a common problem really difficult to operate and nothing they can do. It feels like I just don't have enough pedal travel. any Ideas?

Thanks!

This has nothing to do with getting your differential lock to engage smoothly but were you aware of the other method of getting your other non moving rear wheel to move by using your split brakes? Just make sure the brakes are not locked together with the bar and then step on the brake (left or right) of the wheel that is spinning and apply braking pressure to slow down that wheel until the opposite wheel starts to move. This method uses the normal differential action of the tractor. This method in my opinion is easier on the gear train than the differential lock anyway. I use this method most of the time when I am stuck. Give it a try.

 

[Roger66]

This has nothing to do with getting your differential lock to engage smoothly but were you aware of the other method of getting your other non moving rear wheel to move by using your split brakes? Just make sure the brakes are not locked together with the bar and then step on the brake (left or right) of the wheel that is spinning and apply braking pressure to slow down that wheel until the opposite wheel starts to move. This method uses the normal differential action of the tractor. This method in my opinion is easier on the gear train than the differential lock anyway. I use this method most of the time when I am stuck. Give it a try.

James, thanks for the tip on the split brakes! I was aware of this feature, but I did not think to try this. It probably would have worked although I still want to solve my Diff lock problem. It appears to me that my pedal does not have enough throw. I think it's hitting the stop before it fully engages.

 

[mike69440]

I just think any diff lock is hard, but to get a Mitsubishi diff lock engaged is really tough.
I though I bucket out a path of snow to make it easier to get to our back cow shed, where we are boarding a horse now for a short time and got stuck. Got the diff lock to work, Tried using the bucket, have chains, Still stuck, my L39 came to the rescue, nice having two tractors.

 

[oldpilgrim]

My 3016 is the same machine as the 1526. The diff lock pedal travel is very little so don't expect it to move much. You are aware that you must hold the pedal down while you want lock engaged, right ? If you let it go, it will release. Just checking, as you'd be surprised what people don't know when they get a new machine.

 

[Roger66]

Mike, I only have one tractor, but 2 Jeeps,a F350 and lots of chain I certainly could have towed it out. In fact I got stuck crossing a cleared concrete walkway on an angle which cause my Right front to be off the ground completely and my left rear barely touching, perfect time for the diff lock. I got out by backing up and charging forward as fast as possible to cross the walkway. Your Max28 must have the exact same transmission as mine. Any trick for engaging the diff lock?

 

[Roger66]

My 3016 is the same machine as the 1526. The diff lock pedal travel is very little so don't expect it to move much. You are aware that you must hold the pedal down while you want lock engaged, right ? If you let it go, it will release. Just checking, as you'd be surprised what people don't know when they get a new machine.

Old Pilgrim,

Yes I'm aware I need to hold down the pedal, I was standing on it and I just could not get it to engage. Perhaps it needs to work in as it's new?

 

[Uncle Hulka]

Try applying light pressure to the diff lock while creeping the tractor forward. You'll be able to feel the lock engage. As already stated, hold the diff lock peddle down for as long as needed. When you take your foot off, it will remain engaged until you change direction (at least that's been my experience).

Don't forget, wheel brakes are your friend. There's are reasons why each rear wheel has its own peddle. When one wheel slips, it lets you transfer power to the other wheel. Much like a Positraction (limited slip) differential. It also lets you make tighter turns.

 

[oldpilgrim]

Old Pilgrim,

Yes I'm aware I need to hold down the pedal, I was standing on it and I just could not get it to engage. Perhaps it needs to work in as it's new?

Pedal travel should only be about one half inch or so. When I first got mine, I had to sometimes press the pedal and then move the tractor fwd an inch or two then back a bit and it would fall in. Don't have to do that now, it just drops in. Sorta like u have to do when changing the gear ranges. Keep in mind u should only try to engage the diff lock when you are stopped, that's why I say move the tractor only a few inches while engaging.

 

[dickfoster]

I have a brand new 1526 and I was out in the snow the other day and I managed to get myself stuck, one front wheel and one rear wheel spinning. Just step on the diff lock pedal and I should be good right? Not so much, I could not get the diff lock to engage no matter what I did. I weigh about 250 and standing on the pedal, so I think I was pressing hard enough. If I attempt to move slowly, I can feel the gear teeth, but I could not get it to lock. I called the dealer and he just said that this diff lock is a common problem really difficult to operate and nothing they can do. It feels like I just don't have enough pedal travel. any Ideas?

