M7060 Hyd. Toplink

[pontiacman]

I am shopping for a hydraulic top link for a Kubota M7060 and was curious what has worked for others.(size and length)
Thanks,
Scott

 

[TripleR]

For my M8540, I just emailed Fit Rite and Brian fixed me right up, I didn't have to measure anything as he has made them for many different tractors.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I am shopping for a hydraulic top link for a Kubota M7060 and was curious what has worked for others.(size and length)
Thanks,
Scott

Scott, I typically sell a 20 1/4"- 29 1/4" working length for your model of tractor. That's a 3" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod as seen in the picture.

When shopping, keep in mind that the tractor end is a cat 1 pin size.

 

[whirly]

.... When shopping, keep in mind that the tractor end is a cat 1 pin size.

I had that problem when taking the Hyd top link off my old fordson for my new MX5100. The Spacing for the toplink mount on the MX was just over 1.75" but the top link was 2". The spec for cat 1 & 3 top links are 1.75" but the spec for cat 2 is 2" ... Go figure.

I shaved 1/8th off both sides and use a bushing and all is well now.

 

[oosik]

I went with Fit Rite on my M6040 and its a perfect fit and works like a dream.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I had that problem when taking the Hyd top link off my old fordson for my new MX5100. The Spacing for the toplink mount on the MX was just over 1.75" but the top link was 2". The spec for cat 1 & 3 top links are 1.75" but the spec for cat 2 is 2" ... Go figure.

I shaved 1/8th off both sides and use a bushing and all is well now.

Not quite sure where you're getting cat 3 to be 1 3/4" wide?:confused2: All of my cat 3 parts are 2" wide.

 

[whirly]

Not quite sure where you're getting cat 3 to be 1 3/4" wide?:confused2: All of my cat 3 parts are 2" wide.

When I had this problem I went out and found a page that listed the TL ball widths. Just looked at the first one and went from there. So now that you raised the certainty that I was wrong, I did a more thorough search and confirmed I was ABSOLUTELY WRONG. Thanks for correcting my error.:drink:

 

[JWR]

The hydraulic top link is one of the handiest accessories I have picked up. Not cheap -- mine was around $325 plus connectors,etc. My use is on a MF2660 81 horse tractor, . My hole-to-hole length of the cylinder is 29 1/2 inches when adjusted for use with my bush hog. I ordered mine thru the tractor dealer and do not even know what brand it is. HD is good of course. There are a couple of points that I recommend you check beyond the seller's advice/experience. 1) Measure the minimum you need for pin-to-pin length (fully collapsed.) That puts an upper limit on lifting anything with it but a more subtle thing is that it also sets a maximum on the length stroke you can have with the cylinder. A cylinder can only extend something less than it's length. 2) Get the max you can get in stroke length, limited by your required minimum length. That really sets the limits on flexibility you gain with the hyd top link. My impression is that there are many good ones one the market. There is no rocket science or high tech stuff involved. Just good quality hydraulic cylinders capable of standing the load and your usage. The tougher the better. I have used mine several seasons as top link during bush hogging with a 1460 lb hog and never a problem.
They are really more than handy, I call it necessity, when using a scraper box with teeth -- keeps you from being on and off the seat 20 times per job.

 

[ovrszd]

I built my Kubota setup.

I bought a top link for my Ford.

Not sure of Brian's prices so not going to state anything.

Check Surplus Center (Surplus Center), they have CAT I and CAT II top links.

I use a bushing on my Kubota to convert the tractor end to CAT II. Then I can use it on either tractor.

Easy to convert "up". Impossible to convert "down".

 

[ovrszd]

They are really more than handy, I call it necessity, when using a scraper box with teeth -- keeps you from being on and off the seat 20 times per job.

Yep. I use mine just as much carrying my 3pt mounted brush cutter. Works great for drooping down a bank or up against an upward slope.

 

[Xfaxman]

Yep, almost a necessity with forks or a forklift.

Pictures from back when I had a tractor.

 

[pontiacman]

Thanks all! Lots of good info.

 

[sixdogs]

XFAXMAN--I like those pictures. Yet another thing to do with my forks and I need some concrete walks replaced. Forks would work perfect.

 

[sixdogs]

I have an M7040 and wonder if a hydraulic toplink would work for heavier applications like tillage where there is a lot of pushing and pulling on the implement? I don't want leakdown where I would constantly have to adjust the link. Once you set the hyd link, does it stay put?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I have an M7040 and wonder if a hydraulic toplink would work for heavier applications like tillage where there is a lot of pushing and pulling on the implement? I don't want leakdown where I would constantly have to adjust the link. Once you set the hyd link, does it stay put?

Typically, and the M series tractors have a good quality valve. But if you ever just have to 100% be sure that it never moves such as a manual link, just unplug the rod end coupler. It also helps a lot to have a properly sized (diameter) unit for your tractor. I normally recommend a 3" dia unit for the M series.

 

[JWR]

I have an M7040 and wonder if a hydraulic toplink would work for heavier applications like tillage where there is a lot of pushing and pulling on the implement? I don't want leakdown where I would constantly have to adjust the link. Once you set the hyd link, does it stay put?

Mine stays put extremely well and that is with a 1460 lb hog hung out on pretty long leverage. I have never had to adjust it to account for leakdown. I have no doubt as it ages, eventually all hydraulic cylinders will leak down but so far, no. One thing you have going for you is that the top link does not have to go thru anywhere near the number of in/out cycles that other cylinders do (like a front end loader cylinder, etc.) and thus the seals are not worn as quickly. For that reason, if you buy a good one to start with, you will probably never have the problem.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Mine stays put extremely well and that is with a 1460 lb hog hung out on pretty long leverage. I have never had to adjust it to account for leakdown. I have no doubt as it ages, eventually all hydraulic cylinders will leak down but so far, no. One thing you have going for you is that the top link does not have to go thru anywhere near the number of in/out cycles that other cylinders do (like a front end loader cylinder, etc.) and thus the seals are not worn as quickly. For that reason, if you buy a good one to start with, you will probably never have the problem.

I would say that the vast majority of hydraulic top link problems talked about here on TBN are a direct result of poor quality valves.

There are several ways to deal with the problem, but none the less the problem is the control valve.

 

[murse72]

you might want to make sure you have clearance on the tractor side of the top like. i got one with cat 2 balls on both ends. the factory had cat 1 on tractor side and cat 2 on the other. i figured i could put a bushing on the tractor end. there was not enough clearance between the ball and the back of the tractor unless i put it in there lowest hole on the tractor side. my fix was to cut the ball off and put a knuckle there instead and no clearance problems now

 

[sixdogs]

murse72--Good advice. Thank you.

 

[ovrszd]

Six, you can add a lock valve to the cylinder, but you lose float.