Thanks!

It sounds to me like your dealer sucks. Just press the pedal with the one wheel turning slowly and it should drop in. The teeth in the diff gears need to align for it to lock up. Hold the pedal down till you're unstuck then let go. If the gears are bound up it might stay locked so steering from side to side will allow it to free up.

 

[Roger66]

It sounds to me like your dealer sucks. Just press the pedal with the one wheel turning slowly and it should drop in. The teeth in the diff gears need to align for it to lock up. Hold the pedal down till you're unstuck then let go. If the gears are bound up it might stay locked so steering from side to side will allow it to free up.

All of these descriptions on how to engage are exactly what I had expected. While slowly trying to move forward standing on the pedal I can even feel the tops of the teeth sliding by, but I think my pedal is against the stop and just won't go in. There must be an adjustment. I need to clear a hole in the garage so I can get it inside and take a good look.

 

[RNeumann]

If it's like mine it does have a rod that can be adjusted. Look on the right side just in front of the axle. The linkage travels over top of the trans from left to right side.

 

[oldpilgrim]

All of these descriptions on how to engage are exactly what I had expected. While slowly trying to move forward standing on the pedal I can even feel the tops of the teeth sliding by, but I think my pedal is against the stop and just won't go in. There must be an adjustment. I need to clear a hole in the garage so I can get it inside and take a good look.

No need to stand on the pedal. Properly working, it takes very little pressure to make it work.

 

[dickfoster]

No need to stand on the pedal. Properly working, it takes very little pressure to make it work.

Force is never the answer. Don't be like my wife who is like the proverbial bull in a china shop. Fixing all the stuff she manages to break is a full time, never ending job. Dainty she ain't.

 

[Sysop]

Agreed with everyone here. You want the spinning tire rotating as slowly as possible so the lock can fully engage. Standing on the lock while spinning the tire hard isn't going to fix anything. There is only a few places throughout the rotation it will lock (some only two). It may also engage easier while rotating the spinning tire in reverse rather than forward.

If the weight of your foot and a full rotation in forward or reverse doesn't engage it, there must be something binding or out of adjustment preventing it from engaging.

Absolute worst case is dickfoster's wife (or similar) broke the lock off inside the diff.

 

[Mattt2778]

Force is never the answer. Don't be like my wife who is like the proverbial bull in a china shop. Fixing all the stuff she manages to break is a full time, never ending job. Dainty she ain't.

That's funny, sounds like my wife. For some reason I continually feel the need to remind her that the item in question did not just magically break, but that she in fact broke it, dumb on my part though as it get me nowhere.

 

[1stDeuce]

OP, if you can feel the gears popping by but not engaging, and the pedal has reached a limit of travel (Like the floor?) then it is definitely in need of adjustment.

Depending on the adjustment style, it may be possible to bend it back out of adjustment if you're mashing it when the teeth aren't lined up rather than just applying a sensible amount of pressure. (IE, just a bit more than it takes to move the pedal...)

Take a look, make an adjustment, get back to work.

 

[Dave Pee]

You can always perform a fair weather test: try to lock the diff while turning a corner. Bet it locks up just fine.

My JD annoys me, when I am dumping stuff into a hole, I need the brake so I dont fall in (think sink hole). But then to back out, I need to keep the diff locked, all with one foot to use!!

 

[k0ua]

You can always perform a fair weather test: try to lock the diff while turning a corner. Bet it locks up just fine.

My JD annoys me, when I am dumping stuff into a hole, I need the brake so I dont fall in (think sink hole). But then to back out, I need to keep the diff locked, all with one foot to use!!

This is where a hydro tractor really excels, as you get up to the slope of the hole, put your foot on the reverse pedal and hold yourself with the reverse pedal not the brake. If for some reason you need to go a bit deeper into the hole, just let off of the pressure of the reverse pedal and you will "drift" further down slowly. And if you need the differential lock to back out, then it will be under your left foot. So the two feet you were originally equipped with will suffice. One of the many reasons I like hydro transmissions.